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96 Outback quits and then starter won't work


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I have a 96 Outback (daughter-in-law’s car) with a weird electrical problem.  When I start it for the first time everything is fine but after it warms up it just quits. Then the starter does not go on.  It is not like a dead or low battery it just doesn’t turn on.  Dash lights are off except for the warning lights at the bottom and they are dim. Headlights come on fine. When you try starting it the door lock timer on the passenger side kick panel clicks. Last night when I was testing it I had the blower motor on and when I turned the key to off position the blower motor did not turn off. I disconnect the battery and let it set for a few seconds and put it back on then the blower motor is off but the ABS light is on very dim.  If I try starting it again same thing nothing to the starter. The blower motor on again and when turning key to off blower motor stays on.  After letting it set for a while with battery disconnected (don’t want a dead battery) half hour or more everything is back to normal.  It started doing this last week on her and it has only done it when you come to a stop.  I have got it to happen to me twice and it is when I have pulled into the driveway and then went to back out again after turning car off and starting it again.  When it dies it dies no sputtering it is dead.


There is a new battery in the car and I put in a spare alternator that I have in it.  The old alternator was checked out to be good though. I also put in an ECU from another 96 that I have and that made no difference. Just seems like some electrical
component that heats up and doesn’t work, then when cooling down works again. 



 

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I don't see where it could be the starter since the car is running and then it just dies. I could see that it would be the starter if I turned the car off and then tried starting it, but it just dies. I can see there could possibly be a problem with the fuse box. 

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I know on my Saab what you are experiencing with it dying after heating up is commonly a failing a crank position sensor, and it doesn't always throw a code either, but could be many different things.

 

The no-start, no-crank can be a neutral safety switch on manual trans or a range selector on auto trans. I know you can bypass the manual trans easily as it's a simple switch (also cheap to replace) whereas the auto has a sensor that's a little more complex (costs about $50 on rockauto).

Edited by Bushwick
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