I've been running 75w-90 full synthetic in mine. It cured the cold second gear crunch I was getting with 80w90. I can't say if the synthetic oil has helped the trans any. It has developed some other issues during the time the synthetic has been in service. But it doesn't crunch going into second gear anymore.

I've been running 75w-90 full synthetic in mine. It cured the cold second gear crunch I was getting with 80w90. I can't say if the synthetic oil has helped the trans any. It has developed some other issues during the time the synthetic has been in service. But it doesn't crunch going into second gear anymore.

 

What do you think about the Subaru Extra S fluid? Would you recommend anything else over it?

What do you think about the Subaru Extra S fluid? Would you recommend anything else over it?

 

Never heard of it. I might have to look into it.

speaking about that heavy flywheel in the EJ25.. wow I thought I stalled my car in traffic yesterday just as the light turned green wow the tach went all the way down to zero 0 and I was like aww ^&%$^&$ and I went to go put in in neutral and reach for the key but it had enough momentum and the tach jumped back up to idle.

 

I was like damn that would never happen with the EJ22 flywheel.

How much does a stock Ej25 flywheel weigh?

 

Does 20-23 lbs sound about right?

Edited August 6, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4

I could drag my spare one to the bathroom scale and see. It's a heavy bastard.

Well it came early today but Fedex dropped it off on the wrong floor.

 

 

What I'm trying to do is when I do take it off how to keep the flywheel from turning.. As you know everything Subaru is always a special tool so I'm sure someone here as thought of something to keep it from turning?

Edited August 6, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4

Bolt a box-wrench to the flywheel using one of the PP bolts - jam the open end of the wrench around the lower bell-housing stud. This will keep it from turning.

 

GD

Jam a flathead screwdriver between the starter ring gear teeth and the bellhousing in one of the narrow spots. It will wedge and let you get the bolts loose or tight.

 

Or just use an impact gun... and "torque it to spec"

 

Make sure the pilot bearing is in far enough and in flat.

Thanks GD

 

 

and and impact gun to the FW bolts lol... I do have a Tq wrench and from what I can see and heard the FW bolts can round easy.. at least that's what I heard.. I wont get to see for myself until the weekend next week

Thanks GD

 

 

and and impact gun to the FW bolts lol... I do have a Tq wrench and from what I can see and heard the FW bolts can round easy.. at least that's what I heard.. I wont get to see for myself until the weekend next week

 

The bolts have shallow heads on them, so you need a good socket to get enough engagement with them to work well.

 

I've never had a problem with an impact on them. They're quality bolts going into forged steel, so you can get pretty agressive on the torque without hurting them.

 

Torquing them is recommended of course.

The bolts have shallow heads on them, so you need a good socket to get enough engagement with them to work well.

 

I've never had a problem with an impact on them. They're quality bolts going into forged steel, so you can get pretty agressive on the torque without hurting them.

 

Torquing them is recommended of course.

 

Do you happen to know the size of the bolts? They look to be around 11-12mm?

The bolts are 14mm head. 10mm thread but a very fine machine thread - probably 10mm x 1.0

 

I always remove them with an impact - never rounded a head off but recently I was pulling the flywheel off an EJ engine and my 1/2" impact snapped the heads right off 4 of them. Never seen that before - I decided to discard all of them just to be safe - I know they are very hard bolts but I talked with some friends of mine and we agreed that this shouldn't happen and they were likely either over-torqued or from a bad batch of bolts.

 

GD

hmm interesting they are like grade 10 bolts or something like that right?