I need help getting some low cost Horse power for my GL.i work construction and carry my tools in it. What can I do to get some much needed power out of it?

Carbed or FI?

depends on what year of GL,  theres a couple of different styles that had the GL markings.

 

not going to be much out there.  if you have an EA81 or EA82 then your basically going to fall into the "make sure its well maintained" area of performance.  you can open up the exhaust a little and it will help, and try a weber carb if your carberated (won't make "more" power but will make it feel a little snapier).

 

your best bet is an EJ swap, but that will take $500-$1k minimum.  you may be able to reduce that cost with some luck.

 

one of the better mods to help out is to use stiffer springs and forerunner struts in the back.  it will help stiffen the back so it doesn't sag when you load your tools into it.  search it out, I believe its honda accord front springs on forerunner shocks (and cutting  coil or 2 off the springs) 

 

Carbed or FI?

it's carbed

It carbed. And now I'm having problems with it staying on a high idle. It's a 87 gl wagon fwd /4wd. How can I find out which motor I have.

Edited December 28, 201312 yr by Double Life

Weber swap will get you by....

Weber swap will get you by....

 

Why does everyone say this???

 

I've read just as many trouble stories as sucess stories about the webers.

 

You won't get any more power....might lose mileage.  And will cost $$$

 

Buy a $25 reseal kit for the hitachi (DCZ-326) and clean out the emulsions and reseal the airhorns.

 

Less work and $$ and will make a HUGE difference in how smoothly it runs.

 

Won't really yeild more power but will solve the high idle issues if done right.

 

  Best is just to learn to use the RPMS and shift higher.

Why does everyone say this???

 

I've read just as many trouble stories as sucess stories about the webers.

 

You won't get any more power....might lose mileage.  And will cost $$$

 

Buy a $25 reseal kit for the hitachi (DCZ-326) and clean out the emulsions and reseal the airhorns.

 

Less work and $$ and will make a HUGE difference in how smoothly it runs.

 

Won't really yeild more power but will solve the high idle issues if done right.

 

  Best is just to learn to use the RPMS and shift higher.

The reason everyone says it is the weber is much more simple to begin with.  If he goes about rebuilding the hitachi he will still have a 27 year old carb at the end...meaning the wear on the throttle shafts and all.  Its not less work to just pull the hitachi and replace with a weber.  It can be done in a hour or two if you know what your up against.  A hitachi rebuild is not something most on here would want to do however. 

 

With a weber you will get a new carb for right under 400 dollars.  New everything.  They are easy to tune and very simple to rebuild.  I had one on my former coupe and honestly would not have a carbed subaru without a weber.  I went overboard however and used a wideband O2 sensor to tune the carb.  That car would run as smooth as a fuel injected car.  

Edited December 29, 201312 yr by hatchsub

That's why I said it'll get you by. It's not really a "better" carb then the hitachi... but its a new carb, easy to get tuned, and it simplifies the engine bay. It won't get you more power, but it'll get you back to original easier then messing with the original hitachi.

That's why I said it'll get you by. It's not really a "better" carb then the hitachi... but its a new carb, easy to get tuned, and it simplifies the engine bay. It won't get you more power, but it'll get you back to original easier then messing with the original hitachi.

 

Ever done a weber swap???

 

It's alot of work. 

 

WAAAY easier to clean the existing carb and reseal.  I could do it in 45 mins.

One thing that I've seen very often in the Carburated EA82's that I've fixed in Honduras, is that their Craptachi (hitachi) carburator's secondary stage, which is meant to be opened by a vacuum; doesn't work at all... usually due to vacuum issues; and that makes the EA82's even more gutless... and saves Gas!

 

You can easily test if the Secondary is working, but if it is failing to open and you could not afford a Weber Carburator (Which simplifies a lot, while cleaning the engine bay removing lots of the vacuum hoses' spaghetti, plus gives more low end torque and loud boxer rumble noise at deep acceleration) you might consider to convert your actual craptachi carb to a "Mechanical Operated Secondary" more reliable version, by using pliers and a wire; I've done that many times to many Subarus; it works linking the primary to the secondary, so the secondary start to open until the primary reaches the first half, (Just like Webers) as you can see on this very short Video:

 

 

 

 

... use stiffer springs and forerunner struts in the back.  it will help stiffen the back so it doesn't sag when you load your tools into it.  search it out, I believe its honda accord front springs on forerunner shocks (and cutting  coil or 2 off the springs) 

 

About the Suspension mods, Here is the Link, full of info, photos & Details:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/

 

About the Weber Swap, here is the Link to a completely detailed Writeup, plenty of Photos:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82´s/

 

Remember, if your subie need to pass emmissions, the Weber carb could be a Problem.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited December 29, 201312 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Thanks for the info

You're Welcome!

 

Let us Know how things turns on your subie.

 

Good Luck!

 

Kind Regards.

Edited December 29, 201312 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Yes, I did do the swap. It ran awesome, cleaned up the engine bay, made everything much more simple. And only cost me $300ish.