Hello All,

 

It has been awhile.  I installed a lift kit that was provided on the other topic.  The kit has been cool and works great.  I tore a CV boot and removed the axles.  I replaced the boot and I can't for the life of me get the strut pulled in far enough to the center to reinstall.  What am I missing here?

 

Eric

 

Is the axle all the way in the hub? The axle nut will pull it through once tightened.

 

Perhaps the DOJ side is hyperextended and is not seating at the bottom of the cup.

A good, hard kick. From what I understand, you're trying to get the bottom part of the strut assembly to line up with the hole on top of the steering knuckle (the whole hub assembly). If this is what you're trying to accomplish, I've been in the same predicament.

I find it's best to get both the bottom of the strut and that hole in the knuckle at 45 degree angles to eachother bowing outward toward you if you're sitting facing the side of the car. Then, and I've done this every time I had to get it back in there, I plomp down on my rump roast, brace myself good, and give it a good hard swift kick inward. Usually takes two or three tries. Typically gets it to the point where it's like 90 percent lined up and then I can give it a bit of a nudge to the left or right that pops it all in to place.

That's how I've gotten it done anyhow.

*edit* noticed you're working on a lifted rig. Although the same general principle applies, I imagine there might be a bit more tension there than with a stock set-up and it might require harder kicking.

Kicking solves many things. Even getting my headlight to come back on.

Edited August 13, 201312 yr by l75eya

Is the axle all the way in the hub? The axle nut will pull it through once tightened.

 

Perhaps the DOJ side is hyperextended and is not seating at the bottom of the cup.

Yes, It is on and secured....

 

Thanks,

Eric

A good, hard kick. From what I understand, you're trying to get the bottom part of the strut assembly to line up with the hole on top of the steering knuckle (the whole hub assembly). If this is what you're trying to accomplish, I've been in the same predicament.

 

I find it's best to get both the bottom of the strut and that hole in the knuckle at 45 degree angles to eachother bowing outward toward you if you're sitting facing the side of the car. Then, and I've done this every time I had to get it back in there, I plomp down on my rump roast, brace myself good, and give it a good hard swift kick inward. Usually takes two or three tries. Typically gets it to the point where it's like 90 percent lined up and then I can give it a bit of a nudge to the left or right that pops it all in to place.

 

That's how I've gotten it done anyhow.

 

*edit* noticed you're working on a lifted rig. Although the same general principle applies, I imagine there might be a bit more tension there than with a stock set-up and it might require harder kicking.

 

Kicking solves many things. Even getting my headlight to come back on.

I will give it a whirl.  What does DOJ stand for?

 

Thanks,

 

"Eric

double offset joint

Got it finally.  When I installed the lift I had all the springs compressed but all the lower ball joints were still connected.  Yes, it was tough to reassemble without the strut compressors.  I kicked the snot out of it an connected the lower control arm first then aligned the horizontal bolt.  Thanks again!

 

Eric

I recomend undoing the small clip, on the inner CV joint......then slide the small end of the boot up the shaft, and reclamp.  This will keep the inner boot from stretching all the time and ripping.

 

I do this any time I install an "Greater than stock angle" lift kit.

I recomend undoing the small clip, on the inner CV joint......then slide the small end of the boot up the shaft, and reclamp.  This will keep the inner boot from stretching all the time and ripping.

 

I do this any time I install an "Greater than stock angle" lift kit.

I am going to do this tomorrow.  Thanks!