I have visited both the Thule and Yakima web sites and found them useless. I also attempted to do a search here but have been suffering a lot of generic data base errors - so I decided to just ask.

 

I need a flat rack system to replace the stock curved ones so that I can use the car to transport lumber. It will mostly by studs but may also involve other items. The stock rounded rails do not give me a that warm fuzzy felling when I think about staking wood on it. I am also hoping to find used bars that will replace the factory bars. Which ones will work on my car?

 

Steve

I have a Thule rack for a 96 Outback. I use the LB 50 bars and foot pack 1054. I bought the feet second hand so not sure if that is the current model #. I leave the factory cross bars on because the Thule rack fits around them and I can't see taking them off to then have to store them somewhere. I don't know if the 2000 model roof is radically different, but maybe this helps. I found the Thule site fine. My rack came from another vehicle that I had used the gutter feet for. Traded in the gutter pack for my current set up.

I suggest you attach a flat of plywood or composite board, or whatever flat piece you have lying around on top of the existing roof rack. Affix the flat board with bungy straps. I have been amazed of the holding strength of multiple bungy straps to hold things in place. Then lay your lumber on the flat board, and bungy that load in place. The whole thing will look red neck, but transporting wood on top of your Outback would never be a pretty sight no matter what.

on a side note similar to the above post.

 

when hauling lumber on a ''car top'' the single biggest limiting factor is the length of the cross bars, not the width. if the crossbars are 30 inches apart, (2.5 ft.) it is really difficult to carry anything of much weight that is more than 8 or 10 feet long. the base is so small that the weight gets top heavy and squirrelly in a hurry. 12 feet is out of the question.

 

if you are serious about carrying lumber, more than a few pieces, design and build a rack inside where the base can be longer than 30 inches, maybe as much as 6 feet, with the excess extending out of the open rear hatch, like a pick up.

 

just my opinion.

 

ps: i carried all sorts of building construction materials on top of my 90 nissan pick up w/ truck cap and ''reinforced ladder rack'' for 15 years. never had a failure or lost a load.

 

plan ahead.

 

and good luck.

Interesting idea. How about something that can slip into the hitch, have a bar up to "T". Add a couple of pieces of flat steel on the end of the "T" to lock the load in place. And, finally add two flat straps to lock to the rear cross bar.

 

Thanks for the inspiration.

 

Steve

 

 

 

on a side note similar to the above post.

 

when hauling lumber on a ''car top'' the single biggest limiting factor is the length of the cross bars, not the width. if the crossbars are 30 inches apart, (2.5 ft.) it is really difficult to carry anything of much weight that is more than 8 or 10 feet long. the base is so small that the weight gets top heavy and squirrelly in a hurry. 12 feet is out of the question.

 

if you are serious about carrying lumber, more than a few pieces, design and build a rack inside where the base can be longer than 30 inches, maybe as much as 6 feet, with the excess extending out of the open rear hatch, like a pick up.

 

just my opinion.

 

ps: i carried all sorts of building construction materials on top of my 90 nissan pick up w/ truck cap and ''reinforced ladder rack'' for 15 years. never had a failure or lost a load.

 

plan ahead.

 

and good luck.