I have a 98LGT with a 2.2 that has 150k miles swapped in.

It has a weird problem with blowing blue smoke. The only time it ever blows smoke is after it sits for 2 or more days without being driven. It doesn't burn any, leak any, etc. It also doesn't sit much as it's my DD, but lately I've been driving the GL for work related stuff. So I fired up the Legacy today, and BLUUUUUUE comes out of the tailpipe. It always clears up within about 10 seconds, and never returns till it sits again.

 

I've replaced the PCV valve and made sure none of the PCV hoses are plugged up.

I've got a 99 legacy 2.2 with 330,000kms on the dial that does exactly the same thing. I had it in my head that this was cause by worn out valve guides but I don't have any concrete backing for the theory.

 

I look forward to hearing from someone who knows more about it.

I've got a 99 legacy 2.2 with 330,000kms on the dial that does exactly the same thing. I had it in my head that this was cause by worn out valve guides but I don't have any concrete backing for the theory.

 

I look forward to hearing from someone who knows more about it.

 

Yea, I was thinking that, too.

Yup worn valve guides or valve stem seals, mine does it also on a long down hill grade with back pressure from being in gear pulls the oil past the seals

Yup worn valve guides or valve stem seals, mine does it also on a long down hill grade with back pressure from being in gear pulls the oil past the seals

Are you so sure? Mine doesn't do it if I put it in 3rd gear (auto) down hills, and it ONLY does it after sitting a while.

What about a leaky injector?

I just put in a top-end rebuilt, and after switching to Kendall GT1 20-50 because I think some of the standard "piston-slap" noise is rod bearings, I wanted to quiet it down a bit. It worked, but now it smokes a little. I hope it's from being slightly overfilled, about an 1/8" above full mark.

 

Maybe you are overfull?

My MR2 does the same thing, and I took it in and had it diagnosed as worn valve guides or valve stems. One or both of them, they weren't sure, but that is what causes that issue. It's been doing it for about 5 years now, and I haven't had any true issues with it at all. I wouldn't be too awfully worried about it

That's cool, I guess. I don't really care if the valve guides are worn. If it still runs and drives reliably, that's all I care about. heh. It's a stupid DD that sort of just works. And as long as it just keeps working, I'll be happy

 

I basically hate working on cars, and I've changed the engine, rear end, and all that kind of annoying stuff. And I don't want to fix it anymore.

Ya, just keep up on checking the oil and you should be good to go. That's what I do!

Are you so sure? Mine doesn't do it if I put it in 3rd gear (auto) down hills, and it ONLY does it after sitting a while.

 

This is the difference between leaking Intake valve seals and Exhaust valve seals. Intake seals tend to cause smoke under high vacuum conditions (such as engine braking down a hill), Exhaust stem seals tend to cause a small amount of smoke a startup then will go away for the most part. You'll figure out which seals are the cause if it starts fouling spark plugs... eventually.

On my commute, i go down a 7 percent grade in high gear,(auto in drive), Its around 10 miles, going around 65, At the bottom pulling out into traffic it will smoke so bad, to the point i can feel the plugs trying to foul, its very embarrassing, people stay way away. Best part is i got my plate called in as a gross polluter vehicle, so i had to go to a smog station here in ca, to get checked or they would suspend my registration. But it passed with average numbers, the smog tech was convinced some one called in the wrong plate. Almost every older Subaru, i see in the area does the same thing. I still cant figure out why it wont plug up my Catalytic converter. Does anyone know if these seals are replaceable with out taking the heads off?

You can replace them without removing he heads by using the old Rope trick, or compressed air fed into the cylinder at TDC. Pop the springs off and the seals can be easily pulled off and replaced.