Hi, question.In your write up (excellent by the way) I noticed where the 5/8 " hose from the pass.side mounts under the airbox, the elbow is right under the filter element.Isn't this blocking the airflow?Or does it work just fine?  Thanks for reply.Tom Cramer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

              

Hi

 

Hi!

 

 

 

... question. In your write up (excellent by the way) ...

 

You mean This one:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/

 

Thank you for your Kind Words.

 

 

 

... I noticed where the 5/8 " hose from the pass. side mounts under the airbox, the elbow is right under the filter element. Isn't this blocking the airflow? Or does it work just fine?  Thanks for reply. Tom Cramer

 

 

Nope!

 

the Elbow is Not under the Filter Element, it is next to it, on the inner side:

 

 

Kind Regards.

The confusion must be due to the angle of the Photo...

 

Let me know if you want a photo with the element on its place.

 

Kind Regards.

I took a Photo of the Metal Base, on the Air Filter Box of my "BumbleBeast"

 

to show you better where goes the two openings, which are intended for:

 

► The one on the Left was added by me, welding with brass a 3/8" nipple;

....that opening is the pressure Relief, which goes to a "T" to the Driver's side Hose.

 

► The one on the Right, is the 5/8" opening, which goes to an Elbow,

....then directly to the Passenger's side Hose, to deliver Fresh, filtered Air.

 

 

 

 

now I see! Thanks.

You're Welcome!   

 

I added that photo to my Writeup as well.

 

Kind Regards.

Hi,I've put the k730 weber kit on my '84 ea81 wagon with a hitachi manifold and the problem is the left front corner of the air box is about 1/16" away from a plug wire coming out of the dizzy.This seems dangerous.Do you agree?I called redline and they say just put a piece of insulation from a romex wire in between.the other problem is the idle speed screw.even when all the way in it is still 1/4" away from the linkage but the linkage isn't hitting anywhere and snaps shut fine.I appreciate you're help.Tom Cramer

... the idle speed screw.even when all the way in it is still 1/4" away from the linkage but the linkage isn't hitting anywhere ...

 

Which Accelerator plate did you used?

 

The one provided with the Weber carb, or the Old one from the Hitchi Carb?

 

in my case, I used the Accelerator plate for the accelerator Cable, from the Old Craptachi Carb.

 

Kind Regards.

I'm about to put this weber carb on my 88 4wd justy with the adapter plates. I might be back with some questions/photos about which hoses can be capped and which ones attach to the weber.

All your Answers, with Photos, are Here:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/

 

Despite that the Writeup is intended for the EA82 and could be applied to the EA81,

 

The Subaru Justy Three cyl engine with Carburator,

 

Shares the same base mount for it, from the EA82.

 

Kind Regards

I'm not seeing the same base mount on the manifold. Where the coolant comes up, there's an inner tube poking up above the mounting level. With it poking up, the gaskets and adapter plates won't sit flat.Here's a photo:

 

http://i.imgur.com/nk8m4jG.jpg

Edited October 17, 201411 yr by bobchees3

Yes, it is Not Exactly identical to the EA82...

 

 

 

 

...but what I meant, is that the four Stud bolts are placed at the same distance and position than the EA82, plus that water jacket should be removed / Closed, also like the EA82; so since I have not worked much on Subaru Justy J12 carburated...

 

 

in Honduras the Carburated is J10, and J12 was an EFi optional...

 

 

 

 

 

...you might want to try the EA82 adapter plate first, before removing that water jacket and closing the water passage, But what I don't know is if the Taller "Trans-Dapt" single plate adaptor I found, will allow enough room to use the Weber Carb with its standard Air Filter, which comes in two different tallness measurements.

 

If the Weber carb fits with the Tall or the short Air Filters and the hood closes without hitting it, then, you can proceed... if not, you might want to try if the Snorkel / EFi cone style, "Remote air filter adapter" for Weber carburetors...

 

 

 

 

...allows enough Room; otherwise you should chose the Redline two-Plate adapter,

 

which is much shorter than the Trans-Dapt one.

 

Kind Regards.

Ended up just cutting the part that was sticking up. Filled the hole and the adapter plates fit fine. Next up, adjusting idle/speed. 

... the adapter plates fit fine....

 

Yes, I knew it.   

 

Which adapter plate you chose,

 

from the two options pictured on the Writeup?

 

Kind Regards.

I went with the two piece weber kit. It came with the carb and has been working ok. 

I'm glad to know that your Weber carburetor retrofitting, went well. 

 

Kind Regards.

Edited November 12, 201510 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Unintentionally, I obtained another Weber carburetor.

 

 

A local elder Gentleman who recently purchased an used but restored 1985 Toyota Hi-Lux pick up truck, with the carbureted 22R engine, was seeking help to get rid from the ricey "pimp my ride" styled add-ons that the car had, such like the noisy "wet fart can" exhaust system, and the noisy intake's induction sound...

 

The Gentleman only wanted to make his ride, elegantly silent; so a friend of mine who substituted the "wet fart can" Exhaust, with a completely new system that included a Resonator and a Muffler; sent the Gentleman with his Toyota, to my place, seeking help with the induction noise, which resulted to be caused by (surprise) a brand new Weber carburetor.

 

It was a new 32/36 "progressive" genuine Weber carburetor, which featured electric Choke and the Fuel cutoff Solenoid, often known as the "Anti-Dieseling" solenoid.

The Gentleman only wanted to have a Quiet 22R and get rid from the shiny looking, small air filter's box from the engine's bay, so we made an agreement, on which I had to obtain an Stock carburetor from a Junk Yard's 22R plus its air filter's box and element; clean and install them on his pick up truck; in exchange, he gives me as payment, the new 32/36 Weber carburetor, complete with the adaptor plate, air filter's box, element, etc... 

 

It was super easy to find good used parts for a 22R locally, the price was Right; so I did it; the next day's afternoon, the Gentleman went driving happy his 22R, and now I have a new, Complete Weber carburetor with Choke and "anti-dieseling" fuel cutoff solenoid.

I wanted another Weber since long ago, because I wanted to do the fitment Tests on the EA82 equipped with Power Steering pump, using the taller adaptor plate, to which I refer on my writeup. 

 

Remember that I had to trim out the Choke from my first Weber, because it hit the back of the Power Steering Pump's reservoir tank when it was installed with the thin, two plate adaptor that came with the K-731 kit from Redline-Weber; and with this new Weber, I could be Sure that the taller, single plate adaptor that I found, is the answer to that problem. 

 

Besides doing the fitting tests, the fact that this Weber is a Decade newer than my first one, plus having choke and an Anti-Dieseling fuel cutoff solenoid, were a good motivation for sure ...  ...

Here you can see my new Weber carburetor, next to my decade old one:

 

A view from four angles, of the New Weber:

 

Despite that my Weberized EA82 engine, ran without the Fuel Return line Hooked for a Decade without any issues, I decided to remove the straight fuel inlet fitting from the Weber carb, and place there the Y shaped fuel inlet fitting from my old craptachi carb, which has an Straight 5/16 inlet, and also an smaller 3/16 return line built in; in order to reconnect the closed Return line to the fuel tank; with the idea of helping the Weber's Float to do easier its Job, also it helps the Fuel Pump. The thread's size and pitch are equal between the Weber and the craptachi Carburetors.
 

► Edited to Center the image

Edited November 12, 201510 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

I used a couple of turns of P.T.F.E. (Teflon) Tape, on the fitting's thread, to avoid fuel leakage, the Hitachi carb's Y Fitting must be screwed Carefully to the Weber carb's base, otherwise, the weber's Base could break: Be Careful to not overtight it! 

I Updated the information on my writeup regarding the Weber carburetor's swap.

 

Also, I added eleven new photographs with explanations and arrows on them. 

By the way, there is a "built-in" fuel filter on these Webers, look at the green arrow pointing at it on the Photo I posted above; the fuel filter is hiding underneath the big screw Head, located under the part where the fuel comes into the Carburetor.

 

Not all people is aware of the existence of such Fuel Filter there, and it needs to be Cleansed during the normal carburetor cleanup procedures.

 

Kind Regards.