I am having trouble removing alloy wheels from 2 hub-centric cars (a 92 Legacy and a Mazda). 

 

I have had near-zero experience with this combo, and accept that they might be hard to remove from the Leg, which has had them in place for years.  But the Mazda's were put on just a couple weeks ago, and I used a little grease/lubricant to try and prevent this problem.

 

So... First, what is the best way to remove them?  Second, what is the best way to minimize this issue in the future?

 

Cheers!

others have posted a suggestion...disclaimer, i don't recommend this, don't do it.  short & scary version is loosen the lug nuts and drive it.  longer version would include proper considerations, safety, etc...

 

wire brush, clean up, and smear your favorite stuff on there...antiseize, grease, etc.

Hehe. +1

 

I've had pretty good luck loosening the lug nuts, and just tightening them ever so slightly, then let the car roll forward a foot and slam on the brakes. Only once have I had to actually drive any distance to free one wheel up.

 

Before doing that you might also try placing a 4x4 against the rim/wheel and pounding on it with a 2-3lb hammer. Works if they aren't too stuck together.

 

I've been coating the surfaces with anti-sieze and so far so good.

For the Leg, choosing door #1 (the one with the tiger behind it) is not a viable option, as it was a teenager-meets-tree acquisition.  For the Mazda, door #1 is out, as the lady behind door #2 would push me through door #1 if I did this with her car.

 

So, it sounds like I am reduced to whacking with a big hammer...  Kind of lacks elegance and finesse.

 

I thought that I was clever with the Mazda when I liberally coated all contact areas with the grease-at-hand (white lithium-based).  Yet, a week later they are stuck solid.  Sigh.

For the Leg, choosing door #1 (the one with the tiger behind it) is not a viable option, as it was a teenager-meets-tree acquisition.  For the Mazda, door #1 is out, as the lady behind door #2 would push me through door #1 if I did this with her car.

 

So, it sounds like I am reduced to whacking with a big hammer...  Kind of lacks elegance and finesse.

 

I thought that I was clever with the Mazda when I liberally coated all contact areas with the grease-at-hand (white lithium-based).  Yet, a week later they are stuck solid.  Sigh.

"whacking with a big hammer" on the TIRE ONLY is what tire guys try first. Bottle jack with 4x4 next.

I place a 2x4 against the rim/tire so it touches in 2 places, then beat on it with a hammer.

 

I have found if you have the black/grey very-hard corrosion (that will not wire brush off) it will stick even with anti-seize.

 

The hard black corrosion must literally be chipped off. I used a round metal rod and hit it with a hammer, the corrosion broke like glass.

 

The 'ring' on the hub must be very clean and it does not really need a lot of anti-seize.

I haven't met one in years that I haven't been able to "finesse" off with a few stern mule kicks.

I'm on the West Coast... all of our mules are pretty laid-back.

 

For the beating on the sacrificial block with a big hammer, are we all talking about from the car-centerline side of the rim, or are some (as it sounds to me) talking about it from the lug-nut side?

Edited September 2, 201312 yr by NorthWet

Loosen the lugs, stand back and kick the top of the tire.

 

On the worst I've ever seen one tech held a wooden block (several feet long) on the back side of the wheel while the other swung a 3lb sledge at the block. Only took two hits to dislodge it, but they had already spent several minutes pounding around the front of the wheel trying to get it loose.

 

Generally a swift kick will get them loose. Sometimes you have to spin the wheel and kick in a different spot.

yours will probably come off without much worries, i've only seen 3 out of many that are really bad. in those cases i kicked, rotated, kicked, pried with a 6 foot digging bar, kicked probably 50 times.....and got nothing. 

On the Legacy, kicking it has produced nothing... and I have a pretty strong kick and a lot of mass to back it up.  A 2x4 prybar didn't do any good.  I haven't tried my digging stick yet,

 

I am a little leery about applying too much impact, as I seldom use jack-stands when doing minor work.  I have dirt/mud work areas, and lifting high enough for jack-stands can be an adventure.  With the SVXs, I have to use a low floor jack to lift it up enough to get my higher lift floor jack under it...

 

I REALLY want to prevent this on my master's Mazda, as my death will not come soon enough to prevent decades of her wingeing if she gets a flat tire.  So, abrasive cleanup of both hub and rim, then grease or antiseize?

 

I will try your suggestions tomorrow.  I have already had to replace one defective/brand-new ball joint, and something(s) is(are) clunking around worrisomely.

 

Cheers!

Yes to antiseize or some other form of anti-corrosive heat resistant grease. Be sure to coat both the wheel and the hub with the stuff. If you can get it clean enough you can paint the hub with a thin coat of rustoleum, then apply grease over the rustoleum after it dries.