I've never had the egr code cause any noticeable effects on drivability.

Took a closer look at my suspected bad MAF sensor today. A good magnifying glass revealed melted plastic coming up at the base of the tiny goal post's (for lack of a better description) the hot wires are attached to. That tinder dry air filter catching fire last month sure didn't help. Of course my tendency to set ignition timing incorrectly hasn't helped much either. I admit I've had a history of making consistent mistakes in equations while studying algebra. Ha Ha. Musta been the telephone pole replacement I got billed for back in the 70's? Nevertheless I made the 150 mile round trip yesterday (in my 1990 ej22) to pick up a known good MAF in Mt. Vernon.... only to discover the configuration of the hold down screws are a tenth of an inch different from the holes in the aluminum housing my wagon has. The MAFS have the same exact Hitachi part numbers too. Sheesh!

Edited October 26, 20169 yr by darsdoug

Finally got the new MAF sensor in but now I am plagued by a continuous high idle after reaching operating temp. It idles at 3000 RPM and the only way I can get it to come down is by pulling the IACV 5/8" hose out of the air intake duct. That brings it down a bit to 2500 RPM. I can bring it down another 500 RPM if I pull the PCV hose that comes from the passenger side valve cover by pulling it out of the air intake duct. Which do you think is the problem? The CTS or the IACV? Yes, the idle mixture adjustment screw and the throttle body idle screw has made no difference..

Test the cts. Ohmmeter is all you need. If the sensor reads correctly, check the wiring and connectors.

 

The numbers are in the fsm, and a thread or 2 on this forum.