Why did the automatic EA81's come with a different ignition system? which is better? Why the change? All I see that is different is the module(split in two pieces), and some other minor parts for the advance parts.

 

Alex

I think you are noticing the different brands of distributors rather than a difference between the auto vs. manual. In fact the 2WD's had a different distibutor than the 4WD's..... I can't tell you why. But it is a very good question. The advance curves are the same according to the FSM's I've read, so I really don't know why they would have done that. The NipponDenso unit is found on the 2WD, and the Hitachi unit is found on the 4WD's. The Hitachi unit seems to be better able to handle wear. The shafts in both units tend to wear over time, and eventually will result in a "jumpy" tach. But the Hitachi design can handle a lot more play in the shaft before the "jumping" starts. The ND will start to jump with just a little play in the shaft. My ND from my wagon (formely a 2WD) became astonishingly jumpy within only a couple hundred miles after reaching 150k on the odo. I've seen Hitachi's with over 200k that were just barely startin to jump, and they had a LOT more play in the shaft than my ND had when I had it rebushed. The ND went from working perfect, to almost undriveable in the space of 200 miles, but I have seen Hitachi's that were "jumpy" for years.

 

GD

Tach jumping? Im not familiar with that. I know im at ~209k. I have the ND 100291-0080 distributer. Im guessing thats the NipponDenso. I know I had a jumpy speedo cable for 7 years before it broke.

So is a new distributer in need, or can they be "rebuilt"? What do you all suggest, New? Rebuilt?

The tach will fluctuate, while the engine seems to run normally. That's what I mean by jumping. On mine, the tach would start to vibrate (you could actually hear it, and feel it if you put your hand on the disty), and the engine would idle along, but the tach read 7,000 RPM's

 

New really isn't an option, as I think even the dealership only sells rebuilt units. I personally had mine rebuilt by these guys:

 

www.philbingroup.com

 

They are local for me, and will do a rebush (this will correct the jumping), for about $35 if you dissasemble the disty for them. It's more like $50 if they have to do it. They can also rebuild the vac advance canistor if your rubber is shot. I had a rebush and the vac can rebuilt. It cost a total of $55, and I've driven it 15k miles since then and no problems.

 

You can also get rebuilt units from CCR for like $150 or so I think. Email them and ask about your options. They are by far the cheapest for rebuilt units that I could find.

 

GD

so GD, know where I migth be able to get a vacuum advance canister? I need one..

Philbin can rebuild the one you have. They put new rubber in them. As for finding one - junk yard I guess.

 

GD