whippet

what years of 5mt transmission will fit a 2011 impreza?

Thanks. That is what I thought but the EA81's are harder to find. Find new ones for EA82 but haven't seen any for EA81.

what years of rear axles will fit an 84 brat?

I don't see where it could be the starter since the car is running and then it just dies. I could see that it would be the starter if I turned the car off and then tried starting it, but it just dies. I can see there could possibly be a problem with the fuse box.

I have a 96 Outback (daughter-in-law’s car) with a weird electrical problem. When I start it for the first time everything is fine but after it warms up it just quits. Then the starter does not go on. It is not like a dead or low battery it just doesn’t turn on. Dash lights are off except for the warning lights at the bottom and they are dim. Headlights come on fine. When you try starting it the door lock timer on the passenger side kick panel clicks. Last night when I was testing it I had the blower motor on and when I turned the key to off position the blower motor did not turn off. I disconnect the battery and let it set for a few seconds and put it back on then the blower motor is off but the ABS light is on very dim. If I try starting it again same thing nothing to the starter. The blower motor on again and when turning key to off blower motor stays on. After letting it set for a while with battery disconnected (don’t want a dead battery) half hour or more everything is back to normal. It started doing this last week on her and it has only done it when you come to a stop. I have got it to happen to me twice and it is when I have pulled into the driveway and then went to back out again after turning car off and starting it again. When it dies it dies no sputtering it is dead. There is a new battery in the car and I put in a spare alternator that I have in it. The old alternator was checked out to be good though. I also put in an ECU from another 96 that I have and that made no difference. Just seems like some electrical component that heats up and doesn’t work, then when cooling down works again.

Found why the engine won't turn over, broken piston and bent rod.

Yeah I took the starter out before I pulled the engine. Haven't had a chance to work on it since. Last night had my granddaughter's first birthday so I was at my son's late. Going to take the oil pan off tonight to see if I can see anything.

Thanks for the tips. I didn't think of changing the seal on the tranny So I'll do that before putting another engine in. Thanks again.

I got the engine out without to much of the oil dripping onto the floor. Now the tc is still attached to the flexplate and the engine is not turning over. It turns a few degrees and has a hard thunk in both directions. I pulled the spark plugs and looked through the hole and all I could see was the top of the pistons which didn't look broken, it must be a rod which means new engine.

The oil looked fine. I had been driving this car a month or so ago and it was running good. I was commuting 60 miles a day with it. I comes to an halt when turning engine over by hand. The problem with trying to take the tc off before pulling the engine is that I can't get to the bolts because I can't turn the engine over. I guess that I have to pull the tc with it but that can be messy

My son's wife was driving their 96 outback (2.5 auto) and she pulled into their driveway. She then went into the house to get something. When she came back out to start the car it would not turn over. When checking it out it will turn only a few degrees each direction before hitting something solid. I checked the timing belt and it looked as if it was ok. (seeing that i couldn't turn the engine had to estimate where the timing marks were. Took off the timing belt and released all four cams so no valves are down. Engine still will not turn over. Suspect that a rod or piston broke. problem is that I can pull the engine with the torque converter attached but how do I get it off after pulling the engine since I can't turn the engine to get to the torque converter bolts? Anyone else have any ideas what could be wrong with the engine besides broken rod or piston? Just feaky that she said the car was running fine when pulling into the driveway. She only works a few miles from where they live and she just came home from work to get something.

I think that was part of problem, they put loctite on from the factory. I guess 7 out 8 wasn't too bad. It was late last night so I stopped when I could not get that one out. I'll look at it when I get home from work.

Actually when getting into it there were rivnuts on the inside. So you do not need to take the headline down just pull the end caps off the rack and there are torx bolts holding it down. The roof rack on the gt is different than the rack on my outback. With my luck though one of the 8 torx bolts won't come out because the rivnut is turning so I'm going to have pull the headliner down on that side to get to the rivnut and hold it from turning. I have tried prying the roof rack up and putting pressure on it but it still just turns.

Didn't really want to hear that, but that is what I figured. I need it off to paint the car. It make it much easier to paint the top without it on.

I doubt that the timing belt is causing your ruff idle. There can be a little wobble to the pulley. It is the keyway that is damaged when not tightening pulley. It does not soundl like yours is damaged. Check the timing of the old belt before taking it (if you haven't taken it off yet). If the keyway gets damaged it usually retards the timing to the point it will not idle. Just make sure you get it torqued down so it doesn't come loose.

Just to say how critical installation is. If you don't get it tight enough and it comes loose then dampner pulley can come loose and then wallow out the slot in the crank for the key. When this gets bad enough then the timing is off and your engine will not run worth a crap. At this point the crank is in bad shape and generally needs to be replaced. So make sure that the bolt is torqued.

How do you remove the luggage rack on a 97 legacy gt wagon?

Thanks for that information. I am surprised that my friend didn't know that. I tried it out took the car out and ran it for about 25 miles and did not turn the car off and tested and all monitors were ran. Turned the car off and then tested again and the same four test monitors were blinking again. I only drove the car 2 miles from there home and tested again and all but two were out so that would be good enough to pass. Thanks again.

I have a 96 legacy gt that after replacing head gaskets reset codes. After driving over 200 miles there is no code but there are 4 test monitors that are still running. To pass emissions here you can only have 2 that are still running. I talked with a mechanic friend and he told me that 96's have a problem with the software that it could take a 1000 miles or more to finish running tests. He said that 97 didn't have the problem. I was wondering if there was a software update or could I put in a newer ECU from a 97 or newer.

Found out what was wrong with the car. I tried everything that I could think of. I went and asked a friend who owns a shop. I told him that it would idle but when step on it would drop to 600 and stay there. He then asked me if it had no power on the road and answered that it didn't. He then told me that he knew what was wrong. He told me that the crank pulley had came lose and then destroyed the key way in the crank. He then took me into the back and showed me a Legacy with the same problem. It really wasn't what I wanted to hear. When I tore my daughter-in-law's down the crank was ruined and the sprocket on the crank would turn freely about 5 degrees. Have it out and a spare engine to get ready to put back in. The engine was out of a 5 speed so I have to change the flywheel and put all the parts back on that I took off for this engine. Thanks everyone

The car is a 93 legacy lsi auto awd. It will not rev in neutral or park when idling. If you step on the gas 1/2 down it drops to about 600 and stays there and never revs any higher. If you give it a little gas it will rev. When driving it has no power and will not start going. if you get it moving then give it a little gas then it will eventually get moving. It has no power at all. It has no codes or the CEL is not on. I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the TPS, MAF, ECU, (these came off a running car). Ran it with the exhaust dropped in case had a plugged cat. None of these things made any difference. Checked the fuel pressure and it was ok.

I have something similar happening to my 90. Blower won't be on in Heat or heat defrost mode. When selecting to defrost blower comes on. Also blower will be on in vent air and max air. Then after a while if put to heat it will come on. If left on heat after a while it will start blowing. Also sometimes when on aircondioning it will vent the air out the defrost and heating vents rather than the vents in the dash. This can be a pain legs get cold and the rest of you is hot. I haven't tried to do anything to fix this yet. cjt

My 16 year old daughter does brake jobs not that difficult. She's 17 now but started when she was 16.

I had this happen to my wife's 93. Also along with it the blower fan also went out and the abs light came on. After checking a few things I found that there was no power going into the fuse box. Reseated the plug going into fuse box ad fixed problem. So it could be a fuse that has blown not to allow the brake pedal to release shifter. cjt

It has a good grill. The drivers side tail light is good. I have it off. The passenger seat is not good. Sorry it has taken long to respond to this I have been very busy. I can e-mail you a picture if you want. Send me an e-mail with what interior pieces you may need at cthurnau@comcast.net. cjt