I just experienced the Joy the the DOHC engine last week. Dealer tells me I probably have a cracked head, as I have air entering the cooling system, as well as some oil mixed in there. I don't know how those symptoms rule out the possibility that it is just a head gasket(Do any of you?), but the dealer can't reliably test the heads for cracks, so their reccomended fix is two new heads, at a price of $1800 for parts, plus $1400 labor.

 

At this point I ask, what not just throw in a new long block?

 

The dealer tells me Subaru does not sell their engines as long blocks.

 

Can anyone point me to a source for Long block configurations of the 2.5L DOHC engine?

 

Can anyone give me any pointers on how to most inexpensively fix this problem? I'm open to fixing it and selling the car, but not to trying to off loading the car onto some other unfortunate soul, or an unsuspecting dealer.

 

 

Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

Joel

Colorado Component Rebuilders (CCR, Inc.) I think Emily (the proprietor?) posts here from time to time (username="ccrinc", if I'm not mistaken).

 

P.S.

 

Go for a SOHC 2.5, if possible.

Myles, does anyone sell Long Block SOHCs? Also, what else would you need to change to adapt the 97 to a SOHC(I'm thinking about the car's computer maybe?)

 

Thanks,

 

Joel

Sorry, I rushed and only read the PS. I'll check out CCR.

Another option is wrecking yard. Some of them will tow your car and install a motor out of a fairly new car and give warranty.

What's a "short block"? Block, pistons, con. rods, crank shaft?

 

What's a "long block"? The above plus heads and valve train?

 

Does either typically include accessories (A/C, alternator, PS pump)?

My understanding is that a short block includes :

 

The block, Cranks, cams, lifters and Oil Pump Assembly.

 

Long Blocks include all of that plus pistons, valve train and Heads.

:wave: check out http://www.asapmotors.com there in texas and sell low mileage japanese motors. goog luck

shops in that area are too lame to be able to test your heads plunk them in a box and send them to CCRNC to be checked and rebuilt. If they they say they are good you should be fine. Is UPS too lame to send them?? I am amazed because I could test them in my garage and I don't have a whole machine shop.

The dealer sends the head out to a local machine shop. Apparently the shop is ill equipped to test the heads. A cousin of mine is an automotive engineer, and says the only way to truely examine the interior of a head is to have it x-rayed.

 

Also, I was told on another forum that aluminum heads can be fragile and could be damaged in shipping. You should be able to package for that right?

I have an industrial X-ray interpreting background, and it is quite possible to miss a crack in material with X-ray. If your film catches a flaw on edge, it shows up fine, Viewed more direct on, It will be invisible on the film. A dye penetrant exam is a better method for finding cracks of the type one would expect to cause a coolant leak. That said, the established way to check cylinder heads is to pressure test them as has been discussed. If the gasket isn't leaking and they pressure test fine, they will normally be fine in service. My observation on this thread is that We get a new head gasket discussion a couple times a week and talk of cracked cylinder heads is rare. I would stick with a head gasket theory unless the engine was badly overheated, or a physical exam shows the crack. The air entering the engine symptom is the same in either case.

Most likely it is a gasket. On big diesels we inspect what we can visually and with dye.

Then you just make an adaper to seal it and pressure the heck out of it. This is not rocket science.