Leebo Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 got this thing apart all except the race. I was gonna start to try to tap it out but noticed the top part of the race has basically welded itself to the bearing housing in the trailing arm. musta got pretty hot I guess haha. am I screwed here? meaning do I need to try to track down a rear trailing arm at a scrap yard. I don't see this thing coming out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 here's a pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 https://www.dropbox.com/s/w6w3q0egwy0vuc4/photo.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 (edited) The biggest problem with that is you'll probably never get a seal to seat properly. It's just going to leak and ruin the new bearing. The race should come out, though. There should be a lock ring on the other side, remove that and it'll tap out. If it really is fused together, you could free it up with a die grinder, but at this point. It really isn't worth wasting a whole lot of time on that. Edited March 2, 2014 by 987687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 i got the lock ring out. it would have been nice to have noticed the melted race before i spent 45 minutes fighting it. so you think i should still at least try to tap it out. im in virginia right now trying to get this thing ready to head back to montana. not many of these lying around scrap yards here. i did find a brand new trailing arm from subaruparts.com for $130 plus a $30 bushing. add on a new wheel bearing to that, plus the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 oh what do should i use to try to tap it, i remember reading some where a hitch ball can be used but i forget what size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I would use the old bearing and a piece of wood/metal against it to drive the race out if I didn't have any other means to do so. Careful use of a die-grinder or Dremel wheel may clean the seal area up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 heres another pic. https://www.dropbox.com/s/qz6ukcfcv2eiopb/Photo%20Mar%2002%2C%204%2035%2045%20PM.jpg ill try tapping it out tomorrow. i just had enough for today. ill hit it with the dremel and see if i can salvage it. might hit it with the dremel a bit before i tap it to try to free that area up. i need a bigger hammer. a trip to harbor freight may be in order. thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 With that higher res pic, it looks like material was added around the seal seating area, leebo is right, with some careful use of a dremel/die grinder you could probably salvage the seat. You can also use JBweld to smooth out the seat and hopefully make the seal, seal. I think if you're patient with that one, you'll be able to fix it and get a lot more life out of it. A hitch ball works, you can also use a hammer as a race driver like this: http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z314/987687/89%20GL/wheel%20bearing/IMG_2832.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Also, one more thought, how is the hub/drum? You'll probably have to replace that because it'll be all scored to hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Man, what did you do to that thing? I dont see any melted race...i see damage to the machined ledge that the race rests against. Were you beating on the ledge, thinking it was part of the race? You're right...it aint going anywhere. That being the case, on my 84 i used a dremel and made two notches in that ledge, 180 degrees apart, to facilitate getting a punch at the race itself. That ledge looks terrible, but i think it'll be fine. I bet a small chisel used carefully, you could peel most of the damaged metal away from the inside diameter of the housing, then touch the rest up with a dremel. As long as there arent any burrs sticking out that will keep the seal from seating all the way, itll be good to go. And if there are some bad scores in the housing where the seal would rest, put some RTV on it, then set the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Use the butt end of a the 36mm socket you used to take off the nut. It should fit nicely into the outer race. Then put a piece of wood or plate over the open end of the socket and hammer that sucka out. Use a dremel to clean up the lip and then use some RTV on teh outer edge of the seal. Let it cure good before assembly and that should hold it in there. The only damage I see is to the area that holds the seal so it should get you back to Montana no problem.....If the seal is shot and it goes bad again, you will be able to get a replacement in MT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 hub seems ok. splines don't seem sharpened and it seems to grab the axle splines fine and this is a gl10 so it has discs in the rear. was gonna keep working today but it's too cold. garge is like a damn ice box. thanks for the tip with the socket gloyale I'll try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 oh and spazomstic I def didn't do this with my hands. I like to think I'm strong (especially when in the heat of battle during a stubborn subie project) but I'm no savage beast. well maybe I am. but it was my negligence which cost me this time. obviously waited too long to get to this job. the inner bearing was basically a lump of grease and bearing parts. the inner race came out pressed on the axle shaft and had to be tapped off with a chisel. I kept having to tighten both rear axle nuts on this car which is why I'm doing both bearings. at some point or over time the extra play was the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Oh ok. Ive just never seen them like that. On mine when a rear bearing decided to check out (and itd been loose for months) it started to howl instead of the usual clunking, and scraping noises around corners, and then it started smoking! Like bad! Parked, let it cool, limped it back to my work and then trailered it home. The outer bearing was pretty much just a cage stirring up the dust that used to be the bearings, and the inner was totally starting to crumble. Yet the races looked fine, and the hub itself was pretty much untouched. And im going to admit, the very first time i ever did rear subaru bearings....I had a BFH and a punch, trying hard as i could to get that ledge to move. It didnt and i finally figured it out. A punch and BFH can do quite a bit of damage! (I blame it on beers, and poor lighting) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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