ketkuFIN Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Just wondering if anyone has an oil pump shaft oilseal? What are its dimensions? isn't it just a normal oil seal or some sort of special seal? It was the source of my ea82 ticking and it was in horrible condition (cracks and missing pieces ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Are you talking about anything like in these pics?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ketkuFIN Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Yes, that is the seal i was talking about. That was the reason of my lifter tick. how long do yuou think new seal will last and will any same size seal do and what are its dimensions? Not that subaru seals are expensive but I always have to wait couple of weeks to subaru send me one when I could just get new one from any parts store I'we seen only TWO subaru leones here in finland without lifter tick, one of wich was mine after i replaced the seals it seems to be very common issue with these cars and people do not know the reason for it and lots of them have said something like: "oh, it has been sounding like that for years" maybe that was the reason I got my GL so cheap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 I can't tell you the size since I'm pretty sure I threw the old one away..will double check... and yes my 93 Loyale tick of death has disappeared...was that seal the only reason?.. dunno... I did the mickey mouse ring and the other O ring, new filter, new oil. How long does that seal last? 100,000 miles?.. dunno...longer than you'll prob own the car Looks like a pretty particular seal, the depth being as important as the diameter...and you know (you prob do) that spring laying on the table is vital to the seal. Around here I can get parts off amazon.com or ebay and have them delivered within two days...I see you're in Finland so this could mean nothing .. dunno.. Good luck...hope someone chimes in regards to how swappable these seals are.. I'll look for the old one but chances are slim.. [side note..i apologize to Ivan..I didn't re-open my valve covers to stretch that oil pressure spring...if my tick comes back I'm def doing this] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 update, finland dude: I didn't find the old seal but did find a box in the car...guess I went to the local auto parts store and had them do a cross reference (my project has been going on a while...some parts came thru ebay/amazon). This box has numbers you might need, maybe not...it's def for that seal... I also have the EA82 (93 Loyale).. Picked this up at NAPA (i can hear the groaning:) NAPA is on the box but more importantly: Oil Seal SKF (the manufacturer...made in Taiwan) #7205 (also CR 19x38x8 hms4 R) So yes, you can prob go to your local auto parts.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psylosyfer Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Hey Guy's I think I would look at a pix of a new pump on NAPA or some such website before plugging that hole! Be sure! If you decide to plug it, I had a boss who built up a main bearing journal with JB weld, and I still find it hard to believe but it held for years! gotta recommend it for inside engines. Whenever I've had oil loss and foam on dip stick, it's been heads or head gasket(s). Had a small amount of foam under oil cap last year, and had to top coolant every 1-2 months. This time I tried lazy, I bypassed my heater hoses, then ran around for a couple hours after pouring in block sealant, Oh yeah, I also had a rusty spark plug! All these problems have been gone for at least a year! sometimes luck goes your way! Sure beat pulling heads off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ketkuFIN Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Aaaand the lifter tick is back :D It went away after replacing all of the oil pump seals but yesterday it came back not as loud as it was before though... I noticed the engine was dripping oil quite a lot (maybe a teaspoonful in 10 minutes) so i went to pick up crancksaft seal and cam seals in this morning. I knew i should have replaced them aswell when i was doing the oilpump Lucky for me, its really fast and easy to get the timing belt out of the way.. Got to love the simplicity (is it even a word ) of subaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Interesting this thread is back up...after 1600 miles of no tick after complete oil seal job mine is just beginning to "flutter" again...nothing drastic (yet), not very loud and it disappears down the road but reappears randomly. No engine leaks, dry as a bone. The ONLY trick I didn't try before the re-install was Ivan's suggestion of lengthening the oil pressure springs (i think that's in this thread)....if the noise gets worse, the first thing I'll be attacking are those springs.. I have high hopes that this'll add great validity to Ivan's suggestion seeing how everything else was done except that... Not looking forward to doing this now that the engine is back in but... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 see above^^ Again, the only suggestion I didn't use from this thread was the stretching the oil pressure springs. The reason I didn't make the attempt was because I'd already tightened up my valve covers, brand spankn new rubber seals and new grommets. I was trying to eliminate a phantom engine leak and, never having done this before, I didn't want to break the new seal I'd just obtained based on what I considered a theory...figured if the tick didn't disappear after just doing all new oil seals, new oil, new filter, then I'll do the stretching trick. As stated above, the ticking disappeared but only for 1600 miles. It returned, got louder, and lingered more often.... just couldn't take it anymore. Now with the engine in, making this a bit of a pain in the rump roast (but not horrendously difficult), I proceeded to see if Ivan's idea works. I'm officially here to say: THANK YOU IVAN, YOU ARE THE MAN!! (ok..maybe it's common knowledge amongst the regulars re: those springs but Ivan was the only one who spelled it out....well...) :-)) Stretching the springs has silenced the new ticking...I did nothing else. No cocktails, no heavier oil, not even topping off the level which was getting down to the need of a quart according to the dipstick. My goal was to verify Ivan's trick...I encourage said stretching when attempting to eliminate the TOD. The unstretched springs were not putting any pressure against the head of the 14mm bolt...is this necessary(?) I dunno, but I only stretched mine enough so that when re-installing the bolt the spring was slightly fighting the re-installation ....this stretch was only a little more than 1/4"....maybe it coulda been stretched more but for now I'm one happy camper. Thank You Again, Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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