Mines leaking pretty bad along with the oil pump or front crank seal, is it possible to get the oil pan off while in the car it looks likes its possible but not sure. thanks

It sure can.

 

Skid plate must be removed, and if your car still has the splash shields, removing then will help.

 

All of the bolts are accessible. The rears are accessible using a long phillips screwdriver through holes in the subframe.

I can honestly say I JUST did this 2 days ago on my EA82 sedan.

 

For some reason, the holes in the cross member didnt match up and thus were a PITA to remove the back 6.

 

My advice (advice I was given from GD)

 

Jack up the front end. put it in some jackstands.

Take both engine mount bolts off.

Jack the transmission up (with the engine) as high as you can get it to go.

Start removing bolts. I think theres like 15 or something?

When you get the cork gasket from the dealer (if you do an OEM gasket, I recommend it) get some ultra gray RTV and make sure you coat the gasket in RTV... let it stand over night, or at least a few hours til its no longer tacky. (I suppose you could put a fan or heater on it and get it to dry quicker)

Then put it on, this way the gasket doesnt get all hard..

 

By the way... getting the old gasket off IS a pain in the neck...

 

I had to do a reseal because the jack slipped and crushed the oil pan, had to pound it out and I didnt use a gasket, just used RTV and 2 days later, no leaks, so I think my job went well, but the dealer gasket is sooo much better.

 

When you put it back in, get ALL the bolts started about half way before beginning to tighten them... the last few wont line up 100% so you have to slide the oil pan a tiny bit to get a bolt in, but it will all work out.

Jack up the front end. put it in some jackstands.

Take both engine mount bolts off.

Jack the transmission up (with the engine) as high as you can get it to go....

 

ea81 transmission mounts are whimpy so if/when you do this you should also unbolt the transmission mounts so you don't damage them when you jack up the engine/trans. There are two 14 mm nuts in the underside of the transmission crossmember. If you remove them along with the engine mount nuts then the engine/trans can be jacked up a bit.

 

I did this recently too and did the RTV coating as well. I used Ultra Black which should be fine and let it dry overnight. I also put a slip-coat of aviation anaerobic form-a-gasket on it right before install. Just make sure you don't torque the oil pan bolts too much.

 

 

When you put it back in, get ALL the bolts started about half way before beginning to tighten them...

 

+1

Good info right here, I'm about to reseal the oil pan on my 1984 BRAT. I was going to start a thread but everything I need to know is here.

 

Thanks guys.