danzick

so i have a 3 speed automatic and it drives me nuts:horse: so im trying to atleast get as much power as possible from this car. i use it mostly for interstate driving, and it involves a steep hill i have to climb twice daily. its pretty much wide open on the interstate just to keep in in the range of 65 to 70. thats of course going up a steady incline, but not very steep. just noticeable that its up hill. so far mod wise, i have deleted both of the cats, i deleted the EGR, i made my own intake set up, with a cone filter. yes it has a heat shield , cleaned the MAF sensor, ran lots of seafoam through it, made sure all my vacuum lines were good, put a filter on the pvc breather so its not sucking oil through the intake, my fuel filter is good, brand new coolant temp sensor, brand new plugs and they are currently a perfect cardboard color, doesnt use a drop of oil or smoke at all, and i just calculated its getting 24.5 MPG. isnt that a little low? i see other posts of 28+

ok, i may have exaggerated. but like when i get on the interstate around here, its at a slight uphill, and it takes about 2 miles realistically to get up to 70. and no its not real steep. its just up hill very slightly. and i got new plugs in it also, its the mid to low rpm sorta hesitation thats bothering me. still wonderin if the crank angle sensor could have something to do with that?

i guess im just surprised they would make a car that takes like 5 miles to get to 70 mph? and i have a Crank angle sensor that keeps pooping a code. does that affect how my engine runs?

so i dont know if this is just how the cars are, but i have an 88 gl 10 wagon. it has a 3 speed automatic in it :-\ which probably doesnt help the power out. its got some mid range issues where it seems to loose a little power at mid range. i cleaned the MAF sensor, brand new CTS, fuel filter is good, and so is air filter. re built motor like 10 thousand miels ago, doesnt burn a drop of oil and the oil is very clean at 300 miles now, i took the EGR out, and i took both of the cats out.

wow that cars in awesome shape. ill just pretend i dont know how to put pictures up haha. did you notice a loss of power putting them big things on?

thanks for the reply it was helpful. so i can try taking my distribitor out and cleaning everything good before i go get another one and that might work?

anybody have a picture of their wagon with the 185/80s?

can anyone tell me what this thing is, or where it is?

its a 3 speed automatic... aka 0 to 60 time is like 2 minutes so i dont want them so big it takes all the power. how much bigger are the 185/80s?

have an 88 gl wagon, and its needing tires like something fierce. it has 175/70s on it now, and they just look sadly too small. so i was thinking some 185/70s? oh and does my car have thsese rear torsion bars i can crank up like everyone talks aabout? or was that the older style

so a code poped up on my computer saying crank angle sensor? what is that? it is seeming to run a bit sluggish, but that is probably just due to the 70 rated hp.

so i went to the junk yard today, and just swapped out the injector housing and sensors over from a loyal to my subaru. it seems to run good and im not having trouble. so how exactly do you deal with the code reading process again? when i got the car, it had the green connectors plugged in but the fuel pump was always turning on and off with the key being on. do i leave one of them plugged in while i drive it, or am i not supposed to have any connected while i normally drive? cause i unplugged the connectors, and the O2 sensor to try it, and the engine light wouldnt come on, and the only way the code would show up was if the engine was running and the green connector was plugged in? i have 2 green connectors and 2 white connectors by the way.

ok, i was reading the ecu light when i got the injector abnormal out put and they air control valve. but then, no light would show on the ecu, and my engine light was flashing at me?

i found it, but when i unplugged the 2 connectors and plugged them back in, the engine light flashes at me and no code shows up? so i just un did my ground battery cable and let it sit overnight.

so i think it might be a bad injector??? how do you mess with the connectors to read the engine codes? i dont have a black pair. just white and green connectors. and i was messing with them and code 14 and 24 poped up. which is abnormal injector out put, and 24 is like air control valve? whats that.

nope, this is an 88 gl 10 with the 1.8L non turboed efi motor. i think its spfi because it only has one injector, and in my manual it says the non turboed 88 gl 10s are spfi. and no i havent looked at the fuel pump, when i disconnect the fuel filter, gas comes shooting out, and i can hear it running. i dont know if it makes a difference, but the guy who owned it before me rigged up some toggle switch cause he couldn't figure out why the fuel pump would constantly click on and off while the key was on, and i found out it had the green connectors for the ecu read connected. and when i disconnected them, the pump noise stopped.

but why would dumping fuel in the throttle body make it want to run again. after it stranded me up my road, i let it sit for awhile and went up to get it, and it started and ran fine and i drove it right to my house??? it cant be spark, cause its not getting gas

ok, another update. after letting it sit for like 4 hours now once we towed it back to the house, it took a couple tries of starting than dying, but it eventually started and ran. so i took it a little ways up the road to see if the engine code would pop on, and it died again and wont start. its not getting hot, i can take the radiator cap off with my hand and theres lots of coolant. i just put a brand new 80 dollar cts for the ecu. and the only thing my ecu ligght does is bling 7 times real fast?

sorry i cant tell you where, but my dad used to have a Subaru way back in the day, and i just bought one and he was telling me he could have swore there was 2 fuel filters too, but the manual only shows one and he cant remember where it is. cause im having problems with bogging in mine

oh and by the way, im pretty sure its single port fuel injection. i know its fuel injected of some sort. and its an automatic. cleaned the MAF sensor with the special cleaner as well.

so i was drivin along, and it just died, and i tried starting it quite a few times and it would start for a few seconds, and than it would die.than, it wouldnt try to start at all after that. im pretty sure its fuel related. cause when i take a cup of fuel and dump it in the throttle body, it will run for a few seconds again and die. filter and pump are fine. when i unplug the filtered side of the fuel filter, gas comes flying out so im pretty sure both of those are fine.

ive heard from a few people about the CTS but napa said iwas 88 bucks. ouch. for just guessing thats hard for me to just whip out and spend not knowing for sure.

so when i first started off, the engine light comes on and it read 51, which says inhibitor switch for autos. which makes sense, then, i drive a little further and it seems to act boggy and the engine light will start flashing at me and the ecu code reader light will flash 7 times quick. i dont have a code for number 7 on the sheet i printed out?

nope, there are 2 sensors. ones for the computer and the other one is for the temp sensor. im pretty sure the one with just the one metal prong sticking out is the regular one for the gauge.

its got a really lean mixture. the plugs are white. so i dont think its the maf sensor or the o2 sensor.