We just got this really clean 1998 wagon, and it was code diagnosed at the suby dealer as probably have a couple of stuck valves. What to do? Any suggestions please. Milage is about 95K and it was a one owner.We drove t about 250 mi. since purchase, sometimes as much as 75 - 77 MPH on the interstate. It was smooth and had good power. I can't understand how this situation seems to come out nowhere...

Edited May 21, 201114 yr by stephen sivonda

Welcome to USMB.

 

No specific thoughts but Marvel Mystery Oil seems to do noisy Suby's well in general after lets say a HG job or engine swap.

 

Guess one would have to determine if the problem is a bent valve or something else from inside the cylinder, or outside the cylinder - sludge, cam, etc.

 

Did the dealer do a compression check?

 

What makes them have that diagnosis?

 

Have the HG/s been done yet? I'm thinking perhpas someone didn't get it done right. Does it have a new timing belt on it - like someone was in there messing?

 

Just some thoughts.

Doesn't sound right.

 

If the valves stuck open they would have hit the pistons and be bent.

 

It sure wouldn't run smooth or have good power then.

Explain what the symptom is, why it was taken to the dealer to be diagnosed in the first place.

We just got this really clean 1998 wagon, and it was code diagnosed at the suby dealer as probably have a couple of stuck valves. What to do? Any suggestions please. Milage is about 95K and it was a one owner.We drove t about 250 mi. since purchase, sometimes as much as 75 - 77 MPH on the interstate. It was smooth and had good power. I can't understand how this situation seems to come out nowhere...

 

Would the "Covington" listed in your profile happen to be Covington, KY?

We just got this really clean 1998 wagon, and it was code diagnosed at the suby dealer as probably have a couple of stuck valves. What to do? Any suggestions please. Milage is about 95K and it was a one owner.We drove t about 250 mi. since purchase, sometimes as much as 75 - 77 MPH on the interstate. It was smooth and had good power. I can't understand how this situation seems to come out nowhere...

 

The only experiences I ever had with stuck valves on a boxer motor was with a BMW motorcycle engine. It had a broken valve spring,. Once on a small airplane lead deposits kept an intake valve from closing.

 

In your case, either a broken or extremely weak valve spring is possible, or some trash on the valve seat ( unlikely, since our engined don't have leaded fuel).

 

If it is smooth and has good power on the highway, bent valves are highly unlikely.

 

We need more info.

 

A simple cranking compression test is a good start. You can do it yourself with an inexpensive compression tester that screws in the head in place of the spark plug.

 

Ask if you need further instruction with that.

Maybe the timing belt failed, or slipped, confusing your mechanic that is used to PUSHRODS

Wow, thank you all, with your responses and questions. We bought the car from an auto auction ( they put all types of vehicles on Ebay, Cars.com and Auto Trader all at once) but we went up to look at the '03 O/B with the 6 cyl. and approx. 135K. auto trans, 2 owners. you take a 2-3 mile test drive on local streets with a salesman.(he directs) The hood was repainted and it seemed possible that there was minor front end incident which was not listed on Carfax,the A/C wasn't even cool and the car had obviously been neglected. the salesman went out and brought the '98 around. It was clean inside and out, been a one owner and drove well on the same route we previously took.The engine was quiet, oil clean and level correct...though there was a slight smell of oil burn off like a drip on the exhaust maybe. From reading the reviews on Cars.com I was aware of possible H/G leaks, but the engine compt. was squeeky clean and I thought residue was washed down to dry on the exhaust pipe - hence the smell. We did the paperwork and I drove it ( wife followed in her V-dub) about 200 miles back home on I-66 to I-81 south to I-64 West to home doing interstate speeds no problem. Temp gauge was constant,all systems worked. We stopped twice with the 1st. stop to add air to front left tire...which was a bit low. Second stop was for gas and restrooms. The next AM ( May 19th) Judy took car for use and put on 25-30 miles or so. She said it was fine for her, and she's quite knowledgeable about vehicles. Yesterday, she used it agaln and when she got home she said it started making a noise and the "check eng." light came on, but no other indications displayed ( coolant normal - no oil light) and stopped at the subaru dlrshp. but the service dept. was out for lunch. I called and was told to bring it in about 3:30. We did and they took it in a bay and analyzed the codes. There were 2 #'s PPO's which show misfirng for plugs # 1 and # 3 , but it wasn't the coils. The service mgr. said valves may be sticking, possible cam wear....they'd have to take the valve cover off. He asked if the timing belt was done...I said I didn't believe so. He suggested trying Seafoam so we added about 7-8 oz. to the oil and drove it the 3 miles home. I did a lot of Subaru site surfing last night , and am still unsure. Does all this give anyone any clarity as to how this could come about so rapidly?

1. cylinder misfires typically mean you need new spark plugs or wires.

2. after that coil pack/igniter are most common issues.

 

on this particular engine they *need* to be Subaru OEM NGK plugs and Subaru wires. if they have non-subaru wires or plugs then that could easily be the issue.

 

sounds like a really bad diagnosis but something could be missed in translation.

 

the valves should be adusted or clearances checked.

 

interference motor so timing belt needs to be replaced at some point. if it breaks you'll have bent valves.

 

other things can cause cylinder misfires, so that they're jumping straight to this sounds like you need to take it elsewhere. i fixed a multiple cylinder misfire 3 weeks ago by swapping injectors.

sounds like they gave you the old muffler bearing story

Sorry about being a little late with the diagnoses and outcome. It wasn't the valves... and in retrospect when the #1 & #3 are not firing (not due to spark) and they are on the same side of the engine -Taadaaa - belt jumped 2 teeth. I took it to a local shop, and while we waited they took off the covers and called us back to look at it. One smooth pulley also had some play. A Gates kit with Belt -tensioner and 3 or 4 other pulleys was installed and now it hums again. good to go. lucky it didn't go further.

Wow, you really lucked out on that one! Only 95k and a timing idler worn out to the point of the belt jumping time. Coulda been much worse.

 

I would be suspicious of the mileage on the clock. That is pretty unusual for that kind of wear after only 95k.

 

Do car fax. Small dealers that take cars to auctions are notorious for rollbacks,

 

I recently bought a Honda that had come through an auction. Couldn't understand why the suspension was so bad with such low mileage - until I did a car fax.