Some goo is seeping out of a crack on the rubber insert on my crank pulley, and it's starting to rub the case.

 

Biggest piece of info I'm looking for- is there a magic spot on the flywheel where the crank can be held?

 

2nd- I assume the oil seal rides right on the pulley like on every other chain-driven cam engine?

 

I assume the pulley is different from the H4s.

Yes entirely different. The H6 pulley seal is between the inner pulley section and the timing chain cover. There is also a cover on the front of the pulley that has an O ring behind it. Apparently oil leaks past the threads of the bolt and the cover is there to hold it in the pulley.

Hmmm, will have to look closer, I don't see what looks like a cover on the pulley.

 

Not sure what you mean by the oil seal- does the oil seal ride on the pulley?

 

Is the oil seal accessible when you pull the pulley?

As I understand it, the front crankshaft oil seal rides directly on the pulley. Similar to most american V engine designs.

This leaves the rear section of the pulley open which can apparently allow oil through the center. The cover is held to the front of the pulley with 4 bolts.

 

Front crank seal:

Edited October 28, 201213 yr by Fairtax4me

I haven't seen mine, but based on catalog images and application lists, it appears to be a regular seal that rides on crankshaft sealing journal. Is there any other way?

The seal rides against the inner hub of the harmonic balancer.

The inner hub is a polished smooth surface just like the crankshaft journal.

Edited October 28, 201213 yr by Fairtax4me

Thank you for the pictures. I thought you were saying that the seal was sitting against the flat surface of the pulley. Now I see what you mean.

Huh, no cover on the front of my pulley, no oil leaking either.

 

That must be belt-and-suspenders if you use a little sealant on the crank.

this has been coming up on some Forums lately so, thought i would ask here; Is there an aftermarket lightweight pulley replacement option like the Impreza guys all have?

Not unless the performance crowd got ahold of a 6 banger.

 

That must be belt-and-suspenders if you use a little sealant on the crank.

My thinking as well. The bolt on bits are just extra weight. A little RTV behind the crank bolt washer would solve the whole problem.

 

Back to the original question, since we kinda skipped over it...

Holding the crank still I would guess can be done in a similar way to the 4 cyl engines. Look for a hole in the side of the bellhousing to stick a large screwdriver. Otherwise, a prybar in the inspection cover should do it. Or the handy-mans secret weapon, Duct tape.

Turns out there are 4 12mm dia holes in the pulley that a factory crank holder uses, looks like they are on a 65mm dia circle, I'm going to build a tool that uses 3/8ths bolts for a little slop (7/16ths would fit).

Well, if it's strong enough and I didn't mess up the bolt circle, I should be good to go.

 

I used 3 pieces of 16ga sheet steel, brazed together at the edges and around the clearance hole for the crank pulley bolt socket, 4 3/8ths grade-8 bolts brazed in place on the top only. If they twist I'll have to braze them at the bottom as well, didn't do so because I don't want to weaken them.

I thought I had read of some holes in the flexplate that can be used to hold the crank still.

 

also, what about a 'starter bump' for loosening? anyone try that with the H6?

I decided since there was a tool, and a pic of the tool, and I love an excuse to fab something, and there's less chance of introducing a new problem, and I hate digging around on the back of the engine, I'd fab something.

I got the pulley from the dealer, but I hope I don't need the oil seal or the bolt-cap, they didn't order them.

 

Looks like I'll be putting some silicone sealer on the crank before putting on the pulley so oil doesn't creep out (like on every other timing-chain engine).

 

My pulley holder fits OK, though.

Well while changing the oil pan I see I'm paying for the dealer forgetting to order the oil seal and doing the job without it- now I get to do it all over again and put in a new oil seal.