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The buzzards are circling

Well I installed that compressor with both brackets, but just the one bolt on the bracket 17 would not line up. Like I said, though, with it installed that way, it was out of alignment. So what you say, makes sense, that the # 16 would be the culprit. I wish there was a diagram that showed all the washers and any spacers. Maybe I just installed it wrong. Can you see on yours washers or spacers that would affect the alignment of the other bracket?

After getting the engine back together in the 97 2.2, the AC bracket will not line up with all the mounting holes in the block. One of them is about a 1/4 inch off. Someone who I had hired and then fired to do an engine swap had brought an engine from a 93. I am wondering if he got the wrong bracket. Anyone know if the AC mount bracket for a 93 is different than the 97? Otherwise, I must have put it together wrong with the alternator bracket. With the compressor installed the bolt on the tip ( right side) of the bracket doesn't line up and the compressor is out of alignment with the crank pulley The bracket I am referring to is number 17 in the diagram

Did the PB blaster the day before. Southern car so little corrosion. Thanks for the tip about Autozone. They had this really cool tool that worked perfectly without dropping the exhaust. It's and OEM 27162 angled, swiveling line type wrench. Job took about 45 minutes with son helping.

My experiences with oil leaks on the EJ engines are #1 the cam seals ( yes that is in the timing belt area) #2 oil baffle plate, #3, head gaskets. Baffle plate and head gaskets are not worth messing with unless you are the type to loose sleep over a dirty garage floor or a little whiff of burnt oil. Engine pull. The cam gaskets get done at timing belt change. I put down a big piece of cardboard box in the garage and live with it. Also, if you are smelling burnt oil, check the right front outer CV joint boot,. They tear and throw grease on the exhaust

Need to change the front O2 sensor on my son's 2000 O/B w/ 2.5 Anyone that has done this care to offer advice? It is pretty tight up there and looks like I will need to drop the Y pipe from the heads to get on it.

With these cars getting to the 15 year old stage, they get traded by used car dealers. Often they will slap a new T-belt on them so they can say "oh yeah, new timing belt" The average buyer does not understand the problem with not changing water pump or idlers, and a year later, wham! When I was looking for used wagon for my son, I checked out several small dealers cars. They would universally say, yeah we changed the timing belt. When I asked about idlers or water pump, I would get a blank stare and then they would say, "no they were fine".

Looking inside the tube, it has a white powdery build up in it. Smells a bit like solvent. Looked at a friends RHD 97 and cannot find it on theirs.

+1 Great Monsanto subsidy

Original engine. I may get a better idea when the air box is on. Hoping someone would recognize it.

Thanks, I'll check, but I don't think this is one of those lines on your manifold. My EGr is hooked up, the fuel press regulator is hooked up and the engine runs (not well without the airbox on it.) Since this line is painted black, I think it has something to do with the air box, filter system.

Okay, found the place to connect to hose to the manifold and the regulator, However , I found this metal pipe on the cart, that I have no idea where it goes. It still has some rubber vacuum line on it from when it was removed,.

Will do that tomorrow, after I fix the rabbit hutch.

There is a kit you can rent at Autozone, that tests the coolant for combustion gases. It is easy and cheap ( free) There is a little bulb sucker with a resevoir that you put a little chemical in. Then you position it on top of the radiator with the cap removed and suck a little air from the radiator into the tester. The chemical in the tester will turn a color if there is combustion gases present. I used on on my OB before I bought it.

To make a long story short. Someone pulled the engine to swap it, since this one had bent valves. The engine he brought was no good, so removed the heads to have them repaired. He quit, and left - everything laying around the shop. My son ( it's his car) decided to remove the intake and paint it red. That is when the tube was removed.

Thanks, I have a feeling my son left that metal tube off when he installed the intake.

Still working on this project someone else took apart. I need help identifying a vacuum line/tap. On the back side of the #3 cylinder intake spider there is a very small ( maybe 5mm) intake tap. I cannot figure out what line goes there and to what. It is the 97 2.2 Lego Anyone know? Can't find a picture and the diagram on the hood and in the manual is not much help. This project is getting me down. Just found tonight all the AC compressor mount bolts are missing too.

If it is not a factory ( Subaru ) thermostat, it can be installed backwards. That would cause the overheat you described. I've seen it before.

If it were mine, and I was concerned about the history/condition of the engine, I would only replace the rear oil seperator plate, then install and run it, before buying all those other parts. They can be changed afteward, with the engine in the car. If the engine is no good, you won't have spent a couple hundred on parts you can't use.

Three hours sounds about right.

By filling the combustion chamber with the leaky ( slightly bent, not burnt) valve with rope and tightening the clearance on those rockers to zero, you may be able to straighten the valve enough to get it to seal and bring your compression back up. This won't work for an exhaust valve as well, because unless it seals very well, it will eventually "burn" the valve and the head will have to come off anyway. You can determine if it is exhaust or intake with a leak down check and listening to the tailpipe and intake airbox ( minus the filter) while pressurizing the cylinder.

If you figure out which cylinder, you could tighten down the rocker and try the rope trick.

The oil pan on this project car has a dent where it was high centered. Now leaking about a drop every 20 minutes. Thought about JB weld, but if I am going to the trouble to remove it, maybe I should just replace it. What ja think?

Was there like an extension from the engine harness down to the lead on the sensor?

I can see where that would work, except the lead is not long enough. gotta figure out how to re-connect this sensor since the bozo took it apart is gone.