efseiler Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I noticed that there's a special reservoir of fluid for the clutch in my new Outback... Does the fluid need to be changed from time to time like in a brake system...? What's the purpose of fluid in a clutch, anyway? --Damien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Yes, the fluid does need to be changed from time to time. Just like any fluid. The fluid is what causes your clutch to engage and disengauge when you press the pedel. Just like brake fluid and your brakes. I know most people never touch the clutch fluid unless there is a problem, and know cars it was never changed on. Not commonly touched.. But not a bad idea to check a service manual to see if there is a service life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 Well the fluid in the reservoir is getting yellow and a little bit nasty. I found a really good howto on changing clutch fluid for (apparently) these style (Subaru) clutches ----->http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/205212-flush-clutch-fluid.html It's a fairly simple procedure and (I'm told) is recommended maintenance. Cheers! --Damien p.s. I also recommend flushing the power steering fluid, too. I do it by simple drain, refill, drain refill reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Watch yourself - they are very, very tricky to bleed properly. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 some subaru hydraulic clutches are fairly prone to hose and slave cylinder failures, so replacing the fluid would be a good idea to keep internals as best as possible. like GD said - bleeding these things can be one of the more annoying processes known to man. if you can bleed it without introducing air, do it. GD i believe knows a good way to do it - i've had to drive them with bad clutches or let them set overnight to get all the bubbles to coagulate in one spot - either up top or bleeder, not sure what cracks the system up but they're hard to bleed sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 ok...well I went ahead and attempted to bleed the clutch reservoir...sure enough the clutch fluid drained but only some got sucked from the reservoir back into the system. I'm guessing maybe the inlet port may have gotten clogged or perhaps the system was over-pressurized or who knows... Anyway, I stopped after only draining maybe an ounce and a half from the system and topped off the fluid reservoir. I got back on the road again and it drove and shifted fine... It's slightly smoother shifting with less shudder now. I checked the reservoir again and the level hadn't budged.... I guess I got what I wished for..... --Damien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 you don't mention what year but if the system starts having issues it's fairly common to replace the hose and slave cylinder. that's easy, the bleeding is hard. so it was a success for you then, some improvement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 slave cylinder? Does that apply to the clutch? I've got a '98 Outback. --Damien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Yes - the slave cylinder is the thing you loosened the bleeder screw on. If it's working just leave it alone. You will not enjoy the process of completely bleeding it and replacing the fluid. If the slave cylinder is getting weak it may cause the pedal to be mushy, stick to the floor and have to be pulled up with your hand or foot, or cause dragging of the clutch which can lead to hot-spots on the flywheel/PP and cause studdering durring engagement. Your model/year is part of a TSB about weak slave cylinders. If you have any of the above symptoms you need to replace the slave, the hose from the MC to the slave, and the copper washers on either side of the hose banjo fitting. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 If the slave cylinder is getting weak it may cause the pedal to be mushy, stick to the floor and have to be pulled up with your hand or foot, or cause dragging of the clutch which can lead to hot-spots on the flywheel/PP and cause studdering durring engagement. GD It got mushy (and flat) but only when loosening the bleeder screw...I retightened it and pulled the clutch pedal back...then it sucked some fluid in from the reservoir. Then it operated normally. It would shudder somewhat before...but only on a downshift...and only into 2nd (and sometimes 3rd). Now it shudders less. :-\ The fluid from the bleeder was a little tan...but not brown or nasty. I guessed that that flush would not be a priority. --Damien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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