I sure hope there is someone out there that can help me with this question. I have a ’97 Legacy wagon (L) with 4 wheel disc brakes. I thought it’d be fun to change the rotors and pads…as this is my only car…to get some better performance and just to keep up with the preventative maintenance. It seems that ever since then the front brakes squeal pretty good…all the time. They are constantly dragging. I just spent a good $50 on new pins and anti-rattle clips and installed everything with a generous dab of anti-seize lubricant. I really need some help here…as none of this helped my situation at all.

 

Can anyone offer any advice? Thanks,

Is it both front wheels or just one? If it is both you may have some bad pads, I have a 97 Legacy L. wagon also (right hand drive) for use on rural mail route I have found the semi metallic pads that Auto Zone sells for around $20.00 dollars work well.

You may also got a bad rotor, I put some new ones on mine one time and one of them was warped from the start. Find the one that is squealing the worst and put the old rotor back on if it still does it then it is pads, if it stops then it is rotor.

I had installed new pads on turned rotors all the way around on my '98 OBW more than a year ago as well to find that the pads I used were not quality (started squealing less than 3 months later). So, when I replaced the not-so-good pads I replaced them with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads ($39 US) and they are fabulous! I highly recommend Wagner ThermoQuiet (not paid to say that BTW).

what pads did you get?

 

Jamie

The pads I purchased were Raybestos i believe. They were pretty pricey at around $46 or so. From what I can tell...and after a few days of driving since my first post, the hardware kit (clips and pins) seems to have largely helped the dragging issue. And if a cheaper set of pads (or the ThermoQuiet) will help...that will be my next step.

Not sure if it's both sides...but will have to further troubleshoot.

 

Thanks for the help,

I once put Raybestos brake shoes on the back of an 83 Malibu when they got warm they squealed so bad I removed them and have never bought anymore. I think the Albany pads at Auto Zone are Bendix but dont know that for a fact. I do know they are just as good as I have used both many times.

Well,

I've just installed some 'silver' pads form AutoZone. And...the squeel less...but still make a lot of noise. I'm out of cash to play with this for now. I'll probably have to buy new calipers at somepoint and start over.

Thanks for your help.

Ahessler

I have never used the silver pads. I use the semi metallic made by Albany from Auto Zone. Did you put some anti squeal (grease or spray) on back of pads?

Yep.

Sorry, it was Advanced Auto.

I put the anti-seize on the pads.

It seems like they just stick in the anti-rattle clips and won't release from the rotor. Very frustrating.

My new big thing is getting a master window switch.

Thanks,

Andy

Try pushing out the lock pin bushing (sleeve) and see if it is worn or out-of-round. My right hand caliper was sticking and I replaced the bushing----- works fine now.

I had installed new pads on turned rotors all the way around on my '98 OBW more than a year ago as well to find that the pads I used were not quality (started squealing less than 3 months later). So, when I replaced the not-so-good pads I replaced them with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads ($39 US) and they are fabulous! I highly recommend Wagner ThermoQuiet (not paid to say that BTW).

I just got finished doing some searches on the thermoquiet pads and the manufacturer's claim (Federal-Mogul) is that the construction technique used, eliminates the need for the normal "anti-squeal" shims. Interesting concept. Question: When you put these in your Sube, did you include the factory shims, or did you leave them out?

 

I'm kinda interested in trying these, but I'm wondering what to do with the shims. I've got two, a thin stainless-steel one, and a thicker mild steel one with a rubber coating. I'd be afraid that leaving them out asks the piston to extend appreciably further.

Try pushing out the lock pin bushing (sleeve) and see if it is worn or out-of-round. My right hand caliper was sticking and I replaced the bushing----- works fine now.

What bushing are you referring to?

What bushing are you referring to?

It's the bushing that the lock pin bolt slides through. It is inside the dust boot on the bottom of the caliper and needs to be greased often. The caliper "floats" in and out on this bushing and sometimes gets stuck if it is worn. Just greasing the lock pin itself is not enough. If you have a Haynes Manual, an exploded view of caliper components is on page 9-5.

 

:->

OK. thanks for the bushing tiip... Now I recently discovered that the squealing on my brakes did not occur when braking while in reverse. I did this many times and the squealing seems to have disappeared??? Beats me.

No additional shims came with mine. I coated the back of each pad with anti-squeal spray (it's red and very sticky) and that was it. I am very pleased with the Thermo-Quiets (they're quiet, smooth, grabby etc.). Every car is a little different, but I highly recommend them.

brake job. When I recently did my Forester I used every thing I could think of to keep it quiet. New rotors,Ozzie 4wd pads, grease, making sure there was no corrosion and the pins were free, spray anti squeal, and shims.

If I had known about the Thermo-quiets I would have used them too. The result is a good quiet brake job, but it was kind of belt and braces.

Thanks Tim and Cookie. The corrosion thing is a sore spot with me. Auto manufacturers ignored the obvious body-metal and exhaust rot issue for decades and they seriously need to quit pretending that it's not happening to brakes as well.

 

It's like way past time that manufacturers begin to incorporate corrosion resitant materials on disk brake assemblies. It really sucks that after two winters, noticable corrosion has begun, and after 4 winters, irreversable damage is well underway. Anyone that drives on salted roads knows what I'm talking about.

 

I got three Michigan winters on my OBS and the brakes are rusting away, and the heat-shields are all rotting off. Sounds like a hunk-O-crap going down the road.

Glad I could help.

my car had one cross country trip and lived in DC for while and got a little salt, plus I lie a half mile from the Bay which gives me a bit more.

While I don't have a lot of rust just the fact that I have some means that east coast and Midwest folks must have a lot.

My shims were rusty and had to go and the entire area needed all rust removed. I painted all my bits black which will help to resist corrosion around here.

SNIP

east coast and Midwest folks must have a lot.

SNIP

[ /QUOTE]

 

It doesn't help that the city of Detroit is built over a friggin' salt mine!

Man that's really working against you.

Just tried brake grease for the first time today. Boy is that a miracle fix for what I thought was everything from bad rotors to demonic posssession. Squeal no more.