As we all know older generation subarus are prone to bad rust. I had the fortune to find a decent brat with very little rust. How ever there is quite a bit of rust on the underbody most of it has not eaten through to make any holes so I am attempting to fix it all before it can become a problem, so I have a few questions. first does any one here have any advice on how to get to the rust in the channels of the underbody so that I can stop it from getting worse. second after I get it all fix I plan on Lining the bed and underbody with Rhino liner so I was just wondering if rhino liner would be a good protector and sealant for the underbody, has anyone her ever done this before. thanks in advance for all advice.

J

after doing some reading on bed liners I dont think that they are quite what I want to use. any one here know of a good undercoating that will protect the underbody from rust and damage?

Try an Areosol High-Solids base Enamel (Lots of places carry it) I'm using it on my build.

 

There is also a paintable undercoating which dries rock hard (Not rubberized) that is a good route as well.

 

Rustoleum makes a rock hard Bedliner,that you can brush on, very good stuff. Its about $30 for 1gal, but is worth it! Wal-Mart carries it in the Automotive section.

Edited May 10, 201213 yr by TheLoyale

I was thinking of the rustoleum stuff or this stuff i found on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BAK2010-Armor-Truck-Kevlar/dp/B003E21QM2

POR-15. there is no substitute.

POR-15 isn't all that great, you need to do a perfect prep-job or it will start to peel off. I wasted a lot of money on POR-15 over the years, and have found better products.

 

The Bed Armor stuff would also be good, It might be slightly rubbery like the Hurculiner, but it is very very strong. I painted a hood with it once, and you could not scratch it off.

 

What I would do is, paint the entire underside with some type of good enamel, and then coat it with the Bedliner (Lots more protection) this is the process that I am taking on my Ski wagon build.

Before you POR, spray underbody liberally with Jasco Prep and Etch. It etches the metal, allowing POR to grab. It also makes a dandy parkerizing solution.

Before you POR, spray underbody liberally with Jasco Prep and Etch. It etches the metal, allowing POR to grab. It also makes a dandy parkerizing solution.

 

This is actually a good idea, the POR will need something to grab onto, and this would most definitely work.

 

Parkerizing is usually considered to be an improved zinc or manganese phosphating process. I know they use phosphate conversion a lot on Firearms, where as back in the day they would use the "Bluing" method to form Magnetite on the steel gun.

 

ANYWAY! It all depends how much your looking to spend and how much apply time your willing to designate.

Just remove the rust before you use any enamel

great ideas, I am thinking on going the enamel and and bed armor route. I am in the process of removing the old paint and fixing all the rust with Ospho rust converter. then I will be painting. I am also fixing all the rust I can get to on the inside of the bed panels. I am planning this to be as rust proof as it can be.

great ideas, I am thinking on going the enamel and and bed armor route. I am in the process of removing the old paint and fixing all the rust with Ospho rust converter. then I will be painting. I am also fixing all the rust I can get to on the inside of the bed panels. I am planning this to be as rust proof as it can be.

 

Thats how ya do it. My boss is making paint his truck because its rusted to all hell... It's gonna be fun sanding down a big old ford truck lol

This is actually a good idea, the POR will need something to grab onto, and this would most definitely work.

 

Parkerizing is usually considered to be an improved zinc or manganese phosphating process. I know they use phosphate conversion a lot on Firearms, where as back in the day they would use the "Bluing" method to form Magnetite on the steel gun.

 

ANYWAY! It all depends how much your looking to spend and how much apply time your willing to designate.

 

Yep. And all a parkerizing solution is, is phosphoric acid @ a 5% concentration and manganese or zinc dissolved into it, heated to 195*. I do firearms refinishing as well.

Right on with the rust converter, I forgot to mention that. Another good brand to use is "Permatex Rust Converter" it comes in a white plastic bottle, and looks like Milk, brush it on, it will turn the rust black, and also put a clear/milky seal over it, you can leave it uncoated for a while before it starts to fail, so applying some type of coating over that will yield a long lasting finish.

 

it will also turn a rust scared area into something nice and smooth with no craters, for a solid seal with no pin holes.

 

I've learned a lot of what products work well with a combined effort, as I've had many failed attempts to slow down rust (You will never stop it)