DirtyMech Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 Just recently read an article about "remanufactured" MC and slave cylinders on another forum. Seems most "rebuilt" cylinders today on the market aren't really rebuilt. Just new seals and that's it. Cylinders aren't even honed so good chance either one or both of the new parts you purchased have pitted bores. Figures. Thanks for the info John, that's good to know. Hopefully that's the cause of my problems xP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyMech Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 (edited) Well I replaced my slave and master cylinders with a new set and the problem is largely the same. The only difference is that the pedal doesn't go soft when I press on it slowly anymore, so that's at least one point of progress. But I still have to adjust the pedal to the very end of the master cylinder's threaded shank. Also, something I forgot to mention; there is a squeaking sound coming from the clutch that occurs when the engine is running but the pedal is not being touched. It becomes a little more high-pitched as engine speed is increased, but if the pedal is depressed slightly the squeak disappears. Any ideas on what might be causing this? At this point it's pretty clear it's not the hydraulic system; it has to be part of the clutch assembly itself. Perhaps the bearing has fallen off the fork or come apart? The car can still shift it just has a squeak problem and the pedal has to be adjusted to its maximum position. I'd like to resolve this problem in the event it could be causing excess wear on the new clutch. Edited March 20, 2012 by DirtyMech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyMech Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Just talked to the mechanic who sold me the vehicle; he's gonna take a look at it in a week when I have my day off. He sounds like a real good guy, I think he'll have no problem figuring out what it is. He thinks it's not properly bled; it needs to be "injected" in some way to get all the air out, he says. Hope that's what's going on. Can't wait to be done with this problem. xP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 I have had good success with flushing the old fluid out and bleeding the system. NOTE: keep clutch pedal in the normal range as someone already said, if you let the master go into a new area, it can damage the seal. Same goes for the Brake MC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyMech Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Yeah I already flushed it very thoroughly though; has anyone ever heard of an advanced flushing technique that requires "injecting" the hydraulic clutch system? I really wish I could do this at my house. Maybe that black stuff I saw in the master cylinder earlier was deteriorated rubber from a seal rubbed too far past its limit point. So are you suggesting I should keep the pedal adjustment point where it is currently even after fixing the main issue, in order to prevent seal deterioration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christophr Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 DirtyMech, did you ever resolve this issue? I have same problem, new HG and clutch then after a few months the clutch pedal stays in depressed position, have to pop it back up with toe. Bled the system, didn't fix the problem. No trouble when engine cold, even when warm with minimal shifting, but happens in stop-go traffic. When clutch sticks, I can pop it up with toe and then pump it a few times and it's good for a few shifts then needs pumping again. Was planning to change slave cylinder (gets hotter, heard it fails more often than master) but wanted to make sure I replaced the right one and that's why I read this post. Maybe now I'll do both... maybe also the hose? But if none of those replacements fixed your problem, then what? Thanks for help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pelle Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Did either of you figure it out? I have the same issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christophr Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Pelle, so far I replaced only the clutch slave cylinder (paid ~$40 for new). It's been a week and so far the clutch pedal returns great. It was easy (I'm an amateur, unskilled mechanic, but am a mechanical engineer and I have a Haynes book), took no more than an hour. I took off the air intake (two screws, one on each side, then two hose clamps, then about 4-5 hoses on the bottom and it comes off, don't forget to reattach all the hoses or engine may start up and stall), then I could easily reach the slave cylinder. Break loose the banjo bolt (connected to hydraulic hose on top), but don't take off yet (brake fluid may come out). Remove two bolts and pull slave cylinder away from clutch return lever. At this point I put a pan under the cylinder to catch brake fluid. Then I removed banjo bolt and hose. Then on new slave cylinder I pushed in the rod to the rubber boot (ensure correct side of rod goes in) poured a little brake fluid into it (a bit messy, do it over a pan), then attached it to the transmission with the two bolts (28 ft-lb). Then the banjo bolt with washer (torque is supposed to be 13 ft-lb, I didn't tighten enough at first and it seeped brake fluid when I bled system). Bleed the system by (a) remove cap on clutch master cylinder and top off with brake fluid and leave cap off, ( have someone pump the clutch pedal until stiff, © with rag under bleeder valve, take off rubber cap and loosen bleeder, bubbly brake fluid will blow out and clutch pedal will go to floor, (d) retighten bleeder (replace cap when done). Repeat until no more bubbles but only fluid coming out from bleeder. Top off fluid in master cylinder reservoir and replace cap. Reinstall air intake. Clutch pedal should now operate normally if problem was the slave cylinder. I'd run until engine is hot and in heavy traffic (much clutching) to make sure problem solved. If not solved my next step would have been the clutch master cylinder. Then the hose. (Also note that my rubber dust cover around the return lever was dry rotted and cracked from years of heat cycles, they're about $30 new from dealership so I just coated outside of mine in silicone, cured, and put old one back on. Eventually I'll replace, this was temporary patch.) So, another side note, I have had a check engine light on for a long time, code P0440 (EVAP system). By removing, cleaning all the hose fittings, and reinstalling the air intake housing, I apparently resolved the P0440 code. Not sure what it was, could be a hose wasn't tight, could be some oil on one of the hose fittings, who knows, but I'll take it. Best luck with fixing your clutch pedal problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 have one came in yesterday pedal stuck to floor was the master bypassing just kept airating the fluid and whould not bleed out also update the fluid to dot 4 as it has higher boiling point and dose not heatsoak as bad the slave gets hot and dot 3 cant hold up to the heat in that location Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 it ended up being a bad line that was leaking between the layers of the line was bubbled and soft the fliud was coming out about six inchs from where the line was damaged was pain to find after i changed the slave and the master found the line when i got preshsure to come up i think thiss line could be alot of the clutch problems mabee colapses inside and fails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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