87.5ea82txt Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 I've replaced most of the hoses under the hood, trying to keep up with all the leaks and my constant filling of the radiator. I thought I was done fixing leaks, then......Dun. Dun. Duuuuun.....Now I have coolant running down the front left side of the engine at the seam of the head gasket. From what I can tell, it doesn't look oily, and gooey. Does the water pump sit right above this area? I'm guessing the fan pulley is it? What's a quick and easy way to tell where it is coming from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATCHY Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 I Just had the same issue. Wondwring were my coolant was going. Water pump slow leaked and heater hose at the back of the firewall was a little loose. . Is Your vehicle running.g hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 27, 2011 Author Share Posted April 27, 2011 I blew one of those heater hoses last week and the temperature gauge maxed out fast, but only a minute or two had passed since I had last looked at the temperature and it was normal then. I shut it down, pulled over, and topped off the radiator with the container of coolant I keep in the trunk for just this purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 27, 2011 Author Share Posted April 27, 2011 Normally yes, it does run cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 27, 2011 Author Share Posted April 27, 2011 I'm starting to think it is more like another hose....maybe manifold gasket? I'm going to go investigate some more. I just read I'm not supposed to put cold water in a hot engine. OOPS! Won't do that again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 27, 2011 Author Share Posted April 27, 2011 O.K. I don't see any water from above or from the metal line to the water pump. The water flows fast down the engine. It must be the water pump. So, I may as well replace the timing belt, oil pump, and all that other fun stuff then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATCHY Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 You can see the water pump if its going bad, just watch it while the car is running it will drip water slowly from the hole on the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 It's hard to see down there until I pull the fan off to see for sure, I'm banking on it being the water pump. I'm toying with the idea of using an electric fan instead of the belt driven one. If anyone has a left side ea81 fan, I would gladly take it off their hands. Speaking of which, I'm trying to figure outwhy my secondary never kicks on. I cleaned the connectors for the fan, the coolant temp sensor connectors(I only saw one sensor on the right side of the radiator), and swapped the connectors on the wheel well, and no fan. The ac kicks on when the connectors are swapped, regardless. Am I missing something? Bad fan motor? It worked when I first got the car, but quit shortly after, just like every other piece of electronics on this car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 (edited) I cleaned the connectors on the coolant temp sensor last week. They were by far the greenest, nastiest connectors I've had the joy of coming across. For the first time, the car actually was driveable when started cold. I took the fat white plug apart and sprayed some MAF cleaner in it, as well as the fan connectors on the blue and yellow wires. They weren't too bad. I tested 13v on the blue and 3v on the yellow. Or maybe it was the other way around, but there was a 10v drop across them. There is also a brown connector with a wire jumping it. What's up with that? Oh yeah, and the fuse by the two relays on the fender is for the 4wd correct? Edited April 28, 2011 by 87.5ea82txt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 I went out and tested it again, this time I pulled the spade connectors apart. there is battery voltage to and from the fan. voltage at the CTS. I swapped the two relays on the fender. ac kicks on with either, but still no fan. I jumped the fan and it does work. Where do I test now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennyt Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 Bummer about the leak! If you're looking for a second fan, I mounted one of these, it's nice and low-profile. Clears the water pump studs by 1/2". You need to make a custom bracket out of angle aluminum, or I guess you could try your luck with the plastic through-radiator stuff that comes with the kit... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4901/ I wired it up to a toggle switch on the dash, direct, it only draws 6.8A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 if you want to diagnose it, you can remove the timing belt covers and drive it without them so you can more easily spot a water pump leak. i don't have timing covers installed on 2 of my daily driver subaru's. intake manifolds have a coolant passage running through them, so the intake manifold gaskets have intake air passages and coolant passages - they can leak too. they can leak coolant into the cylinders or externally onto the block. some of the aftermarket intake manifold gaskets are really flimsy and cheap, i'd use Subaru gaskets for those. the ebay timing belt kits are only $60 or something cheap for EA82's - all new pulleys, tensioners, belts, good deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 Dont forget about the mess of coolant hoses running around the spider intake. It would be worth your time to pull the inteka and replace avery hose, and the intake gaskets. Make sure you are not using fuel line for the coolant hoses, as they will not hold up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 Bummer about the leak! If you're looking for a second fan, I mounted one of these, it's nice and low-profile. Clears the water pump studs by 1/2". You need to make a custom bracket out of angle aluminum, or I guess you could try your luck with the plastic through-radiator stuff that comes with the kit...http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4901/ I wired it up to a toggle switch on the dash, direct, it only draws 6.8A Nice! I'm looking at possibly getting an ea81 fan if the price is right. What is the depth on the ea81 fan and will it be a direct fit? There are other holes on the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 (edited) double post Edited April 28, 2011 by 87.5ea82txt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 if you want to diagnose it, you can remove the timing belt covers and drive it without them so you can more easily spot a water pump leak. i don't have timing covers installed on 2 of my daily driver subaru's. I'll do that. Even if I don't replace them now, I want to see how they look. I have had the fan off once before and replaced one of the idler pulley bearings. Electric has always been an afterthought until the recent gouging in gas prices. The only hose I have needed to replace around the spider was the small one from the the thermostat to the block. The vacuum hoses all seem fairly flexible and uncracked. I've replaced turbo coolant hose. Had to remove the turbo to get to it, but I clocked the compressor to match the inlet angle of the intercooler while I had it off. I replaced both radiator hoses, heater hoses to the firewall. and....I'm thinking there was another one....Anyways, thats what hoses I replaced thus far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 29, 2011 Author Share Posted April 29, 2011 Sweet! got an ea81 fan coming from pooparu. It's electric.. boogie woogie woogie:banana: Says he has about 20 of them. I figure, if it saves me money on gas and pays for itself, it's woth it. Now just to figure out how to wire it and the passenger side up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 29, 2011 Author Share Posted April 29, 2011 "the electric fan is ONLY wired through the thermoswitch in the radiator. it is unaffected by the A/C system. So, the only way to insure airflow when the A/C system is on without re-wiring the car is have a fan that runs all the time." Well that explains why the electric fan doen't kick on when the ac is turned on. I thought maybe I was just low on refrigerant. That still doesn't explain why the fan has not kicked in at temperature and why the car is running better cold since I cleaned the connections to the coolant temp sensor. It is for BOTH is it not? or am I just crazy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 29, 2011 Author Share Posted April 29, 2011 I think what I will do is power the left side fan torun all the time by splicing after the right side and run the coolant temp sensor to ground(assuming it is working properly) to kick on the right when it gets hot. I don't see the need for ac control with this type of setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 (edited) Sorry, Double post again. Edited April 30, 2011 by 87.5ea82txt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 So I was looking in my service manual, and for the xt, it had shown the wiring diagram for the coolant temperature sensor as running from fusebox> relay> fan> ground. This can't be right if I have power coming from the fan. It also shows that the circuit from the relay makes it's way back to the computer on the xt6 model. Now, I'm not so sure if this cts has control over the computer on my 87.5. The other coolant temp sensor on the thermostat housing has one wire coming from it. I just assumed that was only for the gauge on the digidash. Does anyone know the answers to this, or where I could find a wiring diagram so I can diagnose this? I'm away from my car right now, but I'll be pulling the cts sensor and testing it hot water to rule it out. I may also experiment with disconnecting it while the car is running cold to see if it runs any different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 for the fan, there is a thermo switch in the radiator. The wire going to it is hot all the time. once the thermoswitch warms up, it closes, and trips the relay for the fan. the thermoswitch completes a path to ground when it closes. you can test this by simply unplugging the thermoswitch and jumping the terminal. the single wire one on the thermostat housing is for the gauge. The coolant temp sensor, for the ecu, is located at the back of the intake near the turbo, and has a clip shaped like the ones on the injecotors. this can cause warm running issues when it is bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 Awesome tip. Thank you, Miles. So when wiring up the the new fan, I can splice the power from the passenger side fan so it runs when the key is on. Then, if the coolant temp sensor in the radiator works, but a fault exists downstream, I can run it to the same ground as the new fan. That would make things very simple and easy to diagnose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 you can simply wire a switch in place of the thermo switch at the radiator and turn the fan on any time. if the switch is hoked up in parallel to the thermo switch, you can manually override it on when its not on, but it would come on naturally if you forgot to flip the switch. this way you are not hacking up the cars original circuitry. And anytime you got people hardwiring their fans because they dont come on, its only because they dont understand the thermoswitch or its curcuit to complete ground. It's very simple to do, as long as you are aware of how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 The wire going to it is hot all the time. once the thermoswitch warms up, it closes, and trips the relay for the fan. Where can I find this relay? Your right, running the fan amperage through the CTS would probably not be ideal. Good tip on the back up switch. I'll make sure to install one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.