replaced the rear main seal since it was leaking just enough to go down.. just my luck it would find it's way to the flywheel.

 

Edited August 16, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4

Was the seal chewed up like that, or was it from removing it? Maybe you'll get lucky and it won't leak.

 

Make sure you re RTV that little plate on the left side of the rear main. The screws for the oil plate look like Allan Keys not Torx

I'm still scred to pull the timing belt still.. it seems like the drivers side jumped one tooth? the crank is set to the mark and the passenger side is right but the drivers side seems to be off.. Having said that the cams looks like this when parked? It's not going to snap out of control when I remove the belt is it?

 

 

It's a Subaru Belt so no telling how long it's been on.. all I have is when this car went in for service at like 66K lol..

 

 

driver's head

 

Was the seal chewed up like that, or was it from removing it? Maybe you'll get lucky and it won't leak.

 

Make sure you re RTV that little plate on the left side of the rear main. The screws for the oil plate look like Allan Keys not Torx

 

I was asking about the torx because the one size I needed was missing but like I said the T28 fit well.

 

And that cover plate is on pretty good at least the screws are.

The timing looks dead on, but it can be off a tooth of two and not "Snap spin" on you, Just be gentle.

im trying to check the intake and exhaust valves and the issue I'm running into is some of them are being pushed by the cam.. only thing I can think of is put the crank back on and turn it that way..

I just checked the valve clearance and this is what I got so far..

 

Drivers side Intake:

 

all 0.20mm

 

Drivers Exhaust:

 

Starting from the rear of the motor

 

0.25

0.18

0.25

0.13

 

Passenger Side Intake:

 

From the rear forward

 

0.18mm

0.20mm

0.20mm

0.20mm

 

Passenger Exhaust from the rear forward

 

0.18mm

0.18mm

0.25mm

0.20mm

any reason why I can't use my impact gun on the head bolts? I don't have a engine stand and the bolts are not coming off and using a cheater bar is not helping because the motor wants to tip forward.

damn I forgot all about my buckets in the drivers head and I put the head cam side down and went to pick it up and they got all mixed up :-/

 

nevertheless I got the drivers head off.. jesus I weigh 125lb and I was putting almost all my weight on the ratchet... I bent my copper pipe...

 

cool thing to note is I did not know the shortblock had numbers above what cylinder is what.

 

 

Hmm seems like I got some warpage.. going to recheck again after I clean the head.

Edited August 16, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4

The place Im going to take the heads to is $120 for resurface including a wash decent enough..

 

 

Looks like not much else going to happen until Friday at least lol Im cash strapped right now at the moment.

some pictures.. just chilling getting one head off was enough work.. so I put the new flywheel on and replace that foam stuff since mine was gone.

 

 

So I did the oil pump.. I still need to drain my oil.. not much in the pan maybe about 3 qts really due for an oil change.

 

the screws on the back of the pump.. only two I took out to put thread locker blue on them the others I was unable to unscrew them so I figured they wont be coming undone anytime soon.

 

Old t-stat

 

 

All cleaned up with purple Power

 

 

Drivers head gasket

 

 

pistons after removed head

 

 

 

 

fork

 

 

A Gerneraldisorder suggestion

 

 

 

cleaning the bellhousing..

 

before:

 

 

After:

 

dumb question.. if i'm going to go have the heads resurfaced do I need to take out the lifters buckets? I'm trying to prevent another mishap of them getting mixed up like yesterday

The timing looks dead on, but it can be off a tooth of two and not "Snap spin" on you, Just be gentle.

 

the top intake one snapped and spun around as soon as I took the impact to the bolt the exhaust valves were closed so nothing happened.

 

Was the seal chewed up like that, or was it from removing it? Maybe you'll get lucky and it won't leak.

 

Make sure you re RTV that little plate on the left side of the rear main. The screws for the oil plate look like Allan Keys not Torx

 

 

The seal was like that was I was picking in 4 area to get it out

cleaned the piston the best I could without causing any harm... piston 4 was really built up with carbon.

 

cleaned the piston the best I could without causing any harm... piston 4 was really built up with carbon.

 

 

Did you turn the pistons so they are at TDC and use a brass wirewheel on a drill? Thats the best way to clean them.

nope I used a gasket scraper on it after I softened the carbon up

 

I'm making sure this time I don't get the lifters mixed up this time

 

 

When I get the passenger side head off I can really start checking the shims.

Oh man got the passenger head off now in short block mode

 

Anyways the passenger side was way bad as far as failed headgaskets it left it's mark on the head where it did not make a good seal.

 

from the look of the gaskets they seem to be factory and this is the first change.. As far as the timing belt as you will see I can't say for sure if the Timing belt has ever been changed as well.. my car has 217k but it's odd this Subaru belt has the arrows but no line marks unless they wore away..

 

I got the passenger lifters out without any falling (yay) each in it's own little bag.. now as soon as I get the shims out I will check with the mic.

 

Now for the exhaust studs.. is it possible to get the nut off that backed out the whole stud from the head? I would rather not buy new stuff since a nut was like $5 or so from the dealer last time I looked.

 

cleaned the inside of the valve covers and put the new gasket on the covers.. also scrubbed down the intake manifold so it's cleaner then it was before.

 

 

cleaned the oil cap!

 

 

old Subaru belt

 

 

Passenger HG

 

 

 

 

Yes I know I have surface rust which happened by mistake

 

 

I have a grill now

 

 

 

 

Dirty

 

 

Clean

 

 

as for the IAC it's easier to take the top off because the shutter or whatever it's called wont move when spraying because it's held by a magnet by the way it's controlled.. So with it removed I'm able to move it about while spraying

 

Anyways hope the head bolts go in far easier then it was to take them out..

Edited August 18, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4

Not much to say, guess cause I'm watching. But, you're doing a good job and gotta love "Short Block" mode.

If I could find a cheap Ej25 I wanted to try something... something dark.. that involves a spinning wheel powered by exhaust gases

 

 

 

 

But that for another day...

 

All I can say is I'm glad I printed out the whole FSM!!

 

time lapse from the first day

 

Edited August 18, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4

Now for the exhaust studs.. is it possible to get the nut off that backed out the whole stud from the head? I would rather not buy new stuff since a nut was like $5 or so from the dealer last time I looked.

Who cares. Unless the stud is really rusty or corroded, just put it back in just the way it is when you reassemble.

First time I pulled the head on my wagon (to change the burnt valve, I left the engine in the car) I made a point to pull the studs out of the head so I wouldn't have to drop the Y pipe.

But if you're really hell bent, thread two nuts of the proper thread onto the other end, tighten them down against each other so they grip the stud. Clamp those in a vise to hold the stud while you crack the flanged nut loose with a wrench.

the header on this car is just about shot anyways they seem to just disappear around the flange..

 

next month I plan on getting headers however the girl comes first :cool:

Hey speaking of grilles... (goin offtopic as usual)

 

I saw one today on a 95-99 model Legacy outback wagon, but it wasn't the typical outback grille. It looked like more a waffle iron type grid. Vertical and horizontal slats about 3/4" square all the way across. I didn't see it close enough to tell if it was home made or if it was an alternate factory type. I really liked it though. Anybody else ever seen one like that?

Actually I think it was this one: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/1st_Subaru_Outback_SUS.jpg

Edited August 18, 201114 yr by Fairtax4me

haha yeah an SUS grill some people like the look of that :-/

 

I was going to get a JDm grill but then I thought about it and I was like why pay $85 plus like $60 shipping..

 

So I picked up a used grill from ebay for like $30 (my old one fell off while I was driving and someone ran over it) and TheLoyale was kind enough to send me a replacement grill badge since I cracked the other one trying to take it off.. But before I did all that I painted it flat black with like 4 or 5 coats with 4 coats of uv clear.

 

looks pretty nice if you ask me.. way better then not having a grill lol.

haha yeah an SUS grill some people like the look of that :

Ahh so it came on the SUS? Hmmm.... I can probably forget about ever finding one of those then. If I see that car again I'll chase them down and steal it.

That got me too. As with any engine, arrows always point to the engine front. Shims pop out of bucket with a pick or tweezers. If your shims are still marked, write numbers down THEN wipe them off. Those numbers wipe right off. Most of my intake were .009 one was .010. The exhaust were all right on except for two, they were both .008. I couldn't believe the cap bolts took such little torque 90 in lbs. They are! I still tweaked the inside bolts a little more. It was alot of measuring, checking and double checking, but not hard. Hell, if you exhaust is measuring .008. Spec calls for .010. And the shim is a .025. Then you need a .023. Simple.

 

 

stupid question and Im looking at my shim in front of me.. is it possible for it to wear from 2.56 to 2.55?