Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ultimate Subaru Message Board

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

83 subie will idle but will not take fuel

Featured Replies

I recently traded for an 83 with a pushrod 1.8 engine.

 

It will idle but when you attempt to give it gas it will spit through the carb and die.

 

THe previous owner install new guts in the distributor.

 

I reset the timing. checked the plug wire locations.

 

It has 4 PSI fuel pressure.

 

Any ideas will be appreciated.

 

Thank you

 

Texasjack

It will idle but when you attempt to give it gas it will spit through the carb...

 

Do you mean gas shoots out the top of the carb?

One tooth off on the Distributor. As soon as you rack throttle, vac drops, advances timing too far and boom, spitting through carb.

  • Author

Thank Y'all for the help.

 

It does idle rough, the distributor is rebuilt, I will disconnect the line to the distributor and check that.

 

Texasjack

Gas shoots up from the carb,

 

Yeah that's usually a timing issue. If your timing is set at 8 degrees BTDC, then I think Storydude1 is probably correct or it's at least a disty issue.

 

If you pull and re-install your distributor, just remember the rotor will be pointing directly at the electrode in the cap at 0 degrees BTDC and will be moving past the electrode at 8 degrees BTDC.

 

Also, verify that the vacuum advance is connected to ported vacuum.

  • Author

Thanks, I will restab the distributor. Line is connrctrd.

 

Texasjack

If you pull and re-install your distributor, just remember the rotor will be pointing directly at the electrode in the cap at 0 degrees BTDC and will be moving past the electrode at 8 degrees BTDC.

 

Hey texasjack, I wrote this wrong. Sorry it should be that the rotor will be pointing directly at the electrode in the cap at 8 degrees BTDC and moving past the electrode at 0 degrees BTDC.

 

I had someone talking at me when I was typing and should have paid more attention. Last night laying in bed for some reason it popped up in my brain that I might have wrote it wrong...funny how the mind works sometimes.

 

You probably figured it out intuitively, but I hope I didn't cause you any vexations.

I think chasing timing issues is not gonna get you anywhere.

 

I'd put my money on clogged up emulsion tubes in the carb. Get a 15 dollar reebuild kit and service it on the car.

 

Remove the top of the carb. Unscrew the 2 emulsion tube caps, then the emulsion tubes. Remove the plugs in the bottom side of the bowl. Unscrew the brass jets through the drain holes. Blow them all out with compressed air and carb cleaner. Pull the air horns and replace the tiny o-rings that seal them. Replace the accel plunger. Make sure to put the little check ball in the bottom.

 

Don't mess with the power valve in the very bottom of the bowl. Replace the float needle if you want, or save it for later......the old one is probably still fine.

 

reinstall.

 

Your subaru will run like it's brand new.

Edited by Gloyale

I think chasing timing issues is not gonna get you anywhere.

 

What would cause the gas to be spitting out of the top of the carb? I think the idea is to verify that the timing is proper first, then move on from there.

What would cause the gas to be spitting out of the top of the carb? I think the idea is to verify that the timing is proper first, then move on from there.

 

An intake backfire ignited by the slow burning "end gases" from an overly lean mixture,perhaps.

 

I would check the accellerator pump,carb sight glass(fuel level),timing-cap-wires-etc,and then the items Gloyale mentioned.

An intake backfire ignited by the slow burning "end gases" from an overly lean mixture,perhaps.

 

I would check the accellerator pump,carb sight glass(fuel level),timing-cap-wires-etc,and then the items Gloyale mentioned.

 

The OP recently picked up the engine. The PO re-did the guts of the disty. Seems like verifying the timing and advance would be the first step before just about anything. Any time I have seen an engine stop running with gas spitting out of a carb when gas is applied from idle (in several makes of vehicle) it's always been a timing issue. I am not saying it can't be something else, but the timing is the most fundamental setting of the engine and should be checked before anything.

 

The PO installed new guts in the disty...I doubt he works for the Philbin group, so who knows what that involved. The flywheel could even be misaligned. I doubt it would run like that, but these engines can putt through a lot of adversity. Undoubtedly, the carb should be gone through, but jumping to carb before timing is placing the cart before the horse.

 

To texasjack, is this in or going in an ea81 or some other vehicle (dune buggy, trike, etc...)?

  • Author

It is in a Loyal sedan.

 

Today I am going to do a compression check.

 

Thnak you

 

Jack

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in

Sign In Now

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.