Ok, I have done a fair bit of digging on this one and first off, we are dealing with a 1994 Series 1 L Wagon in Cranberry that has been upgraded with a 94 LSi Rear Sway bar.  She is also row your own with 224K on the clock.

 

The commute is from Benton CA to Walker CA ... Daily (Oh I know all of you would love this commute, it is quite demanding in places)  Nasty Altitude changes.  I do cross 8100 + Feet as a routine and can dip down as low as 4000 ft and go as high as 11,000 depending on route.

 

The question.  Who the hell sells slotted only rotors?  I do not mind popping a few extra bucks. 

 

But all I can find is drilled or drilled and slotted.  IN my case with the weight of the car (3100 no driver 1/2 tank of fuel... I have a scale along my commute at each stop.  *Transfer stations*)  I am leery of drilled because of abuse, cracking, less surface area, ect. 

 

I would rather buy a really good blank and send it off with my machinist friend at the local AFB and have him give me three slots for,  the wipe of the pad I want, so I have a good bite point. If there are no just slotted rotors out in wild blue yonder..  Granted this car does not get driven in the snow much.  Rule is, snow at home, take Stella (87 DL in Poverty spec with SR 5 cog)  So I do not feel bad about dropping on good stuff.

 

Why slots or drills, well I am that fine line between track and hard daily driving.  I want that reassuring bite.  Trust me I have been bedding in brakes for a long time, she needs some wiping power.

 

YES I would love larger stuff, but I am sort of unwilling to give up my 14 inch GT wheels.

 

Another question, Can I slap the turbo vented in the rump roast with out changing anything else?  Some say yes, some say no.  How bout a bunch of yes's so I do not have to second guess then need a bracket or some such.

 

Last and final, large one.  Up here at high altitude.  I could use some more OOMPH, and have been doing quite a bit of research into Frankenmotor  ..In Particular the EJ25D with EJ22E duel port heads and a set of Delta's (Lazy driver, give me torque)

 

How is the detonation with Premium California Cat Piss at High Altitude.  I run Shell Mid in my stock meticulously maintained EJ22E and she returns 25.9 to 28.1 depending on AC and speed with out much detonation less it is hot outside.  (Over 90 out and I might get a ping and knock back of timing every once in a while on goosing it below 2K.)

 

Has anyone boxed there rear longitudinal rear?  I mean it is flimsy and here ever time I look at it (Body at front to front of rear rear hub.)  I go insubstantial.  It is just upturned C channel asking for a monkey with a floor jack.  (Not the rods from diff housing to hub this is F to R body to hub)

 

 

YES she is getting pulled from rotation at 230,000 and parts I have so far are...

 

Bearings W/ seals for hubs.

Breaded  Lines

Swaybar Upgrade rear.

Bushings for everything but lateral links.  Rubber not poly, sorry.

KYB GR2 Struts

Strut Bearings all round

Bellows, bumpstops and Rack boots

Rack Rods w Tie Rod end.

Repack axles since I am in there and I have a itty bitty spitter from a stone on the passenger side inner.

 

So now it is just.. what do I do about getting a better bite for better transition of weight at either Wild Rose or down the 6 into Benton crossing.  Brakes folks.

 

Tidbits.

2 Owner car.. Never in a accident.

Clutch and major serivce at 200,000 miles  (12/13) with a gearbox.  (Roll off in first folks, I inherited the launched gearbox from the family from San Diego)

TB WP Tensioners, Thermostat W housing and all hoses, plugs..

I have a alignment rack.. she is razor straight.

I commute nasty roads.

 

I am shooting for half a million on this one before I pull her from rotation. 

 

Hey, good alignment set ups so I do not grind the outside edges because of sudden transitions?

Edited September 6, 201411 yr by Peerson

ATE used to have slotted only rotors for these.

Vented rear rotors will need bracket and caliper to match, but the brackets are interchangable between many models so should fit.

Mix with EBC RedStuff pads for good cold bite and high fade resistance.

 

Trailing arms are tougher than they look, and there's a reason they aren't fully boxed. Those are designed to bend in an accident to avoid damage to the frame of the car.

 

Detonation is much less of a concern at higher altitude. Lean A/F mixture causes detonation. Less air at high altitude means less detonation.

 

Franken-motor with Delta Cams will need a tune to make it run right at low RPMs. Either one by itself (Frankie w/ no cams, or cams in current engine) will not require tuning.

I have read of people purposely bending, OR cutting part of and bending their dust shield to scoop more air towards their brakes.?

 

Check into StopTech Street Performance pads too. Not crazy expensive, great cold bite, higher MOT than Hawk.

 

Stoptech also has a cryo-treated slotted rotor I think?