tidd1340 Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 I just picked up a 5 speed 95 Legacy and the clutch pedal is close to the floor.The clutch itself is good,doesnt slip. Cant start the car with it in gear and clucth engaged,as car lunges forward. if its not running you can go through all the gears,but when it is running you cant go into any gear.Is this an adjustment,or cable needing replacement? Throwout bearing not releasing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 95 legacy should be a cable clutch. The looser the cable is, the further the pedal goes to the floor. Take a look at the adjustment on the cable at the release fork sticking out of the bellhousing. There's 2 nuts on the cable that you jam against each other once you're done adjusting. Second option, and most likely: The clutch release fork has worn through and the pivot ball has punched through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tidd1340 Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 There is a hydraulic line running from brake mater cylinder to clutch cylinder with 2 cables attached and a "mousetrap" type setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 I think what you saw was the hill holder I used to have a 95 legacy and it's a cable clutch and I've had 2 snapped cables you can rev match to shift.. it's drivable.. to start in first you put the car in 1st and crank until it's moving fast enough that it starts on it's own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tidd1340 Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 I think your right on the hill holder. Forgot all about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tidd1340 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 Looking at the adjuster,the "threaded rod" is out all the way.Is this a sign of a new cable needed..nuts are backed up against fork..ball is not pulled through.Tried turning adj. nut but cable wants to spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 (edited) do you have two nuts on the cable? one is a lock nut to keep the adjustable one from moving.. from my last time of having to replace two cables they tend to fail at the crimp near the fork or my last cable that broke the clevis pin at the clutch pedal just shattered when coming off the expressway. if the cable's not broken you need to adjust the nut adjuster to get the right engagement point for the clutch. also the cable can stretch but since I can't see the cable you need to figure out if it's broken.. In my case I used a cheap video camera and sat it down looking at the clutch fork and saw it was moving at the same time I was moving it.. And also it's been awhile but I think with you having the rod so far out the clutch it stuck to the floor.. I think it should be the other way around... It's been over a year since I had a cable clutch car but it sounds like you need to play with the adjustment more. Edited August 6, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tidd1340 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 yup, nuts are there..was able to loosen them,but the rod is out of adjustment meaning i cant get the rod end to go further out..what im wondering is is that the end of adjustment or never been adjusted and do i want the threaded part to go in toward the fork or out. pedal is near the floor and i cant seem to get a clutch engagement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Are the nuts rusted? I had an issue like that before.. I had to use something else to hold one of them while I turned the first to loosen it up. is the car movable with the clutch pedal stuck down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tidd1340 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 No, you have to start in it gear..clutch wont engage enough to shift through gears...after its running you can push pedal to floor and hold brake on and it wont stall though.but it want to move when you do that..if you drive it it doesnt slip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 In that case it sounds like you clutch cable snapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Another way to tell is when mine snapped I would bring the pedal back up with my hand and lightly press it again, if it snaps back down on it's own it's for sure snapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tidd1340 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 Cable is not snapped.I tightened adj. nut clockwise...hard to push pedal and lots of tension on clutch fork. I can get a slight engagement but clutch pedal hits firewall before full engagement..pressure plate? throwout bearing? cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Second option, and most likely: The clutch release fork has worn through and the pivot ball has punched through it. The pivot ball is inside the bellhousing and the clutch fork pushes against it when the cable pulls on the end of it. They wear into the clutch fork until it's too weak and it splits, letting the pivot push through the middle of the fork. If you pull the rubber boot off of the clutch fork where it goes into the bellhousing, you should be able to look down in there and see a formed bump in the middle of the release fork. If there's a crack running through the middle of it, that's your problem. Unfortunately you have to pull the engine or the transmission to replace it. Have an assistant step on the clutch while you look down in there. The crack may only open up when there's pressure on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tidd1340 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 Thanks for the info.I thought you were talking on the outside..ill check it out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tidd1340 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 Well you called it 91..split were the ball is inside.Are the forks available new? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 They are, assuming you have a 95 legacy L? the part number should be 30531AA111 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 It's also a good time to re-seal the rear oil separator plate behind the flywheel and do a clutch while you have it apart. If the snout of the transmission is worn where the throwout bearing rides, then a TSK-1 kit like this one: http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1793&IDCategory=271 fixes that. The wear is usually caused by one of the clips that holds the throwout bearing to the release fork breaking and letting the throwout bearing rattle. Don't replace the rear main seal. They never leak until someone tries replacing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 It's also a good time to re-seal the rear oil separator plate behind the flywheel and do a clutch while you have it apart. If the snout of the transmission is worn where the throwout bearing rides, then a TSK-1 kit like this one:http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1793&IDCategory=271 fixes that. The wear is usually caused by one of the clips that holds the throwout bearing to the release fork breaking and letting the throwout bearing rattle. Don't replace the rear main seal. They never leak until someone tries replacing them. I hate to bring this up in this thread but why is that TSK1 kit so expensive for something that only looks like $60 in parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 It's a low volume custom machined sleeve with a step and pair of set screws in it, so that drives up the cost. Then the throwout bearing and clip is probably another $40 or so of the cost. It's fair for what it is, and it works great. Much better than putting up with the incessant rattle and random binding of a worn stock snout, or replacing the whole transmission case to set back the clock on the wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tidd1340 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Thanks for the info guys.Its a decent little car 2.2 with only 130,000 on it and im into it for 500.00 so I'm going to fix it.While the motors out Ill do timing components,seals and water pump.Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fubaru Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 (edited) You should also crawl under the dash and check the mount bracket for the clutch pedal and the pin that holds the cable to the pedal. the brackets can wear out and collapse. The bracket collapsing can cause the pedal to hit the firewall without disengaging the clutch. The pins sometimes wear down causing excessive play in the pedal. I went through a lot of bs with my 85 hatch before discovering this. Just something to look at while you are messing with everything. Edited September 1, 2011 by Fubaru additional info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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