I bought an '82 wagon this winter that had a "complete rebuild" from a subaru specialist on an 1.8L engine in December. It's been leaking oil (about 1 qt for every 300 miles) and I was assured that it's just "settling in". After about 2000 miles, it's still leaking and I found the anti-freeze is milky with some brownish film when I flushed the coolant system today. I'm thinking the head gasket seal might be shotty. Also, it looks like there's oil residue above the oil pump. Maybe a front seal leak? I'm leary to take the car back to the mechanic again without getting an idea what's going on. Any thoughts or advice?

Edited May 31, 201114 yr by slow be

Sounds like head gaskets to me.

 

 

Personally, I think I'd find someone new to work on your car.

check anything the hose, even small hose (near carb & water pump) without leaky from coolant.

maybe you did over-tight hose with steel clamp cause leaky?

there have a badly leaky oil?

Can anyone suggest a reliable subie mechanic in/around the Olympia, WA area? I'm going to pursue getting the mechanic that "rebuilt" this engine to make it right, but would like have someone in mind for repairs that are more involved.

Maybe the heads just need tweeking up.

 

When installing new head gaskets the heads need to be correctly torqued. Then the engine should be run untill hot, cooled down and then re-torqued.

 

Maybe they missed this last step.

 

Cheers.

Talk to Steve or Dave at PIA in spanaway(however it's spelled).

I don't know what your schedule is like, but I have a good friend and customer that brings his rigs to me from Olympia. If you want to bring it down to the Portland area..... EA81's are a specialty of mine and I'm sure I could get you fixed up and on the right path.

 

GD

Hey Dirk,

Thanks for the tip. I'll check the specs in the manual and make sure the bolts are proper.

Ernst82,

Gracias. I'll try to find those guys and see what they think.

GD,

I've been needing to get down there, anyway. I'm swamped with work during the week this summer; do you think you could be around on a saturday?

 

Thanks everybody!

slowbe

Maybe the heads just need tweeking up.

 

When installing new head gaskets the heads need to be correctly torqued. Then the engine should be run untill hot, cooled down and then re-torqued.

 

Maybe they missed this last step.

 

Cheers.

 

Never heard of the final step, is that an ea81/ea82 thing?

:-\

sound like the heads didn't get re-torqued after initial install of head, and after getting up to operating temp

Never heard of the final step, is that an ea81/ea82 thing?

 

Not sure.

 

I read it in Larry Owens book.

 

But it makes sense to do this on any head with new gaskets.

 

Dirk

Not sure.

 

I read it in Larry Owens book.

 

But it makes sense to do this on any head with new gaskets.

 

Dirk

 

EJ motors would require you to pull the motor. I'm guessing this is an older motor thing.

 

I'll be sure to do it when I complete my ea81 rebuilds this Summer.

 

Thanks

EJ motors would require you to pull the motor. I'm guessing this is an older motor thing.

 

I'll be sure to do it when I complete my ea81 rebuilds this Summer.

 

Thanks

 

I know what you mean. There is simply not enough space in the engine bay to do the job properly. Also on the EA engines you have to remove the rockers to access all the bolts.

 

Last I did it on my EA71 I removed the engine mount bolts and shifted the engine about to gain better access to the head bolts.

 

Dirk

I haven't had a chance to consult the haynes manual after seeing everybody's great feedback, so please excuse any silly questions.

How deeply do I have to dig into the motor to get to those bolts ("removing rockers" doesn't sound like a pleasent experience to me)? Let's say I get a wild hair and give this a try on my own, do you think I could just get the engine hot and tighten them down, or could there be some gasket/coolant corruption issue that might require a new head gasket? If I did get to those bolts, would I have to readjust valves, or timing, or etc, after putting everything back together?

Sounds like you guys know more about this stuff than the subaru "expert" that did the rebuild. Thanks for you help.

Edited June 2, 201114 yr by slow be
goofy

I think it' a brilliant idea! I can't see any harm in you trying this one ur self.

 

Rocker cover- two bolts

Rocker assembly- Two nuts

Head- 7 Nuts

 

You will ofcourse need a torque wrench and yes you will have to re-set the valve clearances (not sure if you have hydraulic or solid lifters(if you have hydraulic lifters there will be a sticker on the rocker cover saying 'not not adjust'))

 

Deffinately read the haynes before you start.

There have a 9 bolts from on the head cycle for must right kind torque ft lb .

for replace head gasket;

First 1st on the middle bolt do on 21-25 ft lb, 2nd on the top of right and by the middle blot do on 42-45 ft lb, 3rd on the top of left by and middle blot do on 48-51 ft lb, 4th on the below of right corner blot do on the 80-85 ft lb, 5th on the below of left corner do on the 80-85 ft lb, 6th on the top of left corner blot do on same 80-85 ft lb, 7th on the top right corner blot do on the other same 80-85 ft lb, 8th on the middle right blot do on the 80-85 ft lb and last of 9th on the left blot do same and same the 80-85 ft lb.

that wont be get blown head cycle / gasket and COOLANT.

 

hopefully you understand?