I have a 1992 with a 2.2 L engine non turbo. I has been poping codes since i bought it about a month ago

the jerk who I bought it from coverd the check engine light with a piece of black electrical tape so it wasnt immedatly apprent that there were codes present. i first got codes of 23, 32, 14,15,16,17 35 and 42. I changed the purge control valve and then cleared the codes. I also thought of changing the o2 sensor but when I looked at it it seemed new looking so I decided not to change it. I noticed that at idle it "surged" so I drove it a few miles around town and the CEL came on again. I pulled the codes again and got 32- o2 sensor, 23,maf sensor and 21 ect sensor I cleaned the Maf sensor and checked the temp sensor and it was out of range at specified temp so I changed it also. I drove it again and it poped codes again. this time it was 32, 11 crank sensor and 13- cam sensor. so I thougnt would check both the sensors I"v been looking in my repair manual for resistance specs for the camshaft and crankshaft sensors I thought that before I fork out severl hundred dollars for new sensors I would check them out. Anyone know??

 

I was also reading some other artilces and noticed that when the timing belt is change it is imperative that the marks on the camshaft are lined up correctly. could it be that someone before me changed the timing belt and got it off by one mark and that is causing the "surging" at idle and the cmp and ckp sensor codes??

Edited December 5, 201114 yr by mwbean

Anything that doesn't indicate a broken circuit is good, but the sensor outputs are more important than resistance specs. Check each with an analog multimeter set to AC and look for the needle to jump. There is a pattern to the "jumps" which can you find in the FSM which you can find by looking here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

 

Something like 1, 1 2, 1, 1 2, for the crank sensor

and 1, 1 2, 1, 1 2 3, for the cam sensor. Or maybe it's the other way around, I don't remember exactly.

No resistance spec in the FSM.

However,they appear to be the same part as many other subes that have a stated resistance of 1-4k ohms.

 

AC voltmeter connected to either while cranking shold see at least 0.1 volt.

 

I`d be looking at grounds w/that many codes.

Follow up:

 

I took out the cam sensor but before i took mine out i cleaned the area with carb cleaner, then sprayed

it with deep creep and left it sit for a couple of hours. When I took the screw

out it came rigtht out and the sensor housing had a light coat of engine oil

and no corrosion. does that it mean it was replaced reciently?? the conncetor looked ok but old.

 

 

when I checked it by passing a magnet it induced a votage in it but it only changed by .001 and .002 volts it that all the signal it needs??

 

I also checked the ground attached to the battery recently and cleaned the battery. I noticed another ground near the drivers side shock mount I will check it as well. any other locations for bad grounds i should be looking for??

got codes of 23, 32, 14,15,16,17 35 and 42

 

"Bingo"?

 

Sorry. back to your regular programming

PD: Did you check the engine ground near the starter?

Edited December 5, 201114 yr by jarl

Check the ground on the engine bay harness.... follow the MAF sensor lead back to the harness and then follow the harness out to the end till you find the ground(s). Those will be the main ECU grounds. Also check for grounds on the manifold itself. The manifold harness should have one that bolts to the manifold.

 

GD

For people following this thread, the spec for the '99 EJ25 says 1 and 4 kΩ for both sensors (with the sensors off the car)