Is there any magic bullet for an EA-81 exhaust manifold gasket? I blow them out in ~1,000 miles, and obviously it's not hard to replace, but crikey, I'm at it again.

 

The NAPA exhaust-gasket-bonded O-rings didn't even really fit, IMO, and blew out in a few days. The one thing that has had some limited success (though now blown out at 1,100 miles) was hi-temp gasket material, and Perma-Glue hi-temp 'gasket maker.'

 

I'm tempted to try and find a real donut, with bevelled edges on both sides, I'll just have to remember to dig out my caliper to measure the ID of the pipe.

 

Ideers?

 

J

Check the flatness of the flanges on the y-pipe and the flatness on the bottom of the heads.

Check the flatness of the flanges on the y-pipe and the flatness on the bottom of the heads.

+1

 

subaru exhaust gaskets tend to be higher quality in EA82, ER, and EJ stuff, i wonder if EA81 Subaru gaskets may be better too?

Its more the fact that napa gaskets are crap. They are just the sheet of metal with the paper stuff inbetween. If you get gaskets from napa for your subaru tell them you have a 88 or there abouts TURBO subaru. The gaskets you get cost a bit more but are much much better quality. Ive actually reused my gaskets a few times because they were that good.

Its more the fact that napa gaskets are crap. They are just the sheet of metal with the paper stuff inbetween. If you get gaskets from napa for your subaru tell them you have a 88 or there abouts TURBO subaru. The gaskets you get cost a bit more but are much much better quality. Ive actually reused my gaskets a few times because they were that good.

 

This is not related to NAPA, this is related to fel-pro. Napa carries BOSAL parts, and have always had the right gasket for me, real metal ones.

 

Bosal gaskets for one, but more importantly, new exhaust studs, you can find them in the 'HELP' brand at most auto stores. There is one kit with a pair, get 2. Otherwise, if that is not there, you can get the GM/Toyota (corolla/prism) manifold set, which has 3 studs and 2 bolts.

 

You will not hold torque ising bolts or old studs. If your old stud had the nut come off with the stud, you are no good. Properly, the stud should go in first, and as the nut goes on, it holds the torque. The stud itself should not bottom out and take torque against the threads, but be in the thread where the nut takes the torque.

 

Your magic bullet is new studs. m12x1.25

Your magic bullet is new studs. m12x1.25

 

REALLY? I'll be buggered. OK, at least one of the studs is quasi-bonded to a nut, so I guess I'll go buy new studs.

 

Do you recommend stainless?

 

J

How are the exhaust system hangers? The system works, but if one or more hangers are broken or missing it puts added stress on an already weak design. Seal it good again using Car-Quest gaskets, Dealer gaskets, whatever, make sure all the studs and threads are in good shape and the pipe can't move around more than it's suppose to and it will last a LONG time. Also use anti-seeze on the threads and re-torque them after a couple heat/cool cycles.