Hey guys, after 6 months of having my car on forester struts I decided it wasn't tall enough. So I jumped on a  used 6" SJR kit Scott had for sale and am most of the way through installing it. Just need to do the front struts, radiator hoses, dogbone, and shift linkage and she should be ready to go. I don't work tomorrow so most of that will get done if not all.

 

here is where I called it a night, got all the body blocks in and the rear strut tops. 

 

this thing is gonna be big, I'm super stoked on it

 

Wow, that really sits up there.  Keep posting more photos as it goes!

sweet.

cant wait see more pics of progress tomorrow night.

will do guys! im really happy I bought it. it sits really high, but part of it is the optical illusion of my fenders  being cut. I wouldnt have cut them if I knew I was going to get this, but whatever, just adds to the gnar hah

Lots of little bullshit problems today, got another tire on the ground and radiator hoses and made a solid dogbone mount out of 1" tube. Might have to find something else, but we'll see how it does. I'm working all weekend so I hope it'll be all finished by tuesday.

 

got here back on all 4's. got radiator hoses fitted and made a dogbone mount out of 1" square tube. not sure if it'll work or not because it doesn't flex and whatnot. TRON, do you have any pics or info on the one used in your car? if I end up using the one I made, I have to get a phase 1 intake to mod to fit MAF cause my airbox wont fit due to the way the dogbone sits. also gotta work on a tranny linkage, probably using the 1" square tube again.

I believe mine is a welded/extended dogbone bolted to stock location on the engine and firewall.

Im pretty sure I do not have a stock bone on a custom droped firewall mount.

My engine is a 93 1.8 phase 1 with the air box on the passanger side up front.

 

looks sweet man

Nice. Yeah i think i'm gonna try my solid mount out and see if i get any crazy vibrations I think the phase one intake will have enough room because the air box is located on the pass side instead of right on the intake manifold. so im gonna gonna pick up a phase one intake from the junk yard and find/make a place to stick the MAF sensor. its super tall now, I cant wait to park it by a stock imp. 

 

just realized one important thing lol I feel like a goddamn idiot. the steering joint.. I forgot to put it in. so Im gonna drop the front subframe again tomorrow and do that..

You don't need to drop crossmember to install steering joint.

 

Column side has a long slot, slide the coupler up onto it as far as possible, then tuck it back down onto the rack end. Make sure to set the wheel straight and the tires straight then hook it up.

ok bad rump roast. sounds good. How are you guys extending your shift linkages? I'm trying to put mine together on the top half to see how long I have to extend it and it looks like I'll have to extend the stay rod part as well? it doesn't quite match up. I don't have access to a welder, so is there any other way to do  this?

I didnt extend any of my shift linkage, I just simply lowered it.  I used angle iron, 3 inches long and drilled 4 holes in it.  basically it drops the mount that holds the rubber bushing that supports the rear of the shift linkage.  Took about 20 minutes from start to finish.  All gears worked fine, but I did have to remove about 3/4 of an inch of body metal to get into 2/4/R.  The nice thing is the shifter is a hell of a lot lower than a stock 5mt shifter

 

 

I've got the same lift you have, but mines on a 98 Leggy OB

 

 

And theres no reason to drop anything to do the steering shaft.  If its built/extended right you can get it in and out just by removing the 2 pinch bolts. 

Edited February 28, 201313 yr by torxxx

ah I see. well i'm making a trip up to bellingham to see Scott tomorrow and we're going to do a trade for the modified linkage and dogbone for my stock steering knuckle and linkage. the steering shaft was extended by Scott, so I'm guessing its done right haha.

 

I WANT TO DRIVE MY CAR ALREADY

While you are up there, get Scott to make me 2 7" rear strut extensions   Tired of the rear of my wagon sagging

5MT shift linkage can be lowered but not the D/R.  That is a pain in the @ss.

How exactly is it lowered? Can you take a pic of yours? Scott gave me one that a guy extended but the linkage is binding or something. Won't go into any gears.

 

I might just buy a stock one from the p&p and copy you

I haven't had the 5MT installed for a long time so no pics.  I might still have the extended linkage around somewhere.  If I do,  you can have it.

That would be awesome man. That's literally the only thing keeping my beast off the road right now! Everything else can be tweaked as i go.

 

i still have 1" strut spacers I might throw on the rear because of th gnarly rump roast sag but I want to drive around and see if it settles in the front a bit first

That would be awesome man. That's literally the only thing keeping my beast off the road right now! Everything else can be tweaked as i go.

 

i still have 1" strut spacers I might throw on the rear because of th gnarly rump roast sag but I want to drive around and see if it settles in the front a bit first

That would be awesome man. That's literally the only thing keeping my beast off the road right now! Everything else can be tweaked as i go.

 

i still have 1" strut spacers I might throw on the rear because of th gnarly rump roast sag but I want to drive around and see if it settles in the front a bit first

That would be awesome man. That's literally the only thing keeping my beast off the road right now! Everything else can be tweaked as i go.

 

i still have 1" strut spacers I might throw on the rear because of th gnarly rump roast sag but I want to drive around and see if it settles in the front a bit first

ok bad rump roast. sounds good. How are you guys extending your shift linkages? I'm trying to put mine together on the top half to see how long I have to extend it and it looks like I'll have to extend the stay rod part as well? it doesn't quite match up. I don't have access to a welder, so is there any other way to do  this?

 

Grind the mounting ears off the shifter, and weld them back on about 3/4 of and inch further up the shaft.  This will make a short shifter.

 

this will give you shorter throws, which help if tyou are lowering the whole assembly.  The D/R still becomes an issue if you drop it down more than an inch.

 

HOwever, I really think your first thought is the way to go....It's what I did for my wheeler...... extend both the shifter rod, and the stay rod.  Additionally, doing the short shift mod at the same time is still a great idea.

It is very close to working now. it can kind of shift now, but I think I need to shorten it a little bit to shorten the throw. 2nd, 4th and Reverse  arent quite engaging because the shifter shaft is hitting the back end of the square hole in the car (idk name) but other than that the car is ready to go. I threw the 29's on and it looks mean as spoob!!!

 

 

 

i'm pumped. trying to drive it later today!!!

nice!

Its oficialy spring in off road subaru land!

go get it dirty and take pics while doing so.

I got the shift linkage to work by cutting the bak end of the tranny tunnel a bit. Now I can shift but I MIGHT need a new clutch. It was fine going into the garage a month ago but I noticed it felt like it was slipping. I need to replace a rear axle too.

I tried taking it around the neighborhood and it wouldn't go back up the hill so I had to get a tow back to my house lol. I guess it's d/r time

 

 

Edited March 18, 201313 yr by wagonryan

That thing looks sweet!