I was changeing shims in a 99 outback yesterday in position is a pain but not imposible took 2 hours to adjust #2#4 ex and intake same deal buddy had mixed up lifters and was ticking and misfire codes on #2#4 so i meshure the clearance do the math and determine the shim to use { have a bin of shims for this] but big diference in how it ran after. I used a small prybar to hold bucket down while i poped shim out and used a magnet to remove it. Making shure the ps in cam arrow was in the right position for addjusting the accoding clys valves

In my case I would just need to work on Cyl 4 in order to be within spec However I don't know if it's the intake or exahust shims I want to say intake however.

put a feeler in and see what the clearance is the one yesterday was 0.35 on intake brougt it down to 0.20 and exhaust was at 0.10 broght it up to 0.25 meshure with fellers to the largest one that will fitt then you know how mutch to add or - in 0.20 ex 0.25 mm I like them big prevents bunt valves and promotes smoother running

put a feeler in and see what the clearance is the one yesterday was 0.35 on intake brougt it down to 0.20 and exhaust was at 0.10 broght it up to 0.25 meshure with fellers to the largest one that will fitt then you know how mutch to add or - in 0.20 ex 0.25 mm I like them big prevents bunt valves and promotes smoother running

Is this going to require another valve gasket change? I JUST replaced them like 3 months ago because the brand I had before were pretty much crap.

 

I have to bring out the manual to see what the spec numbers are. I heard ordering from the dealer is going to take a few days since they don't ever keep them in stock.

took me 20 dead 2.5ds to get 75 shims to make my own shim kitt I always seem to be short on the thiner sizes. Is ok if a bitt loose will make noise but will not hurt anything if to tight problem this will burn valves

Well I'm going to get a free pin for the tensioner, I'm doing the belt on my friend's '02 Forester and I will have a pin to keep just like I kept the clutch alignment tool from my clutch kit.

 

I will have to check the shims when I replace the TB cover for the drivers side

Did the TB on my friend's '02 Forester I grabbed his pin from the tensioner. Should last me a long time, mine tensioner should be here Tuesday or Wednesday.

All done, yes it's smoother, not too happy with the ebay belt wear so I'm going to replace that before I make the drive to N.C.

 

 

Anyways here is the old part.

 

Thanks for posting that pic.  I've never seen that before.

Yeah first I've ever happen to me before, I was kind of dumbfounded when it happened.

Holy crap you are not going to believe what happened this morning, I was driving along a two lane road coming up to a light and a women and her child decides NOT to cross at the cross walk but between cars, I had no time to clutch in so I just hit the brakes to the point where I almost locked up, so when I eased off and went back on the throttle the car sounded like it was missing bad..

 

Long story short the car died and it sounded like I loss compression (I did) on the passenger side.. turns out the cams for that side must of jumped like 5-10 teeth, I was like WTF... all I can say is it must of been belt slack, I wont rule the rubber gasket that I saw somehow laying on the tooth side of the belt right near the crank sprocket..

 

I heard no odd sounds other then the lack of compression because the cams were off, I'm glad I had my tools with me, When I put the belt back on for just getting home I have some crazy rough idle, again 1 & 3 I might of been off again since I was more in a rush to get out of meter parking, just glad I was on level ground and it took almost no effort to get the car moving off the main road.

 

So I just ordered a Gates timing belt on Amazon using my prime membership which will be here tomorrow

 

 

it could of been far worse.. the longest part was having to walk to home depot because I left my other C-clamp at home...