danzick

thanks for the replys guys. sorry i forgot this forum does not send you an email notification when you get a post to a thread. no the AC was not on in the video and yes it does have AC. also, what would the IAC valve have to do with mid range? the midrange bothers me more than the surging idle.

any more ideas? its got a coolant temp sensor i got from napa about 8k ago. doubt its that. im getting an IAC code, and ive tried swapping them out and had no luck. its also really lacking on the mid range. runs great wide open, but is pretty hesetant in the midrange and i find myself wide open a lot because of it. its also off and on. does it sometimes and other times ill pull to a stop light and it idles perfectly.

so my car doesnt run as good as it used to, seems to have mid range miss, but good top end. i noticed this when i noticed the idling problems it has. when i first start it up, it idles at about 2200. i can let it sit and idle for 10 mins and it will stay idling at like 2200 even if i mess with the gas pedal. as soon as i actually drive it, i stop at a stop light and this is what it does

thanks for the info. how about trying to keep my 4wd light working on my cluster? id like to have it light up all 4 wheels like it does with the push button.

got all the parts i could think of off the donor. so a few things that i havent seen covered very well, is what is the difference from the 86 carb model that im taking it out of an my 88 spfi? and what about the diffs. are my ratios going to be all wrong?

so i have a few questions. i searched around and apparently im not very good at using the search function. the only write up i could find on a auto to 5 speed swap was for an ea1. my first question is, how the hell do you get the pedal assembly out? im not worried about breaking stuff taking it out of the old car, but i cant imagine how bad it will suck to put it back in if i cant even force it out. and i bought a donor car for 100 bucks. i have the whole car minus the engine so i should have everything i need right? what all wires do i need to jump/ re splice to make my reverse lights come on in reverse, and for it to start?

hey, thanks for the info guys, i actually talked to the guy, and he is actually taking the engine, and giving me the whole car minus the engine for 100 bucks. perfect for a donor car. and i found out its a 5 speed with dual range 4wd. ive never seen one like it in my area. anything i should be aware of when doing this switch? i know about the bolt on things, but is there things i need to plug, add ect? and he claims it was a running car, but its a total rust bucket so he is just taking the engine to put in another sub in good shape i guess.

thanks. well im gonna look into what i can get the car for first. im just going to buy the whole car so i dont have to worry about finding parts. ill take some pictures of it and post them so you can see exactly what is.

this brown sub is just a wagon like mine. i never thought about the dual range. ill have to go take another look at it? was the dual range the lever 4wd?

hm. never thought about that, the stick was wore from the sun and i couldnt read the pattern. come to think of it, i think the newer 5 speeds had a push button 4wd didnt they?

i have a a few questions about swapping them. i have an 88 spfi gl with push button 4 wheel drive. i found this old brown subaru by a friends shop and he remembers it getting parked there because something went wrong with the engine. if the clutch is good i was going to buy the car from him to get that 5 speed. my main question is, it looks older than mine like earlier 80s possibly carbureted. also wondering it has a lever for the 4wd and mine has a push button. would it swap over?

new water pump, and i decide for just 30 bucks it was def worth having all new timing belts. followed milesfox timing belt thread write up and it was very good and easy to understand. hopefully i can comfortably take it on long trips now.

thanks for the replyes guys although i already have the new water pump in. the hoses were fine. he never said he replaced the water pump. i said he said it had new timing belts 15000 ago. and that was when i bought it 12 thousand miles ago. there was no silicone in the top hole it was full of dirt and grime. you could grab where the pulley goes and free spin it really easy where the new one doesnt free spin.

thanks! well i wasnt in the mood to take the oil filter off to get to the last bolt for the covers so i just ripped it off so they dont really have a choice to go back on. now my other question. the drivers side belt is nice and tight and has no play and looks good? the passenger side looks fine but has a noticeable amount of play. is there like a tensioner you use to tighten them?

what happens if you leave the covers off? i can tell you right now the covers wont be going back on very easily(those cheesey lock nut things that lock into the plastic behind the timing covers are all stripped out and turn with the bolt so i am having to rip the timing covers off. my car sees some pretty rough conditions. between really nasty dirt roads full of mud and water and sometimes plowing through a foot of snow in 4 wheel drive would it be safe to leave the covers off?

Odometer says 265,500 on mine. gets about 25 MPG with an automatic and going 72 on the interestate.

so my water pump is shot. i had a thread awhile ago about it but still haven't changed it. water pump has been leaking for 5000 miles now. just to be sure it IS in fact the water pump how do you tell? its dripping off the timing covers onto the ground coming from the water pump area but the space is just too crammed to see a weep hole. it leaves quite the lake every time i shut my car off but only does it for a few mins than it stops leaking so thats why im thinking it is a water pump and not just a leak. and im wondering how you can tell if i should replace the timing belts? id rather not replace them if they dont need to be replaced, when i bought the car he said it had 15000 miles on new timing belts, but its hard to believe a seller so i was wondering if there is a way i can tell if i should replace them?

so im pretty sure my water pump is on its way out, every time i park somewhere i get a small puddle of coolant dripping from my skid plate. what all is needed to replace the water pump as far as labor? i did a search and found one write up, and it seemed ridiculous on all the things he had to take off?

Hey, it turned out to be bad fuel injector connector. Try grabbing the wires going to the fuel injecotr and tugging them around. The second I touched them the car would die. I bet that's your problem. Good luck!

Brand new cap and rotor too. Forgot to add that to the list.

Well I drove it home tonight (commute 60 miles a day) and on the way home it was running soo bad. Zero part throttle. It would sorta run at wot and I limped it home that way never letting off the throttle. Did a compression check and all cylinders are 150 and one is at 130. All the plugs were a good brown accept one and it was pretty black? Took all the spark plugs off while it was running and found that its firing on all cylinders. Timing belts? I wouldn't think it would run at all if they failed? Car used to run just fine when I got it. And might I add that's it tearing out the center of the air filters? Did it to my original and I figured it was a fluke and just old and I put a brand new one in and it was tore out aswell? Im guessing it has something to do with the fierce back fires?

Well when its on the interstate it will run ok but just kinda miss every once in awhile. That's kinda why I didn't think it was timing.

So my 88 gl 1.8 spfi is popping and backfiring really bad under a load. It runs fine if you can maintain under 1/4 throttle but as soon as you get in a load situation it just backfires and has hardly any power new maf sensor new o2 sensor pretty new engine coolant temp. Tried swapping distributors and didn't help. Any thoughts?

haha well thats good to hear, i really do want to change the fuel pump, but i was just tossin the idea around to see if anyone has done it incase i do need to change it out.

i think its going out because most people tell me when the pump goes with the blinker, or bogs down when the brakes lights go on, it is drawing too much amps and is on its way out. im not gonna go put one anyways, im gonna run it until it actually goes out, i was just curious if anyone has done this for when it does go out. its a 88 gl with the 1.8 spfi in it.