July 24, 201411 yr In the middle of changing out my timing belt (and idlers, water pump, cam and crank seal, etc.) and pulled the oil pump to loctite the screws and reseal it. Only I can't get one of the screws out and it's started to strip. Tried loosening it with a scewdriver bit in a 1/4" socket after whacking it with a hammer a few times so it seems to be stuck pretty good. If i just loctite the other ones, think this one will be ok? I deburred it as best as possible and its not protruding above the backplate surface. I don't want to mess with extracting it if I don't have to. The car is old and pretty beat up, just trying to get in on the road for some temporary wheels so ultra longevity is not a concern. Hopefully I won't have it longer than another year or two, tops. The screw in question:
July 24, 201411 yr An impact driver is usually what is needed to remove those. I wouldn't worry about it if it isn't loose.
July 24, 201411 yr I like the manual impact driver for screws like this, great for those nasty brake disk screws.
July 24, 201411 yr Author An impact driver is usually what is needed to remove those. I wouldn't worry about it if it isn't loose. That's what I was thinking and hoping to hear. Thanks! I like the manual impact driver for screws like this, great for those nasty brake disk screws. Is there much difference between one of these and just hitting a screwdriver socket bit with a hammer? Might have to pick one up if so.
July 24, 201411 yr The impact driver is made to give it a turning force along with a down force to keep the bit in the screw.
July 24, 201411 yr The sum of the inward force from the hammer plus the turning effort from the ramp inside the impact driver makes a huge difference. You just have to remember to put some 'turn' force into it then smack it with the hammer.
July 25, 201411 yr yes, completely different. impact drivers are awesome. but yeah, ignore that screw. why were you removing it?
July 25, 201411 yr Author Sweet, I'll have to pick one up. Couldn't tell if the impact spun it or not. Got it all back together yesterday and it still ain't running right. Being non-interference there's no way valves or pistons could have been damaged when the idler seized and the belt jumped, right? Hopefully the belt is just off by a tooth (although I checked it like five times) and its not a bad lifter or something else. Look for a new thread by the end of the day if it's not the belt!
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