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Strut rod bushings?

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I'm replacing my strut rod bushings, the wheels seem to be pulling back and forward a bit with a hard turn and power, causing a slight rub on the tires when I do that. I need to gain some clearance behind the tires. I'd kind of like to stack some washers on the front side to gain that, seen some do that. I'm unsure what I can get away with and not bind the control arm bushings.

Do you

tighten them just enough to seat the bushings

count threads on the ends and match them side to side

take measurements and correct alignment using these/tie rods

Some or all of the above?

The old SR bushings show about 4 threads past the nut. If I put the new one in the same place, it is just snug. I guess I have about 1/4" to gain with washers, that would fix it. 

TIA

 

 

 

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I've stacked one or 2 washers behind the rubber to push the rod forward a tad and snug up the rubber bushings.

 

There isn't really any adjustment to be made other than that.  As far as how far to tighten it should be all the way until the nut seats on the shoulder of the rod where the threads end.

 

I used performance poly bushings meant for a Super Beetle.  EMPI kit.

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That is a good question I was just thinking myself. I am about to test fit an extra used bushing placed on the control arm side of the strut rod. perhaps there is only room for the washer?

 

One would think it would give it slight positive caster?I know too little about suspension,for now. Thank you

Edited by 81EA81

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Washers work great for getting more life out of bushings, but if you want to move your tire forward for clearance, I'd lengthen the radius rods. Mine are 1 1/4" longer than stock and I clear 31's with no rubbing. It also makes the castor positive, which makes the steering more firm and stay on center. Search the offroad section for details on how to do it, just know it does involve welding.

 

Another option is radius rods from a toyota crown and they are adjustable, unlike the ea82 radius rods. They are hard to come in the states, but its another option.

 

Josh

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Make sure to double sleeve the section where you cut and weld.

 

Even better is to weld in rod, then sleeve....so the whole thing is solid still.

 

I had one completely snap where the single sleeve was over the gap in the cut rod.  That's on a serious wheeler. Street rig would probably not be an issue.

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Washers work great for getting more life out of bushings, but if you want to move your tire forward for clearance, I'd lengthen the radius rods. Mine are 1 1/4" longer than stock and I clear 31's with no rubbing. It also makes the castor positive, which makes the steering more firm and stay on center. Search the offroad section for details on how to do it, just know it does involve welding.

 

Another option is radius rods from a toyota crown and they are adjustable, unlike the ea82 radius rods. They are hard to come in the states, but its another option.

 

Josh

Which Toyota Crown?

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Washers work great for getting more life out of bushings, but if you want to move your tire forward for clearance, I'd lengthen the radius rods. Mine are 1 1/4" longer than stock and I clear 31's with no rubbing. It also makes the castor positive, which makes the steering more firm and stay on center. Search the offroad section for details on how to do it, just know it does involve welding.

 

Another option is radius rods from a toyota crown and they are adjustable, unlike the ea82 radius rods. They are hard to come in the states, but its another option.

 

Josh

 

So how much of that 1 1/4" can you use without binding the control arms? Doesn't that happen at a point?

If I can bump it ~3/8" I think I'll be okay. Think I'll try the washers first, and run the threads out a bit.

This is only up 2" on ~26"s -seems like they should clear w/o cutting flaps or bashing fenders.

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On a similar note, do you guys think the washer trick would work for a side that has slightly out of whack caster? When I had mine aligned, they couldn't correct it on one side try as they might, even by prying the mounting bracket for the leading rod forward with a bigass pry bar. I think it's only out of spec by a degree or so (don't have my alignment papers in front of me atm), and I'm not really noticing  unusual wear on the tire as is or anything after 3000+ miles.

Edited by SmashedGlass

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On a similar note, do you guys think the washer trick would work for a side that has slightly out of whack caster? When I had mine aligned, they couldn't correct it on one side try as they might, even by prying the mounting bracket for the leading rod forward with a bigass pry bar. I think it's only out of spec by a degree or so (don't have my alignment papers in front of me atm), and I'm not really noticing  unusual wear on the tire as is or anything after 3000+ miles.

 

Yes I've done this to address pulling to one side or the other when the toe and rear alignment are correct but still pulling.  Ussually the side it's pulling to needs to be the one pushed forward one or two washers thick.

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What kind of problems have y'all run into with mounting at the crossmember, after lengthening the strut rod?

I spaced mine out with washers (not even a thread left after the nut) and because of that I had to tweak the control arm mounts at the crossmember so the bushings werent all bound up.

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Yeah...mine I did 3/4 inch.

 

And it can be a bitch to get it all bolted toghther, but a prybar and the right sequence and it works.

 

Really in the end it's just not great for the bushings......other than that it works fine.

 

I only do this on my serious wheeler builds.......street car I'd keep it stock shim with 1 or 2 washers where needed for alignment but otherwise I leave em be for a street car.

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