My Subaru won't start

[Katie]

I have a 2000 Subaru outback.  Had a lot of work done on it last year because it was running badly.  Ran great until the day we went to the mall in December and it wouldn't start.  Hasn't started since.  My husband pulled the starter, alternator, battery.  Alternator was deemed good at Autozone.  So was starter but we replaced that anyway.  Battery was also replaced.  We can hear the fuel pump turn on, so it seems to be working.  Three of the fuel injectors were replaced last year as well as the sparkplugs.   When we turn the key you can hear it turn over, but it does not engage the engine.  
Any one have any ideas as to what might be wrong???

[rain_man_rich]

Hi Katie,

 

Let's start with some basics.  You say the engine turns over but does not start.  Is it turning over fast like it normally does?  Have you checked to see if you have spark?  Have you checked to see if you have fuel? 

[1 Lucky Texan]

possible cap/o-ring problem in the tank.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139928-2003-h6-30l-sudden-engine-stop-no-start-fuel-delivery/?hl=%26quot%3Bfuel+pump%26quot%3B+o-ring&do=findComment&comment=1177730

Edited June 9, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Katie]

I'm sorry... its the starter that turns over, but it never engages the engine.  Its like a whirring sound instead of a... well the engine turning over.  It has fuel, I don't know how to check spark, but I can ask my husband if he tried that.

Cap o-ring in the gas tank?

Edited June 9, 2014 by Katie

[1 Lucky Texan]

I think it may be a good idea to check the timing belt.

Edited June 9, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Fairtax4me]

When you turn the key does it make a smooth whiiiiiirrrrrrrrr sound? Or is it a normal chug-chug-chug sound?

[Katie]

I don't know how to describe this....  It makes a turning sound, but its a smooth soft wheels spinning sound instead of the healthy chug sound of an engine turning over.

[1 Lucky Texan]

does the accessory belt and the acc pulleys turn while cranking the engine?

 

have you considered having the car towed to a shop? might be a flywheel problem. (is the car a manual trans ?)

Edited June 9, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan

[john in KY]

I live just down the road from you in Elkton. Need to verify if the engine cranks/turns  when the starter is engaged. Spark is checked by pulling on of the plug wires at the spark plug, inserting a screwdriver in the wire and holding the screwdriver about 1/4 inch from metal. If you have spark, it will jump and be visible. Also will hear a "cracking" sound. 

[papajam]

Sounds like the starter drive (the pinion to be exact) is not engaging the ring gear (on the flywheel or flexplate depending which gearbox is in the car). Could be the starter or the ring gear is the problem. What were the symptoms that prompted replacing the starter, alternator and battery in the first place?

[1 Lucky Texan]

how many miles on the car and how long since the timing belt was changed?

[Fairtax4me]

Like this?

 

Smooth sound is the sound of no compression which would indicate a broken timing belt. Pull the timing covers and check it.

 

The starter pinion is kicked out by the same plunger that makes the electrical contacts for the starter motor. If the starter is turning, the pinion is engaged.

Edited June 9, 2014 by Fairtax4me

[Katie]

Wow.... haha!  So much that I don't even understand.   I'll try to answer questions.   It has 230,000+ miles, and I've had it since 2006, never changed the timing belt.  

Last year in July it was in the shop because it was running really badly, accelerating slow, dying when I turned corners, missing on acceleration.  They replaced spark plugs, ignition wire set, PCV valve (don't know what that one is), fuel filter, air filter, 3 fuel injectors, knock sensor and the ac condenser fan.  When all that was done it was running great.  Better than it ever has; smooth, very quiet.  There were no symptoms before it just wouldn't start.  Picked it up in August, had no problems until December.  We pulled the starter to see if that was the problem, had it tested at Autozone, they said it was fine.  Thats when we started trying other little things.  Alternator, battery, cables, fuel pump.  We replaced the starter because a brother had had his tested three times and told it was fine, but it ended up being the problem so we thot maybe it was our problem too.  The battery we bought last year at autozone, decided to try that, they said it was bad and replaced it for us.   But again, before it wouldn't start, there were no problems at all.  

We have considered taking it to the shop again, really wanted to try all the things we could do ourselves first tho.  Yes, its a manual.  I'll find out about the belt and pulleys when I figure out what and where they are.   

[1 Lucky Texan]

the schedule for the belt is 105,000 miles, or 105 months. If you bought it used, you may never have known if the belt was changed. You didn't mention the mileage when you acquired it, but even based on the 105 month schedule alone, timing belt is one good suspect.

Edited June 9, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan

[papajam]

My response on the starter was based on the following clue.

...  it does not engage the engine.  
 

 

 

  If the starter is turning, the pinion is engaged.

There are a number of failure modes that can have the armature spin and not engage the pinion. These include a broken pullrod, pivot fork, fork hook, fork pins, pivot bolt/pin, etc. A failed sprag clutch in the starter drive could have the pinion engage and not spin the engine as well (but would sound bloody awful!).

[Fairtax4me]

Right, but the starter was replaced and they still have the same symptom. What are the chances of having the same problem with two different starters?

Probably not the starter.

"Does not engage the engine", in this case, sounds like the engine is just freewheeling because there is no compression.

[mikec03]

I think that we are jumping to conclusions.  The poster may not be able to properly describe the normal cranking of the engine [without starting] so it may have led to unwarrented speculation on the starter.

 

Lets start at the beginning with emphasis on what the poster can do without towing the car to the shop.  If the car is cranking but not starting there are three possibilities:

 

Fuel problem

Electrical problem

Other mechanical [timing belt defective, crank sensor defective, MAF or MAP defective, etc]

 

Fuel problem:  while the sound of the fuel pump running is a good sign that it is not a fuel problem, the unskilled home mechanic can [1] squirt some starter fluid into the intake and try to start the car or [2] disconnect fuel line after the filter and connect the fuel outlet from the filter with a rubber tube taped into a coke bottle and try to start the car to see if any fuel comes into the coke bottle.  I have done both so anyone can do it!  Of course, putting a pressure gauge on the fuel rail would be the best but that is a PITA for the 2000 subaru.

 

Electrical problem:  As noted the "screw driver" trick is an OK way to check if there is spark, but an easier way for the unskilled mechanic is to buy the device made to check this at Autozone.

 

Other problem:  As noted, the poster is way, way overdue to check the timing belt.  Take off the driver side timing belt cover [only a few 10 mm screws] and look at the belt.  The belt should be tight as a drum.  Unfortunately, I think for the 00 subaru, you can't easily take off the passenger side of the cover to check the timing, but that would be the next step.  There are great DIY and Youtubes showing procedure to change the timing belt, the first step of which is to take off the crank pulley and timing belt cover.  With the help of these instructions, even a unskilled mechanic can do it.

 

After all this, if nothing turns up, the next step is to tow the car to the shop or sell it as is on Craiglist.  

[soccer13wv]

Had a similar issue recently with my Forester. This is just a possibility, but it's simple to rule out. There is a little flange on the back of the starter that a connection slides over to allow the engine to start. On your car because it's a manual it's connected to the clutch pedal. If that is not connected then the ECU assumes that clutch pedal is not depressed and will not allow the car to start. On an automatic it's connected to the neutral safety switch on the transmission. It will immobilize the vehicle if not connected. Best of luck.