I'm wondering if anyone has new ideas on front camber correction? So there's lengthening the control arms. Completely changing the hubs to 5 stud with camber adjuster bolts. Changing the strut top to adjustable ones...

 

I want to keep it simple, and original 4 stud. I could lengthen the control arms, but when i did that in the past i had to change the knuckles and shafts to EA82 ones, too much stuffing around.. Just want to kick the bottom of the wheels out by 10mm or even less to correct the camber.

 

Maybe just drilling the engine cross member control arm mounts out a bit to gain the track?

The drilling has been done. Can't remember who did it, but it worked well. You can lengthen the control arms without changing ball joints or knuckles. You need 4 of the same control arms. Cut one pair in the same place and cut the other pair so the inboard section is 10mm longer and weld that section to the outboard section of the first pair you cut. Be sure to weld some plates over your weld section for strength. Don't want any future uh-ohs.

I drilled the cross member on my 87 wagon, posts 5, 6 & 11 relate to this:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131364-87-gl-4wd-wagon-czny/

Credit to the originator of the bushing idea. Can't recall the member.

I had thought to use Mazda Miata rear camber bolts & mod the cross member for camber adjustment. The tricky part would be getting the eccentric on line with the lower arm & picking a effective center for the eccentric adjuster. I don't know if this could get you your 10mm.  

The post said drilling made slight decrease in positive camber. So it is still positive? How much?

The post said drilling made slight decrease in positive camber. So it is still positive? How much?

As it is now with stock rate springs, 3" cross member lift & the 4" strut lift, the camber is about 1* positive. With just a little toe-out(.18" or 4.6mm).

 

If done over I would cut up 2 pair of lower arms, overlap an extra length of inner section to make them length needed. Rosette weld the pieces together & add gussets. Then fine tune with the Miata camber bolts.

Edited January 27, 201412 yr by czny

I think I'll go with just drilling out the cross member control arm mountings. Then add some extra plate welded on to prevent it tearing apart. Looks to be the simplest method.