On a 4" lifted EA81 wagon I keep wiping out inboard passenger side CV boots (hence joints). Struts are not raised with factory adjusters. What the hell!?!? This last replacement shaft lasted exactly 2 weeks and that's no real heavy off road stuff either. All have been bought thru NAPA.

 

Why does this keep happening, and why just the right side one? Are some replacement shafts better than others? If so, where do I get them?

 

Also, does anyone know of longer replacement boots to install instead of replacing shafts all the time? Seems like a boot a bit longer may take the changed geometry and flex the lift kit creates.

Edited May 30, 201114 yr by ettev

subframe drop? do you ont have a suspension lift? a proper lift would retain the same geometry as stock, but just 4 inches away from the body.

 

you may have to make a drop shackle of some sort to mount the diff lower.

 

your axles are popping because you have 4 inches of lift presumably wiyh no body lift.

 

It is a common know fact that suspension lift only is hard on axles and causes premature failure, because of the extreme angle.

 

Your axles are probably limiting the travel of the suspension, as the weight of the wheels are pullling on the circlips inside the axle boot, and when flexed enough, it separates when the wheel moves through the rest of its allowable travel.

Miles, it's a body lift. By a differential drop are you referring to the rear end? My issue is on the front right side. Never any problems (knock wood) with rear joints using these lifts.

I have had alot of problems with the passenger side assembly tearing boots. Ive replaced several under warranty and with out, some shimmy and click right out of the box.

Even now my brat is rolling with a torn outer boot, it only had about 200 miles on it when it went (my cars arent lifted). Its common knowledge here that aftermarket axles are not reliable, just do a search and you will find lots of info. Im going to give MWE axles a try next time since they seem to be whats recomended around here.

I guess I'll try MWE as well. Was wondering what assemblies Rock Auto sells. have always had good luck with stuff they peddle.

I almost exclusively use EMPI axles - including the custom axles we made for the frankenbrat - EMPI EA81 axles with 25 spline EJ inner joints (also EMPI). Haven't had a single issue with them. I've lost a boot on one that's in my hatch after a couple years (it's stock height) but that's it.

 

They run me about $60 to $65 per axle, are brand new, and carry a lifetime warrantee.

 

GD

Thanks Rick. Who sells those axles? Buy direct from EMPI?

 

I almost exclusively use EMPI axles - including the custom axles we made for the frankenbrat - EMPI EA81 axles with 25 spline EJ inner joints (also EMPI). Haven't had a single issue with them. I've lost a boot on one that's in my hatch after a couple years (it's stock height) but that's it.

 

They run me about $60 to $65 per axle, are brand new, and carry a lifetime warrantee.

 

GD

Well that's the tricky part and probably why more people here go through MWE than buy the EMPI's - you have to find an EMPI dealer in your area or online. I am lucky that I have a really excelent independant parts store that specializes in VW's (but does all "imports") and carries everything EMPI offers. I also shop there so much they know me by name and have graced me with a business account so I get amazing deals. I think the last EMPI axle I bought for a Honda was $55

 

 

GD

Also, does anyone know of longer replacement boots to install instead of replacing shafts all the time? Seems like a boot a bit longer may take the changed geometry and flex the lift kit creates.

 

I've also noticed that some aftermarket boots are too short for the inner joint, espescially with a lifted rig.

 

Just undo the small clamp, and slide the end of the boot a bit further in towards the cup and re clamp.