Was running great yesterday when my dad was driving to the gas staition then once we were done filling up it up it didn't start and no lights showed on the dash so i undid the plugs on the ecm then pluged them back in then gigled a few others and nothing. Then i just started turning the key back and forth and it started up so we started to drive on high way 26 toward gresham going about 50mph then it cut power to the motor, tachometer, head lights, and fuel pump but the fan and heater were still going when we pulled over on the exit to boring at about 8 last night. After that it wouldn't start so my dad left to go get are truck and tow dolly. Took him awhile to get back and it still wouldn't start so we loaded it up and went home. When unloading it today about a hour ago it still wouldn't start so we pull it off with a tractor and i rolled down to where i wanted to work on it. First i wanted to see if the lights would come on the dash and they did! Then i tried to start it and it did with codes 11 and 12 even in neutrol which it never let me do before because it only is supposed to start in park(forgot to put it back into park). Also the rpm gauge only works some of the time. What do you think i need to repare or replace or check?

Ignition switch first.

Ignition switch first.

The ignition switch with wires or the one with the key? I have both of them to put on.

Fusible link box.

 

Check the main spade into it and the spades of the links themselves.

 

If OK, then test IG. switch.

Checked fusible links they look ok but i made the connections tighter with a pair of pliers but the gound for the box looked bad so i cleaned it the best i could then bent it with a ice pick to make that connection better. Now the rpm gauge is acting normal and starts idling between 500-750 rpms after it warms up. Its throughing a code 24 so it needs a thermo sensor. Where is that at? There is a inline sensor in the coolant line by the transmssion on the drivers side going to the heater core and the other one is on the heat shield for the trubo/spare tire holder.

hi,

 i think the other reply meant the electrical switch,  it has a couple of little screws that hold it to the lock cylinder portion of the ignition switch,, my comment  is that the connector plug on the electrical part of the switch  that connects the ignition switch to the car harness  ,  i have found several ea81 cars that were melted and overheated to a point that made a bad connection very likely .   the other thing is the connections going into the bottom side of the fusible link box , try and make sure they are cleaned up and all ,   baking soda and water is good for corrosion and a small, sharp tool to scrape inside the connection parts that touch the links connectors.  i've had a bad starter solinoid switch cause the starter to not function intermittantly but didn't cause the lights issues you mentioned.

Its throughing a code 24 so it needs a thermo sensor. Where is that at? There is a inline sensor in the coolant line by the transmssion on the drivers side going to the heater core and the other one is on the heat shield for the trubo/spare tire holder.

 

Coolant temp sensor is on the passenger side of the intake crossover.  2 prong with a connector like the Injectors have, but probably brown/orangish color.

Coolant temp sensor is on the passenger side of the intake crossover.  2 prong with a connector like the Injectors have, but probably brown/orangish color.

I must have one of the first ones made because it doesn't have one on the intake like my other wagon. It has a inline coolant sensor that is in the hose for the heater core right under the engine oil filler where it bends. The wiring is factory that has a bolt on gound and a single connector for the posive. I cleaned up the connections on it but it is still giving me the code to cange it and its been driven 20 miles today. I might get a picture of it tommorrow and hopefully i can find another one.

Edited October 27, 201312 yr by turbosubarubrat

Have you checked the battery terminals? If you're getting nothing at all, the terminals could be slightly loose, and then they can make contact again later.

 

Also, all automatics will start in both Park & Neutral. Otherwise how do you restart a stalled engine when you're still rolling...?

Have you checked the battery terminals? If you're getting nothing at all, the terminals could be slightly loose, and then they can make contact again later.

 

Also, all automatics will start in both Park & Neutral. Otherwise how do you restart a stalled engine when you're still rolling...?

The starting problem is gone now since i cleaned up the main ground for the fuse link box and bolted the box to the car since it was just hanging. It wasn't letting me start it in neutral before for what ever reason (probably a bad contact) but now it does.

Correction it was the positive connection for the fuse link box not a ground(i dont know how i got that mixed up). It was very dark when i was working on it and was the last thing i did to it that night to the car.