aksledboy Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 I just got a 87 GL wagon 1.8 carb and it has this really tick that gets louder with the higher rpms...the oil pressure is about 45 psi when i start it. when i drive it on the hwy 55 and up the oil presure go down to like 25-30... when i got home and looked under the car and there oil everywhere looks like its been qleaking somewhere for a long time....so i guess my ? is should i replace the oil pump and seals and go from there......i already put seafoam in it was a little better for 3 min. car has 300,000 miles on it....any help would be nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Probably need to re-seal you oil pump, and most likely don't need to replace it, just re-seal. Its not too hard to re-seal once you get the plastic covers off, which can stay off permanently. You can get the seals from any subaru dealer and they're not expensive at all. Check the writeup section, I think there's one in there on how to do this. Leaks could be a couple other things too, like cam seals, cam tower seals(RTV) and valve covers...or all of them. I'd start with the oil pump and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RapidElastic Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 I did cam seals, oil pump, and valve covers all at once I would recommend it. Stopped my clicking and no longer leaks oil. And I did timing belts as well while it was all apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 I would suggest cam tower o-rings if the leak is profuse, and starving the upper valve train. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aksledboy Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 wow thanks guys for the good advice... I think im going to just take the oil pump and oil pan off and clean it up really good and do all new gaskets with oil pump,oil pan,cam towers.....anymore suggestions on what i should do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 I'd wait on the oil pan, I've heard they can be a real SOB. Here's a thread with the OEM parts numbers for most of the seals. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41172&highlight=pump+seals+part+number I called my local Subaru dealer and got all the seals and o-rings, minus the HG's and oil pan gasket, for $80. I think that part #806718090 - oil pump seal, Isn't really needed, because from what I understand, if you need one, you may as well get a new pump. I'm talking about the shaft seal to clarify. Also, the "mickey mouse' oil pump seal #14066AA000 is one number off....I can't exactly remember which one, but I think its #15066AA000, your parts dealer will be able to straighten it out. If you have problems getting the cam tower seal(which is RTV) to properly seal, you can get 5mm o-ring rubber by ft/roll to fit in there for a oil tight fit, I haven't done it, but search for details if you like. I searched online and found a few local sources that have it for fairly cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aksledboy Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 ok before i begin this project is there any special tools that i need or will my metric socket set do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 No special tools are needed, and if your lacking any wrenches/sockets, just hit up harbor freight. If you have any buddys with full tool kits and/or experience diving into motors...it might be worth a 6 pack to have them help. Pre-lubing the MM gasket and oil pump o-ring will help them install/seat and prevent dry start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aksledboy Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 so i cant do the work for a week....is the engine going to die if i drive it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 you'll be fine, some people (i have) drive them for years like this. i wouldn't worry about it. oil pump has an oring, gasket (oring like material), and front shaft seal. 3 parts to seal it. then there's a crank seal above the oil pump as well. replace it, or at least have it on hand as it could easily be leaking as well. cam seals and the cam cap orings (they are sold as a set on thepartsbin.com or Subaru has the orings) are easily replaced behind the timing belt as well. it would be obvious if those are leaking as they're on the "outside" of the engine and the oil pump/crank are centrally located. i'd use subaru parts, i've had aftermarkets leak. i've used aftermarkets with plenty of success before too but i like nearly %100 success rate and there's hadly any cost savings given these seals are only a few bucks each. +1 - i wouldn't replace the oil pump gasket unless you're 100% positive it's leaking, which yo'ure not since it's so saturated you can't tell. most likely a seal by your description anyway. you can't tell but the way the baffles are in the pan make it 100 times harder to remove than what it looks like when you crawl under and look at it. if the timing belt is wet with oil i'd plan on replacing it. heck, since you have to remvoe the belts and just got the car i would just get thae $60 ebay timing kits and install all new belts, tensioners, and pulleys and that's a big reliability improvement. i resealed a friends car and the aftermarket crank seal leaked and got the belt wet. i didn't know at the time that oil/coolant degrades belts so fast so i just wiped it off. the brand new timing belt didn't even last 10,000 miles before it broke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 ok before i begin this project is there any special tools that i need or will my metric socket set do? a basic 40 pc socket set is enough to do most work, and some wrenches. Everyting you are dealong with is 10, 12, and 14mm, with some 8mm here and there, and 14, 17, qnd 19 for the rest of the car and suspension. you will want a 7/8, 0r 22mm for the cranl pulley, and the drain plug on he trans. The oil pump will suck in one of the ears on the 'mickey-mouse' gasket(hence its shape). This is common occurrence, and the tick of death is clue to it, and is usually the culprit, ans the dent in the seal will aerate the oil. It is not much out of your way to remove the pump and change this seal. The pump itself rarely fails, and only would do so if the sump were run dry of oil. also, the shaft seal may leak. You can change it without removing the pump. Here is a tip: remove the 12mm nut on the oil pump shaft when the belt is still on, and tighten it down after the new belt is installed. If you remove the pup, you can do this on a bench vise if you hold the shaft still in the vise with a rag to protect it. I would do the fornt seals first. If yhe problem persists, then get into the am tower o rings. But that part is a pain in the arse, and my preference is to pull the engine and just do it all The engine is easy to take out compared to other cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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