putertopia Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I did a timing belt job in my 92 Legacy about 5,000 miles ago. Funny thing is that I had to do it because the timing belt was done 5,000 mi before that by an incompetent mechanic who ripped the threads out of an idler pulley for timing belt. Evidently, I did not tighten the crank pulley to 140 ft lbs as specified because my woodruff is toast, as well as the inside of my crank pulley. Got it all out, looks like I can just slap a new woodruff and a crank pulley on and I'm good to go. Problem is, the cheapest pulley I can find new is $140 and used is $75. Now I know there's gotta be more used parts out there that would be cheaper, half the problem is the junk yards around here typically just crush cars like mine when they come in (or so they say). I'm setting out tomorrow in search of more junkyards to find a crank pulley, buttt what stops me from using this pulley? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harmonic-Balancer-Crank-Shaft-Pulley-/230614106607?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b1ac01ef It says not compatible for my year... I can't imagine they changed a crank pulley between years like that though and I've seen others for sale that are for a 90-99 model? Any of you who have been through this have any input? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 2 things. http://www.car-part.com , they may not list the part but if you call a yard that has an engine "core" for parts you should be able to find one. all crank pulleys, harmonic balancers, from ej engines 90 - 99 are the same. or at least interchangeable. (the bolt on the ej25 is not as visible and the bolt on the ej22 . i think it is recessed more. but the pulley will work. i think they lightened it by thinning out the base plate. but i'm not sure. i am sure that the outside dimensions are EXACTLY the same.) some one here should have one off of a bad ej25 for a good price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 I'd get one that's made for an Ej22. They may be the same in appearance and fitment but the weight or balance may be slightly different. This can cause internal issues. The harmonic balancer is designed to absorb crankshaft vibrations caused by the various sources of movement associated with the engine. Changing the way the crank is balanced and weighted can amplify some of those vibrations and cause bearing damage, cracks due to metal fatigue, and overall excessive wear of the internals. Best to stick with the right part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 i'll ship you one for $25. PM or email me. Quick if you want it shipped by tomorrow as i'm leaving soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
putertopia Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Another thing that threw me off is that I was under the influence that these engines are internally balanced. While the crank pulley is balanced to maintain the balance in itself, a more correct term would be crank pulley rather than harmonic balancer, correct? Are 2.5s also internally balanced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 oh man, a simple question goes the way of debate...here it comes! parts are independently balanced and this is hardly a concern. folks shave flywheels, use different crank pulleys, one piece, aluminum, use varying tensions on the belts, pistons get carbon build up (effectively changing momentum, etc) etc. i've seen folks weld a failed crank pulley together when it separate from the inner rubber ring....obviously WAY off balance... they're not as sensitive as one could make it sound semantically. this isn't rocket science. if they were that sensitive then engines would be blowing up in the northeast due to the change in balance due to rusting of the pulley!! i have an aluminum one piece pulley on mine and plan on keeping it until 300,000 miles, i'm sure the pulley isn't going to stop me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 To add to this, ANY EJ series crank pulley will bolt right on, and work just fine. There are two different styles, the difference is the holding tool used on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
putertopia Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Yeah lol not like I'm takin her up to 6k constantly, maybe 5 for the short ramps on the highways but certainly not 6, that's what the stang is for B-). However, travel would not be possible in the winter without this car so even though I got it cheap, I would still like run well for as long as possible. At 235k it runs well, little hesitant at times, but not enough to convince me to investigate into it. Anyhow, the e-bay auction is for a pulley for an EJ motor right? Either the EJ22 or EJ25. I'm about to pick that up if so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 on that auction, guess you're going by part number? i clicked on the link and it says nothing about Subaru, model, or engine. guess if the part number is right i'd give that number a call and ask. no wonder it's so cheap - the listing is terrible so when demand is zero - supply/demand curve kicks in to your favor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 (edited) Just FYI, same car two balancers, different prices. Aftermarket is quite a bit cheaper. : Harmonic Balancer Price DORMAN Part # 594129 {#12305AA242} Double Serpentine Belt; Diameter; 5-11/32"; Width: 1-15/16"; Weight (lbs.): 4.8 Auto Trans $31.79 DORMAN Part # 594166 {#12305AA251} Double Serpentine Belt; Diameter; 5.24"; Width: 1.95"; Weight (lbs.): 5.65 Manual Trans $54.99 SUBARU BAJA H4 - 2.5L (2458 cc) 2006-03 - 594-166 FORESTER H4 - 2.5L (2458 cc) 2006-00 - 594-166 H4 - 2.5L (2458 cc) 1999 From 5/99 594-166 IMPREZA H4 - 2.5L (2458 cc) 2006-99 - 594-166 L4 - 2.0L (1994 cc) 2005-02 - 594-129 L4 - 2.2L (2212 cc) 2001-99 - 594-129 LEGACY H4 - 2.2L (2212 cc) 1999-97 - 594-175 H4 - 2.2L (2212 cc) 1996 Code P (9th Digit of Model Plate) 594-175 H4 - 2.5L (2458 cc) 2006-00 - 594-166 H4 - 2.5L (2458 cc) 1996 Code P (9th Digit of Model Plate) 594-175 LEGACY OUTBACK H4 - 2.2L (2212 cc) 1996 Code P (9th Digit of Model Plate) 594-175 H4 - 2.5L (2458 cc) 1996 Code P (9th Digit of Model Plate) 594-175 OUTBACK H4 - 2.5L (2458 cc) 2006-01 - 594-166 Edited May 6, 2011 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 The 2.5 pulleys are the same as the 2.2's, but they have an extra weight donut pressed into the middle of the hub. That's why the crank bolt is down in a hole instead of exposed. Any ej pulley will fit, it's not like fords with 28 or 50oz imbalances. If the pulley and keyway are trashed, you need to replace the crank bolt and the timing belt sprocket too. The surface of the head of the bolt and the front surface of the sprocket have to be flat to properly clamp the crank pulley. The power to the pulley isn't put through the key, it's only for allignment. The static friction between the surfaces mentioned is what transmits the power. So they have to be flush and smooth. You can toss another pulley on and crank the bolt down, but chances are it will come loose again if you don't replace the bolt and sproket too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
putertopia Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 Hey guys, Just wanted to let you know I got this solved. I called four junkyards in the area on Friday, nobody had an ej22 pulley. I didn't call the one nearest because they're usually known for their domestics. Decided to call them yesterday and they had a 'lightly chipped' pulley from a 94 leg for $20. Stopped by, the chips are barely anything and I don't think I'll have a problem with it so I picked it up. Picked up a 3/16" x 5/8" woodruff key from the local Fastenal. It's all back together, made sure I used loctite this time too lol. Thought I did last time but there was no blue on the crank bolt. Also cleaned up the mating surfaces between the crank pulley and the crank timing sprocket. I think I'll be set this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushrod20 Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 i'll ship you one for $25. PM or email me. Quick if you want it shipped by tomorrow as i'm leaving soon. Just joined, do you have a crankshaft pulley for a 1995 Subaru Legacy L 2.2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Just joined, do you have a crankshaft pulley for a 1995 Subaru Legacy L 2.2? gary probably does have one but if he doesn't some one else will. if you click on gary's name to the left (or above) of his last post you should be given the opportunity to send him a Private Message. that will alert him . and or you can post a ''wanted'' ad here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=37 welcome to the party. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 here is what i did with my 2.2 in my 93 legacy. i got a damper froma 1.8 imprza and use dit. it slooked exactly the same except for the timing mark was in a different place. so i t took muy angle grinder and made a quick grind mark onthe pull in the correct location for my timing mark. i then uesd white out to paint the new mark. the thing about dampers vs baalncers. is a damper onyl dampens crankshaft vibrations on internally balanced engines. a balancer is a balancer and is used to externally balance and engine. a flywheel may also be used to help balance an engine with a crank balancer. and or the flywheel can do it all too. you can usually tell a balancer will have the soild part as half of it there and half of it not there. and or may even have holes drilled into the solid part of the balancer. a damper is just one piece of steel then the rubber and then the pulley around the rubber. if the rubber becomes dried and cracked it can let the pull slip and show the engine out of time when it isnt. enough about that. i hope this helps you get a new damper for your engine. i am going to have my damper welded and turned so i can reuse it if needed some day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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