cookie1 Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 92 loyale wagon 4x4 5-speed Started hearing a noise from I think is coming from the passenger side front. I replaced the wheel bearings thinking that was it and its still there. As the suspension goes up and down over slight changes in the road the noise changes some, also changes when turning as the car pitches from side to side. I know its not an outer cv joint (i have heard those before) or the wheel bearings( new). Only thing left is the inner cv joint. I have rebooted this inner cv joint twice in the past - but I caught it early both times within 1-3 days. Is there any way I can figure out if it is the inner cv joint before buying a new one and end not fixing the issue. I also have a 90 automatic loyale parts car - can I use those axles in a manual car. I think I read somewhere they are differnt but cant hurt to ask. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 do you get any steering wheel shakes. If they get real bad it will pull on the steering wheel. The inner doj takes a little longer to act up. I would expect somesort of vibration or shimmy from a doj going out. Is the handling off, like steering more quickly one way than the other? wheel bearings are tricky to feel out until they are shot. by what method did you install the wheel bearing? Is the oot ripped on the axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Dont leave out the rear driveshaft, it can throw a noise anywhere on the vehicle. Not sure though with it changing with pitch, just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Try pushing on each corner of the car to bounce it. Maybe you just have a squeaky suspension calling for some grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie1 Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Its def a rotating noise, pretty sure the suspension is good. I did notice it turns slightly faster/easier more one way then the other - what is this a sign of? The inner boot ripped twice on pass side and reapaired right away, last time was 2-3 months ago. Wondering if I should open it up and pack more lube in there and see if the noise changes at all. hope the axle doesnt need replaced - they are the last subaru remaned ones I can get according the subaru parts guy. I put the bearings in by tapping on the outer race with a 1" dia. aluminum round bar. When I do the normal wheel bearing check by grabbing the tire at 12 & 6 I get a slight knock on both front wheels. Has been this way for 6-7 yrs. I will def chack the drive shaft when I get home tonight. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie1 Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Steering wheel does shake very little - more at higher speeds, 45 and up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
952.2LX Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 I've kinda had the same problem on my 95 imp. I've had the wheel bearings replaced on the driver side and at the same time rebuilt both front axles. that was about a in Jan 2011. A couple of months later i got a new set of cheap tires. all was fine for a couple of months. Then I Had some serious vibration going on and i left it until i couldn't stand it and took it in to a shop. They said the tires i bought are the worst type to by. One tire had apparently split belts and the other went outta round?, and they said i needed a new inner tierod. So, I got two new tires from them for the front only and told them i'd replace the inner tierod on passenger side. After I drove it with new tires it had less vibration...but i could still feel it. So i replaced the inner tierod on passenger side....vibration still there...then i replaced the drivers side about a week later...vibration still there only not quite as bad. Along with this is a rotation noise at slow speed and as the speed increase's so does the vibration...but then sometimes the vibration goes a little less and then sometimes its a bit more....I'm a bit confused..and kinda have attributed it to very high milage??? I put new struts on about 2 yrs ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 About the day you posted this, I had the same symptoms. Sounded like a right front wheel bearing or axle shaft. I suggested to you the rear driveshaft. I had the time today to swap out driveshafts and it was as a I suggested to you. What did you find? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie1 Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 I didn't get a chance to look at it yet, it will be the first thing I look at though. My brother had the same issue on a gl few years ago and it all kinds of noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Its def a rotating noise, pretty sure the suspension is good. I did notice it turns slightly faster/easier more one way then the other - what is this a sign of? Thanks this is what to me is a sign of bd wheel bearings. It could very well be the rear wheel bearing. also, make sure the axle nuts and washers are installed properly, and they will lose torque if the flat washer is oriented backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie1 Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 Finally got it up in the air and checked some stuff out, drive shaft is fine as far as I can tell. When spinning the drivers side front wheel in neutral I can hear some rumbling. Pretty sure it needs wheel bearings. Last time I put in wheel bearings (pass side) it seemed much hard to get the axle thru the new ones vs old good ones - how tight is to tight? I had to take that same axle out of the new bearings (ripped boot ;P) and when doing so the inner wheel bearing came out with the axle. This is telling me the tolerance is to tight in the axle shaft and not tight enough in the knuckle. Thought I would mention this and see what people have to say. Ive done quite a few axles in different subarus and never had this much of a problem getting an axle out and back in the wheels bearing. I double checked both sides to make sure the washer is on correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 I had a similar problem with axles last spring. First, I got a 25 spline axle, and didn't realize it was the wrong one until I had it in the knuckle. It had a new outer CV joint made by NTN. It went into the axle, but it was a struggle. It really didn't want to come out, and I wound up destroying it. The only way to start it moving was with repeated blows from a steel hammer, which did the threads no good at all. Blocks of wood to protect the threads just turned into splinters. I wound up keeping that one, no way I could take it back in that state. I got another rebuilt axle, with a new outer CV joint, again made by NTN. I could not get the axle through the knuckle, no matter what I did. Wound up destroying the outer bearing, and the inner bearing came out with the axle. I took the whole mess back to NAPA, and told them I wanted an axle that fit, and my bearing back. They took it to the shop next door, and apparently it was a right bear to get the bearing off, even with a press! They had no problem at all with the replacement, as it was obvious something was terribly wrong with that axle. The next axle had a nice slip fit, it went back together in minutes, the way it is supposed to work. It did not have an NTN CV joint. The bearings went in nicely, too. Too bad this axle now has a bad inner joint. I am not looking forward to fighting with this thing again. So far, I am 2 for 2 with out-of-spec CV joints made by NTN. This is surprising, as normally, NTN makes top quality stuff. Has anyone else noticed a similar trend with NTN CV joints? Next time I buy an axle, I am taking an old bearing with me. If the bearing won't go on the axle right in the store, I am not accepting it. And if the CV joint is made by NTN, I will be even more careful to make sure it fits before I take it home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie1 Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 (edited) I have always used subaru remaned axles and they always fit just right. Taking slight pressure to get the axle seated in the bearing. My problem started with the new bearings being out of spec but still usable, didnt take quite as much to get the axle in as yours did, but still bearings should not come out with the axle. Ill check what brand the bearings are when I get back to the car. Thinking of using these bearings, any opinions? double sealed & abec-1 ( select regular for abec-1) http://www.mcmaster.com/#6207-ball-bearings/=fbzpyp Edited December 12, 2011 by cookie1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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