danzick Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 so i was drivin along, and it just died, and i tried starting it quite a few times and it would start for a few seconds, and than it would die.than, it wouldnt try to start at all after that. im pretty sure its fuel related. cause when i take a cup of fuel and dump it in the throttle body, it will run for a few seconds again and die. filter and pump are fine. when i unplug the filtered side of the fuel filter, gas comes flying out so im pretty sure both of those are fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danzick Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 oh and by the way, im pretty sure its single port fuel injection. i know its fuel injected of some sort. and its an automatic. cleaned the MAF sensor with the special cleaner as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danzick Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 ok, another update. after letting it sit for like 4 hours now once we towed it back to the house, it took a couple tries of starting than dying, but it eventually started and ran. so i took it a little ways up the road to see if the engine code would pop on, and it died again and wont start. its not getting hot, i can take the radiator cap off with my hand and theres lots of coolant. i just put a brand new 80 dollar cts for the ecu. and the only thing my ecu ligght does is bling 7 times real fast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 look into the little transistor piece on the coul bracket. just swap that out. This part will overheat and fail, and then run again till it gets hot again. it is simple to replace, cheap or free at the junkyard, but buying a new one would be expensive or impossible. do searches for "ignition amplifier" and or transistor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danzick Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 but why would dumping fuel in the throttle body make it want to run again. after it stranded me up my road, i let it sit for awhile and went up to get it, and it started and ran fine and i drove it right to my house??? it cant be spark, cause its not getting gas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 whoops i misse that part. what i mentined is common, but may not be your case. didi you look at the fuel pup? it is stoopid easy to get at. you should have an mpfi turbo, or your car is another model besides gl-10 there were spfi gl10's for 1986 in FWD at form Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danzick Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 nope, this is an 88 gl 10 with the 1.8L non turboed efi motor. i think its spfi because it only has one injector, and in my manual it says the non turboed 88 gl 10s are spfi. and no i havent looked at the fuel pump, when i disconnect the fuel filter, gas comes shooting out, and i can hear it running. i dont know if it makes a difference, but the guy who owned it before me rigged up some toggle switch cause he couldn't figure out why the fuel pump would constantly click on and off while the key was on, and i found out it had the green connectors for the ecu read connected. and when i disconnected them, the pump noise stopped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekdee Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 sounds like a definite fuel issue. Delivery seems to be haulted somewhere. Fuel pumps for these cars are 250. Ridiculous. That or a pick and pull. I have an 88 GL, and for some reason I sputter around 2000-3000 rpm's. Figured it was something fuel related, pump works, replaced one out of the two filters. Proly going to change out the other this weekend. Good luck man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danzick Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 so i think it might be a bad injector??? how do you mess with the connectors to read the engine codes? i dont have a black pair. just white and green connectors. and i was messing with them and code 14 and 24 poped up. which is abnormal injector out put, and 24 is like air control valve? whats that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 the white and green ones are the ones you use to get codes on these cars. (black is EJ) have you found the write up in the USRM about EA82 trouble codes yet? if not, you should take a look at that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danzick Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 i found it, but when i unplugged the 2 connectors and plugged them back in, the engine light flashes at me and no code shows up? so i just un did my ground battery cable and let it sit overnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 are you trying to read codes from the dash light, or the ECU??? Dash light wont show the codes on the GL series - you have to get them from the LED on the ECU. Also, only plug in one set of connectors at a time - not both at the same time unless you want to clear codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danzick Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 ok, i was reading the ecu light when i got the injector abnormal out put and they air control valve. but then, no light would show on the ecu, and my engine light was flashing at me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 well, you have two codes to start with - try fixing those items. start with the smallest number code first - then try starting/driving, see if the code/codes come back. It is common for one single problem item to cause multiple codes over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danzick Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 so i went to the junk yard today, and just swapped out the injector housing and sensors over from a loyal to my subaru. it seems to run good and im not having trouble. so how exactly do you deal with the code reading process again? when i got the car, it had the green connectors plugged in but the fuel pump was always turning on and off with the key being on. do i leave one of them plugged in while i drive it, or am i not supposed to have any connected while i normally drive? cause i unplugged the connectors, and the O2 sensor to try it, and the engine light wouldnt come on, and the only way the code would show up was if the engine was running and the green connector was plugged in? i have 2 green connectors and 2 white connectors by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 glad to hear that swapping the injector housing seems to have fixed it for you. neither set of test plugs should be plugged in for normal daily driving. make sure your codes are cleared, either via the proper procedure as outlined in the USRM article, or by disconnecting the battery for several hours, and happy driving. by clearing codes, you will know you are looking at a "new" problem next time the light comes on, not the old one you have already fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New to Soob Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Hi all. I know this thread is almost a year old but it is the first one I've found that is describing anything close to my problem. You probably guessed from my name that I'm new to Subaru. I've done tons of reading so this might sound like I know more than I really do. I've had a '91 Loyale SPFI for almost 2 years and recently ran into some issues. I'm the second owner and bought it with only 68k on the odo. Has only about 75K now. Tried my hand at a timing belt and re-gasketing job last summer for the first time on any car and still had leaking problems so I had a local garage with a former Sub tech redo the HG's and cam covers, leaks stopped. Anyway, recently got a CEL, read the codes and it was the O2 sensor. I had a new Denso single wire one (p/n 234-1000) hanging around that appeared very similar with correct threads so I put it in. CEL gone within 5 min of first drive. Probably unrelated but not sure (which is why I gave the history above), the car was driving along fine and just quit on my son and wouldn't restart. Left it roadside for the night, stopped by in the morning and it started right up! Got to within 2 miles of home and it quit again and wouldn't restart. Came back about an hour later to tow it home and it started again and drove home. Read codes and now have code 14 - Fuel Injector Abnormal Output in the read memory mode (white connectors) but nothing in D-check mode! The FSM says that this indicates a problem with the harness for the component but not the component (in this case the injector). I unplugged the ECU and tested the continuity from connector terminals 43 and 48 (injector + and injector -) to the plug at the injector and it tested OK but the memory won't clear by the FSM procedure! I don't trust the car but my son has no choice, he need to get to work. Now the $64,000 question, is it possible that the non-Subaru O2 sensor is providing weird values to the ECU so it is cutting off the fuel to prevent engine damage? Why can't I clear this code and more importantly, can I trust the car? Oh yeah, new fuel pump last year also (another long story). Thanks for reading my saga and for any help anybody can offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 I doubt very much that the Denso O2 sensor has anything to do with your current problem. just for comparison - I have had a Denso O2 sensor in my 90 Legacy (more finnicky) for more than a year now with no issues. The FSM says that this indicates a problem with the harness for the component but not the componentThis could be a heat related issue - as in everything is fine when cold, but fails when it gets warm. The starting up/running fine after sitting makes me think it is. I would very carefully check the wiring over for signs of damage and/or corrosion. Also - age and condition of the battery/charging system? bad batteries and/or alternators have been known to cause some very strange things to happen. ...but nothing in D-check mode! D-check has a very specific sequence that needs to be followed in order to get "good" readings - the first step being to run the car up to operating temp, and since you are having problems with the car staying running, I dont expect that you would get a "good" reading from D-check mode. If you can get the car to start, my suggestion is to run the car as long as it will run. Once it "dies" check the terminals you checked previously again immediately after - I am going to guess that there will be a signifcant change in the readings immediately after it dies - this would confirm a heat related failure. hopefully someone else with more experience will chime in soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New to Soob Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Thanks for the reply. I didn't think the O2 sensor had anything to do with it but figured I'd throw it out there. Here's a brief update. The CEL is not on but the code remains in memory and will not clear by the FSM procedure. The car cold started just fine yesterday and ran for a 36 mi round trip with a hot start in the middle. When I got home the code (displayed in Read Memory mode only) still refused to clear. I guess we'll just keep running it and hoping that nobody gets left stranded anywhere. The alternator was recently replaced with a used one that's putting out 18V (the old one caused the dash to look like a Christmas tree). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 "replaced with a used one that's putting out 18V" TOO MANY VOLTS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danzick Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Hi all. I know this thread is almost a year old but it is the first one I've found that is describing anything close to my problem. You probably guessed from my name that I'm new to Subaru. I've done tons of reading so this might sound like I know more than I really do. I've had a '91 Loyale SPFI for almost 2 years and recently ran into some issues. I'm the second owner and bought it with only 68k on the odo. Has only about 75K now. Tried my hand at a timing belt and re-gasketing job last summer for the first time on any car and still had leaking problems so I had a local garage with a former Sub tech redo the HG's and cam covers, leaks stopped. Anyway, recently got a CEL, read the codes and it was the O2 sensor. I had a new Denso single wire one (p/n 234-1000) hanging around that appeared very similar with correct threads so I put it in. CEL gone within 5 min of first drive. Probably unrelated but not sure (which is why I gave the history above), the car was driving along fine and just quit on my son and wouldn't restart. Left it roadside for the night, stopped by in the morning and it started right up! Got to within 2 miles of home and it quit again and wouldn't restart. Came back about an hour later to tow it home and it started again and drove home. Read codes and now have code 14 - Fuel Injector Abnormal Output in the read memory mode (white connectors) but nothing in D-check mode! The FSM says that this indicates a problem with the harness for the component but not the component (in this case the injector). I unplugged the ECU and tested the continuity from connector terminals 43 and 48 (injector + and injector -) to the plug at the injector and it tested OK but the memory won't clear by the FSM procedure! I don't trust the car but my son has no choice, he need to get to work. Now the $64,000 question, is it possible that the non-Subaru O2 sensor is providing weird values to the ECU so it is cutting off the fuel to prevent engine damage? Why can't I clear this code and more importantly, can I trust the car? Oh yeah, new fuel, pump last year also (another long story). Thanks for reading my saga and for any help anybody can offer. Hey, it turned out to be bad fuel injector connector. Try grabbing the wires going to the fuel injecotr and tugging them around. The second I touched them the car would die. I bet that's your problem. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New to Soob Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Thanks danzik, Funny thing is the last time it died and I checked under the hood I noticed that the fuel injector connector was dangling perilously close to the accessory belts. The little plastic "shield" was missing that prevents things from contacting the moving belts. I unplugged it and tucked it in with the other wiring in that location and reconnected it and the car has been running fine since! The only odd thing is that even though I have NO warning lights lit on the dash when I do a read memory trouble code 14 comes up and I cannot clear the memory by the FSM procedure. My kid hasn't been left stranded again so it's just "keep your fingers crossed and call me if you need a ride". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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