This is hard to describe but it's a feeling along with a sound like a slight thumping and judder feeling in the steering wheel, if you quickly jerk the wheel to the right the sound changes a bit I'm not sure where to start

Check your lug nuts...

 

This just happened on my dads 1990 Legacy and then I remembered that the two left tires were replaced recently and took the center caps off and the left front (where the thump was) had 4/5 lug nuts backed almost all the way off.

Check your lug nuts...

 

This just happened on my dads 1990 Legacy and then I remembered that the two left tires were replaced recently and took the center caps off and the left front (where the thump was) had 4/5 lug nuts backed almost all the way off.

 

First thing I did.. I used the torque wrench and none backed off, I set it to 80 ft.lbs

rotor, wheel bearing, or tire.

 

If it were backing plate it would be noise but I don't see that causing feedback to the steering wheel.

 

Also could be axle. I'd yank on the axle and feel for play. Often the axle will vary from being under load to coasting(usually more vibration when under load).

 

In my experience usually the drivers side goes first for some reason. But if a boot was compromised who knows, I've even had to replace a rear axle.

rotor, wheel bearing, or tire.

 

If it were backing plate it would be noise but I don't see that causing feedback to the steering wheel.

 

Also could be axle. I'd yank on the axle and feel for play. Often the axle will vary from being under load to coasting(usually more vibration when under load).

 

In my experience usually the drivers side goes first for some reason. But if a boot was compromised who knows, I've even had to replace a rear axle.

 

Hmm Axle.. you know this reminds me.. I think these might be aftermarket? I've never seen a Subaru of these model years with grey inner cups? I had that same judder feeling in my impreza when I had it but in that car it was only when turning.. This car it happens only when loaded and highway speeds.

 

I've redid my friend's axle on his Forester and it was easy as pie, but if these are aftermarket which I suspect they are then I might have to check some yards for some axles.

 

I will see if I can get a recording but I doubt you will hear much because of road noise, it's enough to make the wheel shake for sure, and some times it will go from doing the sound to being normal again.

I've been under my share of 95-99 Subaru's and don't recall ever seeing grey boots.

 

Infact most I've "redone" had 120-200k on them and all seemed to have OEM axles but one car - drivers side. And on a 97 GT I had symptoms like yours and it was the drivers side axle.

 

I've probably been under 100 of these cars and have only seen 2 bad or replaced front axles.

 

The one that needed RR axle had a torn boot.

 

Maybe I'm just lucky, but we do have winter here and these weren't low mileage cars.

 

YMMV

The boots are black but the cups where they mate with the transmission are grey, I've never seen them that color before.. heck my rear axles are still original and I can see a little green on those.

I want to say axle now, I was driving today and on throttle at highway speed if you move the wheel quickly to the left that's when it gets louder, when it's moved to the right not really much changes, off throttle the feeling is gone.

 

I will take the recorder with me when I go out to get gas.

Sounds when turning usually mean wheel bearing.

Sounds when turning usually mean wheel bearing.

 

But only happens at highway speeds and on throttle.. going out to get gas so I will take the longer way on the highway.. hopefully you will hear something.

 

plus it does not have the wheel bearing sound.

 

plus the last time I did the wheel 2 months ago I checked for play when the tire was off the ground (push pull and no motion) Did not do the axle yet.. I assume I can do it while it on the ground?

Edited October 6, 201213 yr by 1-3-2-4

From what I've read these bearings almost never have play unless they are about to completely fall apart.

Don't they make a knuckle with everything done so all you need to do is just mount it? Just curious.

A bearing can still be tight but be bad. I just did wheel bearings yesterday. The driver side was obvious, very sloppy, but the passenger side not as much. The bearing was tight, wasn't able to move any of the parts, but when you rotated the hub it sounded dry and spun much too easily. A good wheel bearing should be quite, smooth and actually be just a little tight to rotate (as in it shouldn't just free wheel if you give it a good spin). Wheel bearing noise can sound a lot like a noisy tire, the axles usually click. But, since you are pulling the axle to check it you will easily be able to check both the bearing and the axle.

It's a bit cold this morning but I'm going to go put the front end up I will report my findings.

well so much for the rain starting at 3 pm..

 

Anyways I checked again no play in the wheel bearing but I can't really check side to side and know for sure because with the front end up and the wheel lock it still had play..

 

meanwhile I checked the tierods and tried to push/pull up & down and in & out and I felt no play..

 

What I did feel a little play in was the axles.. I don't have a baseline to go by in how much it should be but I felt play in/out and I can't remember if I had some up & down.

Bad tire.

'ow so?

 

Sorry, been watching too much "Are You Being Served?" :-p

haha, question the outback wheels are they alloy or aluminum? I need new tires anyways down to the wear bars..

Both. :-p Aluminum wheels = alloy.

You will almost never find straight up pure aluminum wheels. There are always other metals mixed in to alter the strengths of the aluminum. Pure aluminum is brittle, and brittle is bad in a wheel.

Ah, gotcha!