MuddyThunder Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Hello, I recently acquired a 1988 subaru gl-10 turbo, couple of questions I had were one being do these turbo cars have a "T" on the end of the EA-82 on the motor? because the car definitely a turbo but the short block stamp doesn't have a "T" also i know this next one is a stupid question but I CANNOT find the dipstick or the hole for the dipstick...I may be overlooking it but I have searched hard...but so far that is the only questions I have if I come up with more I will be sure to post them-MuddyThunder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Nope, the blocks are the same as NA EFI, so no need. Only the pistons (and valves depending on the model) are different. The dipstick should be on the front of the motor, just to the left of the crank pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I mean to the left when you're standing in front of the car, its the right side of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I believe the turbo model has a lower compression ratio than the normal engine does. They might use different pistons to achive that but I'm not sure. I suggest you check this out before doing anything with the engine install. You don't want to possibly blow it up after it is installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyThunder Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Thanks wagonist and Cougar, I will have to look hard because I thought it would in the same general location as my NA motor in my other wagon but I couldn't find it...and the motor is installed already I got this car as a project car the only thing so far that I have seen wrong is one being the water pump and two being no alternator...grandma owned it before me so its clean but I will have to get it running and check the compression just to verify...main reason it brought a flag up to me is that I know the newer cars have a "T" on the end as in "EJ22T" but I haven't messed with turbo cars a whole lot and I plan on making this a clean little scoobie...I will be sure to post pictures of before during and after.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Nope, the blocks are the same as NA EFI, so no need. Only the pistons (and valves depending on the model) are different. The dipstick should be on the front of the motor, just to the left of the crank pulley. Actually the MPFI cars, including the turbos......have a slighty different block......vent baffles for the crankcase not just in heads. ...main reason it brought a flag up to me is that I know the newer cars have a "T" on the end as in "EJ22T" Nahhh......The "T" designation is unofficial, and used by the community to easily tell when we are talking Turbo engine or N/A........There aren't any "T"s cast in the stamps on EA or EJ engines. If you find it burns coolant......pull the exhaust off the heads, and look inside the exhaust port for cracks in the wall between the cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Actually the MPFI cars, including the turbos......have a slighty different block......vent baffles for the crankcase not just in heads. Nahhh......The "T" designation is unofficial, and used by the community to easily tell when we are talking Turbo engine or N/A........There aren't any "T"s cast in the stamps on EA or EJ engines. If you find it burns coolant......pull the exhaust off the heads, and look inside the exhaust port for cracks in the wall between the cylinders. I meant the turbos are the same as MPFI EFI, but I keep forgetting about the SPFI engine. Subaru didn't bother bringing that engine to Aus (and rightly so, IMHO ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyThunder Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 one thing i did notice about the exhaust coming off the motor is that it was caked in old oil...I would look into it more but I am waiting for a break in the monsoon going on here...school starts on the 31st so my time to work on it is going to be cut way down...once it dries out I will take some pictures and post them on here...thanks to you guys for the little pointers...one big thing is what is the best bang for your buck waterpump? and since i have never played with turbo's how do I crank the boost up to 10psi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyThunder Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 so i pulled the waterpump yesterday...housing came off in one piece has crack through the center bearings came out and the fins are all in pieces...it barely kissed the block....is it safe to install a new waterpump? ill post pictures of the damage once it gets lighter outside... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 so i pulled the waterpump yesterday...housing came off in one piece has crack through the center bearings came out and the fins are all in pieces...it barely kissed the block....is it safe to install a new waterpump? ill post pictures of the damage once it gets lighter outside... hi , you will need to be sure the new pump is the same back to pulley flange dimention,, these era cars have used 2 different ones, 105mm and 110mm , the measure is from mounting surface to front of pulley flange. a real pain to get done and find the pulleys don't align up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyThunder Posted April 2, 2014 Author Share Posted April 2, 2014 Thanks ruparts, I will have to keep that in mind...I put a battery to her and cranked her and she sounds healthy cranking her over, minus the fact timing is exposed and it doesn't have an alternator hooked up etc. ... and she hasn't been cranked for I think 2-3 years maybe more maybe less Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Studs thru pulley=110mm pump. pulley bolts on =105mm pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyThunder Posted April 2, 2014 Author Share Posted April 2, 2014 well I verified that the car has not ran in 3.5+years...I retimed her...I DID NOT add ANY fuel put my battery in her...and without any hesitation at all...fired right up for me...gotta love Subaru's...but now that I know she runs...parts include but are not limited to...:Water PumpFront Main SealTiming BeltsPlugs & Wires (recommendations? I don't want to go cheap)Air FilterOil & FilterDipstick Tube (IDK where im going to find that)things I want to do are:Straight Pipe...2.5"DP to mid car 3" restwheels & tirestinted windowsScoop (so i can delete the heat sheilding)any more suggestions? thinking also about having the hubs machined for 6 lug.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 rear main seal bit of a pain cos you need to either remove the engine (easiest IMHO) or gearbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyThunder Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 I was thinking that I needed to do that as well...but pulling the motor wont be fun lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Why? remove radiator undo heater hoses unbolt mount (but not the lines) from Aircon compressor & set to the side unplug harnesses undo 4 bolts engine - trans undo 1 bolt for stay rod engine - firewall undo 2 engine mount bolts pull engine easy I'm sure I've forgotten something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I never touch the rear main seal unless its leaking, that goes for all subaru engines. From personal experience, its like playing with fire. The original was installed when the case halves were put together. If you do have to replace it, buy a proper sized driver or use a PVC drain cap of the appropriate size. Be careful to install it at the same exact depth the original was installed too. And good luck on driving it in perfectly even and flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyThunder Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 prepping the motor is easy...I have done it multiple times...but that was with an actual shop with all the amenities lol the turbo definitely has more stuff on it but it is still pretty straight forward...if I do end up having to pull the motor I will do valve cover gaskets as well...but its only a matter of finding a branch on the old oak tree that will hold the motor lol...I can hear the banjo's already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 true. The turbo stuff comes out with the engine. Still reckon the engine is easier to pull than the trans. And I forgot about undoing the air intake, exhaust and power steer lines... Each to their own with the rear main. I had one fall out of a borrowed EA81 engined car on a freeway with no break down lane... Caused it to require a rebuild Much easier to replace at home when you have the tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 ..but its only a matter of finding a branch on the old oak tree that will hold the motor lol...I can hear the banjo's already Haha, locally grown organic engine hoist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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