Ziginox

I've had my '86 GL Turbo Coupe (no ground effects, spoiler, only part time D/R 4WD) past 100mph before, but I can't be certain how fast as the speedometer moves sluggishly at those speeds.

Correct, I guess Subaru didn't think it would be a problem to reach across the car and unlock the only other door. Like I said, the law required an (one single) active restraint. Airbags and automatic seatbelts are both active, most manufacturers added automatic seatbelts to existing cars because addings airbags would have been much more difficult. Later vehicles got airbags, which satisfies the requirement for an active restraint.

This is true and is explained in the owner's manual.

Just wanted to point a couple things out- you'll never find power locks on a coupe. Also, either airbags or automatic seatbelts were required by law in the US after 1990. Obviously it was easier to add automatic seatbelts to the Leone platform than it was to add airbags. You should check this thread out. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/15857-chart-of-ea82-changes-throughout-the-years/

So, the story is that my '86 Coupe has been leaking oil and lately it's gotten a lot worse, but I've been unable to do any work on it. Initially I thought it was the driver-side camshaft seal. When adding oil yesterday I found the dreaded white goop on the oil filler cap. The engine is MPFI turbo and I know these have issues with the heads cracking, although mine has third generation heads. However, I think the oil may be leaking from the head gasket now. Any thoughts?

Bump, I really need to get these replaced. Miles, where are you?

I'm having a little bit of trouble figuring out what belts my coupe needs, It has the A/C compressor inboard (to the left of the alternator.) The current belts are Subaru OEM with part numbers of SOA543100 and SOA543102. Also, are there any considerations for replacing the power steering pump?

Hrm, I know one of the tires I was looking at was a proper brand but had bad reviews. Maybe it was something from Toyo

I think I've ended up deciding on the Aspen Touring. I was mainly iffy because I couldn't find any reviews, but turns out the Doral SDL 65A is the same thing, and it has pretty good reviews. As for the Falken Sinceras, I've read bad things about them. The Epic Tours are Primewells, which is one of the reasons I really didn't like them.

Does anyone have a reccomendation for a good 185/70R13 tire? I need to replace the old winter tires on my GL Coupe, but I'm not sure which. Right now I have it narrowed down to Epic Tour A/T or Aspen Touring A/S from Big-O, but I don't like the sound of either one. I'd also like to stay below $400 for mount+balance+alignment, so around $75 per tire max. I will be keeping at least two of the winter tires to put on the front when it gets bad here again. On a side note, what did these come with from the factory?

I literally is harder to turn. If you hooked up an alternator to a bike and put no load, one headlight, and two headlights on it, the pedals would get harder to move with each step up. Remember that inside of an alternator are magnets and a field winding. When the electrons in the field winding have more stuff pushing them back, it makes it harder for the spinning, motor-driven magnet to push them.

Another name used for the coupes is liftback, differentiating it from the EA81 (which was sold alongside for a few years) hatchback.

Were disc brakes on the rear another factory option on the GL Turbo coupes? I noticed earlier that mine has them, as well as the LSD. Also, I love that EG33 swap, it's just pure crazy!

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I have a vacuum leak to still hunt down. When the engine is cold it will sit at 2250 sometimes, but once it warms up for a while (longer than it would take to drop from cold idle) it will sit at 700. I think it might be a fitting that expands with heat or something, I've just not had time to check, but I might go out there today. I think the oil pressure is just from the temperature.

Not sure if the SPFI engines have this, but there is a hose that goes to the PCV attached to the bottom of the intake boot, it comes off easily when opening the filter box and causes some real issues. Also, as for swapping in an EA82T, don't. If you're going to go through the hassle, just drop in an EJ engine. It will have more power stock, plus the EJ engines have a much greater potential for modification. Reliability will also be much enhanced. That being said, the EA82T isn't terrible and completely unreliable, but the EJ engines are much better.

Nice work, much better looking in my opinion than the actual scoops that I've seen on some others.

I think you want this link http://www.roverclassic.com/othercarspictures.asp?id=17

Oh, I forgot to mention that I did find a vacuum leak due to a loose hose clamp on the bit that goes between the intake and throttle body, and tightening it up cured the leak. However, it's still not running right...

I had a friend translate this pic, I couldn't figure out what the air cleaners were until he told me. I think it has to be the strangest option I've ever heard of on a car.

A new symptom; sometimes when I push the clutch in at a stop after it idled high when starting it will rev up and down by itself. Also, the oil pressure reads high whenever it has idle issues. When it runs perfectly the oil pressure is where it's supposed to be.

Check the PCV breather hose on the intake boot, they like to fall off when you open the filter box.

Funny, I was just about to post asking about that. Thanks for the info, Miles.

Look at the light on the ECU (mounted under the steering column, there's a hole on one side with a red LED inside) and note what code it gives you. (Long pulse = tens, short pulse = ones, so three long and three short is 33.) You can sometimes see it if you put the wheel at its highest setting, if not pull off the kick panel and have a look when the engine is running.

The next step seems to be replacing the coolant temperature sensor. I went out and started it five minutes ago and it idled properly, throwing no code 33. Looks to me like it's intermittently failing and is broken.

It gave me code 33 (Coolant temp sensor abnormal), which we suspected Saturday when it wouldn't idle higher when cold.