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My "new to me" 96 Legacy AC keeps cycling on and off. The air is ice cold when the compressor is engaged, but it keeps clicking on and off. The air is cold, then warm, then cold, etc. And the air isn't cold at all when idling, even though the compressor is engaged and the fans are on. I don't have the high/low guages, just a store bought refill hose with a guage on it. It says the system is at 25-28 psi on the low side when engaged. Is that right? I put a can of 134a in it, and it took it fast! Do you think it just needs another? Is this a syptom of a sensor or switch going bad, or is the compressor shot?

 

Thanks

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What does the chart on the can say the pressure should be? System pressure is very dependant on ambient air temp....

 

It could still be borderline and the pressure switch in the system is cutting off the compressor. Check the pressure more carefully with an eye toward the ambient temp, evaporator temp (air coming from the vents) and with a chart for R134A such as this one:

 

http://www.ackits.com/aacf/ptchart.cfm

 

GD

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And the air isn't cold at all when idling, even though the compressor is engaged and the fans are on.

Thanks

 

Have a look here...

 

http://ezinearticles.com/?AC-Doesnt-Cool-While-at-a-Stop---Air-Conditioning-Blows-Warm-at-Idle&id=2209876

 

 

When investigating mine, I did read that this could be a symptom of a compressor that is starting to wear - it doesn't provide enough compression at low rpms. But then, that article does list a few other reasons. If you car has high mileage with the original compressor, it may be time to replace it. I just did mine. Have a look for my recent post on the DIY fix....

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=122792

 

 

Steve

Edited by samneric
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I would check both the high and the low side of it, it might be the evap valve. But make sure you know what you are doing before messing with the high side, or take it to the pros and let them handle it. But I would look into getting it checked at least.

 

Mines doing the same thing right now, and both sides are equalized which leads me to believe the evap valve is stuck open, and I am replacing it this weekend. It seems that the compressor isnt' working because it isn't building any pressure, but the evap valve is what is causing the system to not build pressure, not the compressor, since it does blow cold some of the time and not others. It's a $20 part that's looks to be fairly easy to replace, so might be worth looking into it before blaming/replacing the compressor. And even if you do replace the compressor, I would replace the evap valve as well, since it's so cheap :)

 

It could also be the compressor, but a $20 part might be cheaper than buying a new compressor. Unless new to you is a junk yard compressor, which is what I would call "new", then it's a lot cheaper :grin:

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And even if you do replace the compressor, I would replace the evap valve as well, since it's so cheap :)

 

Changing the expansion (evap) valve and dryer is mandatory when changing the compressor.

 

If you buy the kit you get those pieces and a bottle of A/C flush for cleaning out the components.

 

Steve

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