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94 Legacy Wagon Starting problems

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I have seen info on this problem before, but no solution. Here is what I have. Occasionally when switching the key to start, I get nothing. The lights and all electrical items work, but no turn over. The only way I can get it to start, at that point, is to wait a while, or jumper the starter solenoid from the battery. I found that jumping schematic in another thread. I use to think it was only when the car was hot, but it has done it in the morning while im trying to leave for work. Anyone have any ideas or solutions? Thanks

When you say you "get nothing," do you hear the solenoid click?

  • Author

Olnick- No solenoid click at all.

 

tcspeer- Yeah, I cleaned the terminal posts and replaced the terminals clamps.

Did you check the other end of the cables also? To make sure they are tight and clean.

 

After rereading your post, if you are able to jump it from the starter I dont think it would be a battery or cable problem.

 

Most likely a new starter would fix it, most auto parts stores can check them if you take it off and carry it in.

  • Author
Did you check the other end of the cables also? To make sure they are tight and clean.

 

After rereading your post, if you are able to jump it from the starter I dont think it would be a battery or cable problem.

 

Most likely a new starter would fix it, most auto parts stores can check them if you take it off and carry it in.

 

I thought that if I could start it by jumping the solenoid that the starter was good, I may be understanding that wrong. I may just have to pull the starter and have it looked at. Thanks for the posts.

If the car fires right off when you jumper juice to the solenoid contacts, then the starter is okay. Can you provide a link to that schematic you mentioned?

 

Is the problem random--sometimes it turns over, sometimes it doesn't?

 

Sounds like there's an intermittent break in the circuit feeding the starter's solenoid. Possibly a bad ignition switch? Bad electrical connection at the starter maybe?

 

All I can think of is checking the wiring & connectors.

 

Good luck.

Worn starter solenoid contacts are most likely the culprit. They're not expensive (somewhere in the vicinity of $20, for a kit that also includes the plunger), and they're easy to replace once you get the starter out. The extra work over simply installing a rebuilt starter is negligible.

Worn starter solenoid contacts are most likely the culprit. They're not expensive (somewhere in the vicinity of $20, for a kit that also includes the plunger), and they're easy to replace once you get the starter out. The extra work over simply installing a rebuilt starter is negligible.

 

i agree, it's most likely the contacts in the starter. replacing them will likely cure the problem.

 

but since jumping power from the battery to the solenoid starts it why not add a relay . that's what i did. there are a couple of good write ups.

 

basically you disconnect the small wire from the starter solenoid and connect it to the new relay. then you run a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. and finally you run a new ''fused'' power supply wire from the battery to the relay. (you probably will also need to run a ground from the relay to the car body.)

 

now when you turn the key you activate the new relay which switches power directly from the battery to the starter solenoid.

 

this worked for me 6 years ago and is still working. i never replaced the contacts and never removed the starter.

Worn starter solenoid contacts are most likely the culprit.

 

That was my first thought too. But 1) solenoid doesn't activate when he turns the key, and 2) starter works when he jumps power to it.

That was my first thought too. But 1) solenoid doesn't activate when he turns the key, and 2) starter works when he jumps power to it.

 

it's the contacts in the solenoid. they are maybe old, worn, scorched, and the electricity is not strong enough to jump the gap. wiring power straight from the battery is stronger and over comes the gap and any wear and tear on the contacts. new contacts does the same thing, improves the connection in the solenoid. the solenoid activates and then the starter.

Your problem is probably the clutch pedal switch or, less likely, the starter relay. The car is manual tranny, right?

 

If you don't feel up to tackling it yourself, suggest you find a local independent mechanic. Parts & labor shouldn't be too wildly expensive.

 

Where is Simpsonville?

  • Author

Olnick- This is a used car I bought a few months back. It is a manual tranny. I suspected the clutch relay before, checked it but its already jumped. Lol. I am wondering about the start control relay but haven't checked it yet. I would like to do the work myself if possible, but I know my limits.

 

Simpsonville is in South Carolina.

it's the contacts in the solenoid. they are maybe old, worn, scorched, and the electricity is not strong enough to jump the gap. wiring power straight from the battery is stronger and over comes the gap and any wear and tear on the contacts. new contacts does the same thing, improves the connection in the solenoid. the solenoid activates and then the starter.

 

As I said, johnc, that was my first thought too. Would be the most logical explanation and a relatively easy fix.

 

But I can only go by what the OP describes: the solenoid does NOT activate (he hears no click), therefore the contacts never come together to close the starter circuit.

 

When he jumps power to the solenoid connector the contacts close and the starter turns.

 

It appears the contacts are doing their job just fine, but the solenoid circuit isn't working properly.

i agree, it's most likely the contacts in the starter. replacing them will likely cure the problem.

 

but since jumping power from the battery to the solenoid starts it why not add a relay . that's what i did. there are a couple of good write ups.

 

basically you disconnect the small wire from the starter solenoid and connect it to the new relay. then you run a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. and finally you run a new ''fused'' power supply wire from the battery to the relay. (you probably will also need to run a ground from the relay to the car body.)

 

now when you turn the key you activate the new relay which switches power directly from the battery to the starter solenoid.

 

this worked for me 6 years ago and is still working. i never replaced the contacts and never removed the starter.

I did this fix to my SVX and it made my starter work a lot better.

 

I was suffering from "sometimes-no-start" problems and tried this relay fix before realizing that the bolt holding the positive lead to the starter had backed off :rolleyes:

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Just an update, I installed a relay and there has been no more starting problems. Probably will look in to a rebuild kit for the starter some time as well.

I have to do this on my '95. Can someone specify the relay they used. The amp rating on the connected side must be quite a bit higher then a normal relay.

  • Author

I used a 40 amp. The bigger the better I would think. 40 is the biggest I could find without ordering one, but it works

any generic ''head light'' relay will work, 20amp?. it's not really carrying a lot of juice. but of course bigger is better.

Edited by johnceggleston

Let me tell you all that the problem will be the ignition switch behind the key cylinder. This is general common knowledge with those experienced in subarus. This is easily accessible and replaceable by removing the steering column covers.

 

This is common in all subarus, mainly automatics, and is also common with the nissan/subaru keysets. The contacts inside the switch get bad, and do not send the voltage to the starter solenoid.

 

the starter and or solenoids rarely fail. Unless you pull minute long cranks in vain trying to start a car with no fuel!

 

If your jumper wire is working, then you can eliminate the starter as the culprit. I would be disappointed for someone to buy a new starter and still have the problem.

 

The small tab on the back of the starter is a low draw, so all you need is 18 ga wire and a pushbutto switch, and a fuse if you like. You can take off power from the fuse panel to the button, and then out to the starter.

 

My car does this, and it will eventually start if i rattle the key enough.

 

You can, if you wish, tie into the key switch and run the starter on a relay. any standard relay will work. You can use one that goes to fog light kits at auto stores, or even salvage a subaru relay and its connecotor to build a circuit.

 

you can defeat the neutral switch by jumping the 2 largest wires on the shifter harness.

 

Good luck, i hope my information is helpful in your case.

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