naru Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 That does not mean the MAF is faulty. When you unplug it,computer richens mixture as a safety feature possibly counteracting a vacuum/unmetered air leak. I would monitor the MAF output voltage while moving the flap by hand. Any defects should be obvious, Cleaning flapper style MAFs is not a common procedure. Sometimes,the track wears,There is a fix, Any problem will be easily spotted w/a voltmeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Bah, I had assumed it used a wire. I finally got it off of the car, but which pins do I test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Bah, I had assumed it used a wire. I finally got it off of the car, but which pins do I test? You don`t even need a pinout, Leave it plugged in and use your voltmeter to find the one whose voltage varies.w/moving the flap. Main thing to note is the smoothness of the variation.There should be no sudden wonky spots. Never say never,but,a MAF failure seems unlikely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luvn737s Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 I had similar symptoms with my 98 Forester (different motor, I know). It ended up being valve related. It started throwing EGR codes. Stray exhaust could cause the computer to call for a leaner mixture, I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 Here it is starting and almost idling without the MAF sensor connected. It finally warmed up today so I pulled the kick panel off and looked at what codes the ECM blinked. With the MAF sensor still unplugged it gave me 12 and 14, plugging the MAF sensor back in made 14 go away. 12 says stater switch remains off. This doesn't really help with my symptoms, unlike what 13 would have told me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Still sounds like a vacuum or unmetered air leak to me. As the Auxilary Air Valve warms up it decreases the idle air supply. Unmetered air now makes up a greater percentage of the total air thus leaning the mixture to the point of uncombustibility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 I'll look more into vacuum lines, but so far the intake ductwork looks intact and leak-free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 Alright, we feel kinda stupid now. Turns out the PCV valve had disconnected itself from the intake boot. Now it idles properly and responds a lot better. Thanks everyone for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 ..or not. I went out and started it today and it's idling high with the ECS light lit up (wasn't doing this before.) If I rev it the light goes out. It's still only giving me code 12. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Only code 12 with the engine running and ECS light on? Sounds like it could be an oil pressure switch/actual oil pressure problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 Code 12 with the ignition turned on, engine off. Oil pressure is within the proper range according to the gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 You need to check for codes while the ECS light is on and the engine is running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 It gave me code 33 (Coolant temp sensor abnormal), which we suspected Saturday when it wouldn't idle higher when cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtRat007 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Hello check your air charge temp sensor its back by the transmission a little to the passenger side (on mine anyways) this little gizmo reads air density and adjusts idle mixture upon start up... sounds like this could be your huckleberry. someone also mentioned earlier about the auxiliary air valve which might be part of your problem too.... a little tip on that, if you take a razor blade or knife to the seam on the black plastic part of the valve you can open her up and adjust it by rotating (clockwise i believe) if you do this your car will idle down sooner... being 30 years old my AA valve's little helio spring didnt wanna move as much as it use to so it was constantly idling high till i adjusted it now it starts @ oh about 1200rpm warms up for about 7 minutes and idles right down to a very awesome 800rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtRat007 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 oh and i have a part number around somewhere for a air charge sensor that will work with your stuffs as I believe you might beat your head against the wall trying to find the right one at the parts store Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 (edited) The next step seems to be replacing the coolant temperature sensor. I went out and started it five minutes ago and it idled properly, throwing no code 33. Looks to me like it's intermittently failing and is broken. Edited December 24, 2013 by Ziginox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 A new symptom; sometimes when I push the clutch in at a stop after it idled high when starting it will rev up and down by itself. Also, the oil pressure reads high whenever it has idle issues. When it runs perfectly the oil pressure is where it's supposed to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Oh, I forgot to mention that I did find a vacuum leak due to a loose hose clamp on the bit that goes between the intake and throttle body, and tightening it up cured the leak. However, it's still not running right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprjohn Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Any news on this issue? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziginox Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Yeah, I'm pretty sure I have a vacuum leak to still hunt down. When the engine is cold it will sit at 2250 sometimes, but once it warms up for a while (longer than it would take to drop from cold idle) it will sit at 700. I think it might be a fitting that expands with heat or something, I've just not had time to check, but I might go out there today. I think the oil pressure is just from the temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.